Door Structure Upgrade... Thanks Wheelieking !
05-06-2012, 09:50 PM
#31
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I like stacks!!!! dont have them but would like to. Not the great big ones but about 4 or 5in. Its my truck and I dont care what he thinks. Im entitled to my opinion as is he. NUFF SAID
05-07-2012, 01:38 AM
#33
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I think my door has gotten worse since I got the truck. Rolled the window clear up tonight and WOW! did it flex.
05-12-2012, 07:18 PM
#34
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I AM going to do this mod, and do it with my good old Coffin AC/DC stick welder!
05-12-2012, 07:22 PM
#35
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I beg to differ with your sig. The three most-feared words in college football are "Roll Tide Roll!"!
If I could I would post his emails here for you to read, I would but the fact is he just flat out lost his mind and almost got banned on another forum because of his actions there as well. Had he contacted ANY Admin it would have gotten back to me and we could have worked it out.....but he went nuts instead.
You know you can't put the horse back in the barn if you burn the barn to the ground the moment you find the horse is missing.... He tried to call me last night after closing time but it was too late by then....like I said he went too far BEFORE giving me a chance to even deal with the problem.....
You know you can't put the horse back in the barn if you burn the barn to the ground the moment you find the horse is missing.... He tried to call me last night after closing time but it was too late by then....like I said he went too far BEFORE giving me a chance to even deal with the problem.....
05-12-2012, 09:01 PM
#36
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hey i didn't have time to weld in the bar yet so i just placed sound deader material the 1/8 inch type that's for floors over the whole door in side panel and cut around the door handle worked very well in fact it was quiet and less shake for the whole door ....
05-17-2012, 09:18 PM
#37
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Find someone with a MIG welder and give it a try. It's really pretty easy if you can stick weld already. If you are having trouble laying down a good bead, try moving the gun toward the puddle instead of away from it.
05-18-2012, 02:28 PM
#38
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Did the mod on driver's door using 1/2" tubing. Great improvement! Tacked using my stick welder and took it by the trade school to get the beads mig'd.
As for me migging, I can't get past the psychological block of not seeing the flame. I've done stick, gas and TIG for fifty years, but not MIG!
Also replaced door and window weatherstripping and made door armrest out of wood. Door has a good solid pull now and closes with a thunk. Window goes up and down more quickly than my Audi's windows!
As for me migging, I can't get past the psychological block of not seeing the flame. I've done stick, gas and TIG for fifty years, but not MIG!
Also replaced door and window weatherstripping and made door armrest out of wood. Door has a good solid pull now and closes with a thunk. Window goes up and down more quickly than my Audi's windows!
05-19-2012, 11:25 AM
#40
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There are oval plastic caps one two inches above the floor another behind the curve of the dash pop those off 5/8 socket and go nuts
A screw driver will pop them out they are pressure fit
A screw driver will pop them out they are pressure fit
05-19-2012, 03:36 PM
#43
I was working in the garage and had the radio on but was running the compressor as well so couldn't really hear it too well BUT I think I heard them say Mountaineers play the Tide then
Shall we put a 6 pack on it?
05-19-2012, 05:03 PM
#44
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Are you sure it's the upper, and not the lower ? The upper usually doesn't need much tweaking.
The dash bezel has to be removed..... and I think you can access the upper bolts.... although I don't know anyone who has needed to.... but I'm sure it's been done.
Usually it's the lower hinge that's the real culprit.
What's your door doing that requires the upper hinge to be messed with ? Pix would help.
05-19-2012, 06:21 PM
#45
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The dash mounting bracket is slap in the way of the upper bolts. Can't get my articulated 3/8" ratchet with 5/8" extended socket on those bolts! Do I have to rip the dash out to adjust the doors?
