Is the wear ring concrentic around the crank snout?

Are there no slingers or deflectors behind the snout to keep the oil off the belt?

I am sure my front seal from Cummins has the installer to set the depth, we know if the rear main seal is not set properly, it will leak like the Exxon Valdez.

Jim

 

After the second time I would probably drill and safety wire all the critical bolts on and under the timing cover.
Jim

 

I think they're equivalent. Just High Performance RTV. I'm really not all that impressed with 5699 after using some. Actually a bit variable in color and consistency coming out of the tube.

Yes. Seems nice and smooth, just barely can feel it.

Just the back of the HB. I think between the seal leak, the cover leak near the IP, and a serious power steering leak caused a buildup of oil and rubber in the sheeves over time.

Both the repair seal from Cummins, and the standard seal from Dodge came with the install guide or sleeve only. No depth gauge. I have one from the Victor seal I installed last year.

I think a little LocTite blue and a little pay some **** attention will do.

I got the cover on, aligned, and tightened down. Spent considerable time cleaning up the mess in the front of the engine compartment. Still have to take the radiator to the car wash and pressure wash it.

I couldn't find any 12 x 1.25 x 120 mm bolts in town. Going to plan B.

BTW, for future reference as I will have the tools by the time I'm done with this bruhaha to easily install a seal blindfolded and with little space. How does one get a seal removed without removing the cover?

 

So far today I've gotten totally frustrated trying to get the Dodge seal to go into the cover. Tapped for awhile. Made a home made driver and it wouldn't go straight. Seemed to at last and I put a little force on it and wrecked the seal.

Then I grabbed the repair sleeve out of the Cummins seal and drove it on with little effort. Just drove it on cold with a piece of plate, 3/4" center hole and two 1/2" holes to match the HB bolts. It drove right on alternating between the bolts turning one flat at a time.

Tried to start the Cummins seal and ran into the same problem. I wonder if I should freeze it before I try to tap it in. Once I get it started in the hole, I have a home made driver that will put it home with ease.

If I have to take the cover off again, the die grinder is coming out and there's going to be about a .015" starting taper when I get done. This is stupid. The hole has square edges.

 

freezing seal will shrink it a little, I did like you said, radiused the entry, and I use a thick steel plate backing to lay the cover on, using a seal driver, patient frame of mind, luck, pita is in.