What all is involved in putting a new window in the driver's door? Mine shattered the other night when I slammed the door trying to get the flippin motor to roll it up.

 

pull panel, access windwing screws top front rail and down door, remove rubber trim seal across glass, carefully release regulator bolts holding glass, slide regulator rollers off track, pull out glass.

 

What he said, and it is a lot easier with an assistant...Mark

 

Let me know where you get your glass. I've been looking.

 

When ever I slammed a door, my mom made me open and close it 10 times quietly.

Don,'t forget the origional problem, with the window motor,

Check the drivers side switches, wiring where it bends. If it is intermittent the brushes could be worn.

Does the motor make any sounds?

 

If you align your doors properly, then you won't have to slam the doors any longer...that is if the hinges aren't worn out...

The only time I have an issue with my doors not closing very easily is when I'm inside and the windows are closed. If I open a window, then close the door, the air pressurization issue doesn't happen and the door closes like normal. I've spent so much time on my doors that they close like a brand new truck, with little effort at all. It just takes patients, hand tools, and a lot of opening and closing the door.

The door window glass is available through rock auto for about $90 each, although there are a few boneyards around here that have a few gassers which would work. Last time I had the doors apart, it took about 45 minutes to pull the glass and put it back in. I think it takes a little longer if you lubricate the window regulators, locks, and other mechanical parts in there if you need to.

 

I put new bushings in my hinges about 2 years ago and they went bad again already. I have to lift as I pull to shut the door easily.

When it's warm the window goes up and down fine, if it gets to about 60-65 or below it starts acting up.

I didn't see any screws in the track.

 

You probably need to remove the window regulator then clean and re-grease the pivots and arms including the big gear,

Check to see if the counterbalance spring is broken, the motor can lift the window with a broken spring but it takes everything it has got to do so.

Old crusty grease or the lack of gets real stiff in the cold parts of the neighborhood.

Once you get it opened up you should see where parts are rubbing without and grease.

Jim

 

I called out local glass place- $180 installed. Now to think about whether the headache is worth $100 to avoid or not. Think I might put new motor and regulator in, see what I find.

After I put a new slave cylinder in the Amigo- hopefully tomorrow night.

 

no screws on track, when regulator is released, you can free the lower rollers sliding it off, there should be a couple screws holding the windwing outboard at the front door rail, your releasing the w-wing to free the glass in the track so youll be able to move it around to clear the lift track

 

Why not do it yourself ?

Mark basically gave you the instructions here to get it apart.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ht=wing+window


And he has pictures so you're less likely to get

 

If I break it, I buy a new one, and it looks like one of those project where I could end up doing that. If they break it, they buy another new one.

 

Well, then I'll never ask you to hand a mirror for me....

 

Handling glass doesn't bother me. Having to line stuff up and get it into the right place with 24 year old steel around it is what bothers me.

They had it done and fixed a windshield chip in about an hour. Installation was only $40 so I don't really see any advantage to doing it myself.

The motor was easy to change once I got the holes in the door. They are nasty looking but did the job.

Should I put any kind of grease on the regulator gear?

The reman motor works but isn't the best (very slow rolling up) so I will have to call NAPA to get another one ordered. The one I pulled is original (1989 built date printed on it) so I figure the goody's been got out of it, may see if a shop can clean it up and replace the contacts. It was pretty nasty inside.

Think I better look into a new door. Got to looking closer and found several more cracks than I thought it had while working on it.

 

Yes, you should clean and apply a light weight grease to the gears and oil all of the pivot points,

I use Turbine Oil not WD-40, I get it from my local HVAC supplier,
I think Home Depot sells it in the summer time for the evaporative cooler motors.

http://www.johnstonesupply.com/store...ep?pID=G84-620

I also use this to lube the hood hinge pivots and door hinge pins.

Jim