electrical issue...
electrical issue...
My stereo keeps cutting out and shutting off, then coming back on. Sometimes it resets itself completely (like the clock and date resets, and I lose ALL my previous settings). Also, sometimes my signals don't work. And the buzzer for my door/light/key in ignition doesn't work anymore, at all. I think it's possible all 3 are related. They all started around the same time. And it's getting worse. I don't want to start digging at things blindly. It's cold and I'd like to minimize my time exposed to it. And I wanna get this resolved, the stereo cutting out in the middle of a song is starting to p**s me off
. I like my music, and I don't like it one bit when things go wrong with it.
Anyone have any helpful starting points? or had a similar issue?
Also, almost every time it does this is right when I let off the throttle, or sitting at a stop light, when the truck is idling.
Thanks.
. I like my music, and I don't like it one bit when things go wrong with it.Anyone have any helpful starting points? or had a similar issue?
Also, almost every time it does this is right when I let off the throttle, or sitting at a stop light, when the truck is idling.
Thanks.
if your using the factory ground for your radio then run a new one and youll probably be fine. mine always did that when i hit rail road tracks by my house so i put my ground circut fault light on it and went over the tracks and it showed the ground was shakey
Check the grounds on the gold irridite plate attached to the steel dash support frame, just to the right of the pedal assembly.
Also check the ground out on the core support, near the battery.
Also check the fusible links under the hood, near the hood hinge, although I'm thinking it's more of a ground issue.
Mark.
Also check the ground out on the core support, near the battery.
Also check the fusible links under the hood, near the hood hinge, although I'm thinking it's more of a ground issue.
Mark.
yeah, I'm using the factory radio ground IIRC. I'll go over those grounds and see what I come up with.
Mark, are you talking about that little tiny wire that grounds on the core support right next to the battery?
I'll check the fusible links as well. I was thinking a ground issue as well. So that's what I'll start with.
Hey come on now!
I won't say, but I bet it's the kind of music you're implying with your post
Mark, are you talking about that little tiny wire that grounds on the core support right next to the battery?
I'll check the fusible links as well. I was thinking a ground issue as well. So that's what I'll start with.
I won't say, but I bet it's the kind of music you're implying with your post
Step back and look at the whole of the GROUNDING system on a Dodge and you'll see that the larger ground cable on the battery is attached to the engine which, if you look very closely, is mostly isolated by the engine isolators and transmission mount.
Sure, theoretically the driveshaft(s) complete a heavy ground to the axle via spring mounting, but when you consider that grease in the U-joints is not a good or consistant conductor, plus the bushings in the springs, it becomes clear that there isn't a 100% stable ground there, either.
Other than that "little wire" there is no real body ground that is directly connected.
The ground behind the head is a dependant ground, meaning it relies on the ground at the core support, which transfers through the fenders and cab structure to achieve it's connection.
This ground runs many of the engine compartment components.
This is why you'll sometimes see an extra ground to the voltage regulator on pre-'92 trucks.
Mark.
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That "little tiny" wire is usually the ONLY direct ground to the cab.
Step back and look at the whole of the GROUNDING system on a Dodge and you'll see that the larger ground cable on the battery is attached to the engine which, if you look very closely, is mostly isolated by the engine isolators and transmission mount.
Sure, theoretically the driveshaft(s) complete a heavy ground to the axle via spring mounting, but when you consider that grease in the U-joints is not a good or consistant conductor, plus the bushings in the springs, it becomes clear that there isn't a 100% stable ground there, either.
Other than that "little wire" there is no real body ground that is directly connected.
The ground behind the head is a dependant ground, meaning it relies on the ground at the core support, which transfers through the fenders and cab structure to achieve it's connection.
This ground runs many of the engine compartment components.
This is why you'll sometimes see an extra ground to the voltage regulator on pre-'92 trucks.
Mark.
Step back and look at the whole of the GROUNDING system on a Dodge and you'll see that the larger ground cable on the battery is attached to the engine which, if you look very closely, is mostly isolated by the engine isolators and transmission mount.
Sure, theoretically the driveshaft(s) complete a heavy ground to the axle via spring mounting, but when you consider that grease in the U-joints is not a good or consistant conductor, plus the bushings in the springs, it becomes clear that there isn't a 100% stable ground there, either.
Other than that "little wire" there is no real body ground that is directly connected.
The ground behind the head is a dependant ground, meaning it relies on the ground at the core support, which transfers through the fenders and cab structure to achieve it's connection.
This ground runs many of the engine compartment components.
This is why you'll sometimes see an extra ground to the voltage regulator on pre-'92 trucks.
Mark.
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