does an opened air box really help?
does an opened air box really help?
Well, its winter, work is slow and im broke, but im still itching to do something to my truck. Will opening the stock air box do anything? Bad in the heat? Pros,cons, or just not worth it with stock turbo? I guess im just bored, rained 2.5 inches today, penned up in the house.
open it up
Mma,
Yes Opening Your Airbox Up Will Improve Air Flow A Lot. I Swiss Cheesed Mine, But Than Removed In All Together And Just Let The K&n Sit There. I Have Now Moved On To A Bhaf. Its Woth The Time, Witch Ever Route You Go. Either Way You Will Improve Your Airflow.
Bob
Yes Opening Your Airbox Up Will Improve Air Flow A Lot. I Swiss Cheesed Mine, But Than Removed In All Together And Just Let The K&n Sit There. I Have Now Moved On To A Bhaf. Its Woth The Time, Witch Ever Route You Go. Either Way You Will Improve Your Airflow.
Bob
Same here took the whole air box out leaving the K&N sit there, Now i can here the TURBO working
Everything that I have read on the subject suggests that an open air element without a housing is not helpful. If you can open your box up, and plumb it to openings in the front of your truck, it will be better.
An open element draws too much hot air from the engine compartment.
An open element draws too much hot air from the engine compartment.
leper is correct we spent the most time and money on the air box we tested everything we did over the road and have proof of what worked and did not, letting the hot under hood air get to the filter just lost you 10%motor efficiency , keep running that K&N and cummins will love you , they will get to sell you a new engine
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calr48, are you saying not to use a K&N since air flows easier through a paper filter, and to leave stock air box factory form? A diesel shop said they don't like K&N's 'cause they don't breath as well. I've heard this and that the oiled K&N can contribute bits of oil to the intake turbine fins which then might collect dirt particles and shorten the life of that whizzing Turbo . . .
Cold air is thicker than hot air. 
Our engines work by heating air, expanding it against the piston. Our engines make more power with the turbo stuffing even more air in.
Our engines are most efficient using 100% cold air once the engine is up to normal operating temperature.
If you're on a tight budget, consider the following .. . . .
The stock/OEM air filter box has a small snout that conducts 100% outdoor air into the filter box. It connects the bottom front of the box to a small opening below the passenger's headlight. While the snout does provide all the air the engine gets, it's primary design is to act as a muffler, keeping the air intake noise to a minimum.
OK, fine . .. .
Remove the OEM air filter box and remove the OEM intake muffler. Where it connects to the front of the truck, cut that hole much bigger so that you can fashion some thin sheet metal such that when reinstalled, you have a big funnel feeding much more 100% cold air into the OEM filter box.
Like this . . .. .

Works like a champ using the OEM box and plumbing less the muffler.
Hope this helps.
Judging by the oily mess on that box, it's obvious I over-oiled my K&N.

Our engines work by heating air, expanding it against the piston. Our engines make more power with the turbo stuffing even more air in.
Our engines are most efficient using 100% cold air once the engine is up to normal operating temperature.
If you're on a tight budget, consider the following .. . . .
The stock/OEM air filter box has a small snout that conducts 100% outdoor air into the filter box. It connects the bottom front of the box to a small opening below the passenger's headlight. While the snout does provide all the air the engine gets, it's primary design is to act as a muffler, keeping the air intake noise to a minimum.
OK, fine . .. .
Remove the OEM air filter box and remove the OEM intake muffler. Where it connects to the front of the truck, cut that hole much bigger so that you can fashion some thin sheet metal such that when reinstalled, you have a big funnel feeding much more 100% cold air into the OEM filter box.
Like this . . .. .

Works like a champ using the OEM box and plumbing less the muffler.

Hope this helps.

Judging by the oily mess on that box, it's obvious I over-oiled my K&N.
cummins tested the air filters and issued a warning that K&N did not filter the air good enough to protect there engines, before we read the report we allready damaged one in our fleet it only took it 75,000 miles to ruin it . call cummins they will confirm, most K&N's you can hold up to the light and the filter will pass light every where
I confer on the K&N- you're just as well of with window screen material. I had 2 of them (one from K&N, even) and they both let in dirt and dust. I could write my name in the intake hose after 3K mi or so. I went with paper for a long time, til I came across an AFE ProGard7, and it seems to filter as well as the paper.
In Colorado, with my ex's 6.9 NA Ford, it filtered just fine.
Daniel
In Colorado, with my ex's 6.9 NA Ford, it filtered just fine.
Daniel
What BC847 said is the way to go on a budget. It gets stupid hot under the hood. Any way to duct cold air and ONLY cold air to the filter is the way to go. Plus, other than a little sheetmetal, it's a free mod
IMO, the stock filter with additional ducting, a-la BC847, will easily support 275 RWHP...
IMO, the stock filter with additional ducting, a-la BC847, will easily support 275 RWHP...
I was thinking the ducting route, just opening the existing hole larger, so everyone universally seems to agree the K&N lets dirt in, what is a high flow alternative? BHAF? I don't really want to go back to stock, there is a considerable difference in acceleration with the K&N.
I swiss cheesed my airbox but I duct tape the holes in summer for the cooler air. I have no intercooler so I imagine the increased heat would be very bad in the summer. The K&N is okay but you must rotate it and reoil it or pores open which can let super fine dust in. Once I followed K&N's instructions and was shocked at the result. Anytime I change oil or any major service, I check the K&N and give it a turn and some fresh oil. It has worked great ever since. If you don't like to do that kind of servicing, go with another filter. I don't think I would buy another K&N but having one and knowing it's quirks I see no reason to spend bucks for an unneeded replacement. I would like to get a BHAF sometime but have to get around to building a cold air box.


