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Door lock actuators

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Old 01-28-2019, 09:48 PM
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Door lock actuators

So for anybody that's interested, I've been working on electrical gremlins and in the process made a junkyard run. I pulled the door wiring harnesses and door lock actuators out of a 90 D150, only to realize when I got home they were a completely different style. So I tore into mine. Drilled out the rivets, took the whole rusted up motor apart, soaked in vinegar and salt to clean up the rust and corrosion on the copper. Soaked in baking soda water to neutralize the salt and vinegar, and reassembled. Works like a charm. The passenger side was another story. Pulled the housing apart, but when I tried to disassemble the motor, the housing was so rusted it crumbled in my hands. So after many 4 letter words I set about trying to figure out a way to get a new motor. In the process I walked thru my garage and saw my junkyard actuators laying on the floor. I picked one up and noticed the brackets were somewhat the same style and size as my old actuators. Stuck it in the door, bolted it on, hooked up the rod, and bam, I have a door lock. The harness is different so I will have to cut and solder the new harness into what I have to make it work. But the part number is 55154502 for the right and 55154503 for the left.

https://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p/Dodge__/SOLENOID--Lock--SOLENOID--Lock---Left-1991-93--Left/6760840/55256805.html

A link to which vehicles these actuators came on. Now these are also no longer available but the options in the junkyard are greatly expanded. I can only speak for what I've found but mine were a bolt in swap except for the wire connector. You have to get the rod with the new actuator as the rod lengths are different. Hopefully this helps somebody.

New actuator

New actuator

New actuator different connector

Old actuator

Old actuator double spade connector
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N. Besonderes (01-30-2019)
Old 01-28-2019, 10:08 PM
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I don't remember which is which but I have one of each on my truck. I think one has the connector built into the body of the actuator instead of on a pigtail. I had to just use the female single pin connector for each pin and then filled the cavity with RTV. With the correct rod it works fine.

I think my truck had been in a flood so everything from about halfway down on the doors had been soaked and was corroded beyond repair. Only one window motor still worked but the regulator had a tooth missing.

Edwin
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