Every now and then when I go to start the truck it fires right up but the radio, tach (factory wires) and wipers don't work for a few seconds. Eventually they all come back at once.

I've been looking through the schematics but can't find any commonality between those components. Am I missing something? There may be other things not working along with them and I just haven't discovered them yet. Almost want to think it's the key switch (replaced several years ago) but that shouldn't control the tach should it? I'll jiggle it or turn it off & back on next time to see.

Only happens at start up, mostly when cold and lasts less than 10 seconds although this morning it was almost a minute or so. Otherwise it works fine the rest of the time.

Thanks

 

Could be a key switch but I would guess a relay on your drivers inner fender. The mostly when cold part points me that direction. Here we have to select relays that have low operating temps or they won't work. Also when relays get weak they won't work in the cold

 

KRB, have you already gotten rid of the fuse-links and replaced with something better ??

A little experiment to perform = turn ON the key WITHOUT cranking/starting the engine.

1. The offending accessories initially don't work, right ??

2. Do they then power up after a minute or so ??

3. If they remain without power, but upon starting the engine, then go ahead and power up, then the shaking/vibrating created by the engine is causing the loose connection to make contact.


First, I would investigate the fuse-block where you will probably find all sorts of melted stuff.

But, in your case, I sort of suspect the fuse-links.

Or possibly a weak connection within the bulk-head connector.

I cannot fathom any relay having anything to do with your situation on a factory-wired system.

If you need assistance, somebody to hold a light or whatever, you know where to find me.

 

Well hello old friend. I had given you up for dead!

This is such an intermittent problem and the truck is only driven occasionally, that I keep forgetting to pay attention instead of just jumping in and bumping the key. I do remember that burping it or revving doesn't make it come back on. It just seems to do it on its own accord.

With winter approaching and if it's as wacky as the summer was I'm thinking I may need the steed more often.

I've replaced only one of the fusible links so far. I'll check that bulkhead connection - good to do anyway.

Plus I'll pay close attention upon starting AND see what other things don't work. Key on, engine off and then once started etc. Need to drive it today so I'll report back. The other day it did just fine...

Good to hear from you, take care.

 

So just call me Mr. Obvious. It happened again yesterday. I jiggled the key ring and it all came back on. Did it again this morning and same result. Why didn't I think to do that in the first place?

The switch is only a couple years old. Hate the thought of diving back in there to R&R that again. Wish I could find a good one that I could key like the door locks.

 

It's only a half hour job to switch a ignition out? Are you by chance using a big heavy key chain or lots of keys? Have more then a light key chain hanging from your ignition key?

 

Getting the heater on relays will take a big load off the ignition switch.

 

I agree with j_martin. I also found improvement from "tweaking" the individual connectors in the main plug at the ignition switch for a firmer connection, or bite on the terminal, if you will. As a matter of fact I had a truck doing exactly as you describe, and I deemed the factory connector "plum worn out". I performed this mod:



And the problem was solved.

 

Yea, why I dread is having to re-do a job when I have a list of other stuff that needs fixing too. I hate having to revisit a problem when other problems need my attention.

I only have the two truck keys and a leather fob hanging there.

I replaced the original because things flat out quit working, not just intermittently. Not sure if I kept it or not but I'd say if it was the connections, the new one would have behaved the same way?

 

If you replace half an overheated connector, sometimes it'll work for awhile. When you change out a power component. If the connectors are discolored from overheat, replace the mating part at the same time.

Put Jim's heater relay mod in, and you'll take about 15 amps off that switch.

 

Not to take anything away from Jim's excellent blower relay modification, a fifteen-minute method to take the blower away from the key-switch circuit is to simply re-route it's power feed to always HOT.

When I discovered the blower circuit on the wife's truck was one big melted glob in the fuse-block, not having time nor resources at that immediate moment to do otherwise, I clipped the wires free of the fuse-block, spliced on a new wire, and routed it to the always HOT stud I had already installed just for such occasions.

The blower became quite a bit stronger; how much of that new force is attributed to the direct connection and how much simply from removing it from that melted mess is anyone's guess.

It has been thus for several years and she has yet to say anything negative about having to make certain the blower is OFF when the truck is OFF. (we are all in the habit of always turning OFF all accessories before shutting OFF the engine anyway; I just despise to turn ON a key and have wipers, blowers, and blasting radios come ON)

Do the same for the power-windows and you will thank me every time you use them; it is miraculous how much quicker they run up and down when wired direct to HOT; plus, they will work even when the keys are a hundred miles away.




It is also a good idea to route the key-ON=HOT wire of the fuse-block through a big constant-duty solenoid; thus, all the key signal does is trigger the solenoid.

 

Getting worse so now I need to do something about it. Now the wipers turn off when I hit the turn signal.

Several years ago my switch broke and the key just spun around in there with nothing happening. I fixed that but can't remember what all I did. It looks like the key switch is separate from the actual ignition switch contraption thing right? I'll check my connections first but trying to verify that the ignition "lock" is separate from the ignition switch or box right? I think I just replaced the lock last time I was in there.

I can't find a sticky on it.

 

After the coffee kicked in my memory came back (got up this morning to lay outside with my youngest at 2:30 to watch for the comets which we never saw...).

I found my old key lock and instructions.

My connections all look good. Since jiggling the switch recompletes the connection I'm suspecting it is the "new" key lock or it's ability to connect to the actual switch box itself (where it slides into).

I'll play around and see what happens.