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Dana 70 rear drum and Max problem.

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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 10:30 AM
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Mad Max accident! Dana drum needed.

Hey gang:

I am in need of a Dana 70 (3:53 gears) passenger side drum and possible axel (I will not know until I take it apart.)

How do I measure the drum?

I believe there are different drums for my 92?

If no one has one, where would I buy one?

How much do you think one would cost?

It is with a heavy heart that I tell you the following story.


The story (there is always one):

Something was hit on the Interstate (at around 70) causing a monster blow out thus causing the rim and tire to shear off all eight lugs. A 7,500 pound rated 60/40 tandem trailer with a 1979 VW Diesel Dasher (sitting on top) was being pulled behind at the time of impact.

Quite the fireworks display coming from the drum grinding on the asphalt for about ¾ of a mile!

The backing plate is fine (go figure.)

The aluminum service bed however, is a twisted, ripped pile of scrap metal at this point. Maybe is could be cobbled back together, but I doubt it. The passenger side of the utility bed is about 1” off the vehicle frame. Since the trailer was on the truck (and weighing down the truck a bit) the tire and rim acted like a very heavy pin-ball knocking and ripping everything it hit on the way out. Without the trailer, it may have just shot out the side and that would have been that! It hit so hard underneath that the opposing toolbox doors (drivers side) are bowed!

I was quite sad to see the overall damage to Max when it was towed 3-hours back to my home.

As soon as wife-a-roni shows me how to post pictures, I will.

Be prepared to shed a tear for me, it ain’t pretty!

For what it’s worth, Max took care of his occupants without jack-knifing or losing control thus becoming an ICBM on the thruway!

All occupants were fine (thank God), just a little white knuckled and butt puckered is all!!!!!!!

Now the fun part……Insurance Company games (BS)…….

The fun never stops!

Slate

Last edited by slatemd; Mar 25, 2012 at 10:59 AM. Reason: wrong title
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 11:27 AM
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Brake drums are available at your local auto parts store; NAPA, Carquest, etc, and online at rockauto.com

I'd venture to say something else failed that caused the tire failure. In my last 45 years of driving I never have heard of all 8 lugs shearing off from a tire failure.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 11:36 AM
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You can get a new drum at pretty much any autoparts store. The drums are the same for SRW & DRW trucks.

Bendix PDR0264 on RockAuto is just under $60.

Glad to hear you are okay.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Trebor
Brake drums are available at your local auto parts store; NAPA, Carquest, etc, and online at rockauto.com

I'd venture to say something else failed that caused the tire failure. In my last 45 years of driving I never have heard of all 8 lugs shearing off from a tire failure.
Funny you should mention that: I had all the tires changed 6-months ago. Maybe the lugs were torqued down too much thus stretching the studs a bit. A safety inspection was performed on the truck, trailer, and load at a rest stop just prior to the accident.

The State Police said that there was a report of a similar blow out an hour before mine at the same general location.

They were going to inspect the road after they left the accident scene (better late than never, I guess.)

It felt as though the tire went into a huge pothole before everything went bad (real fast.)

The truck was not over-weighted and the trailer load was positioned correctly without excessive tongue weight. Your guess is as good as mine.

Thanks for your input one and all.

Slate
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 12:29 PM
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What ? No pix ???


The reason I don't let others do work on my vehicles, is because there are few shops that "torque" lug nuts, on any vehicle. Costco is one of the few, as their procedures require not only torquing to factory spec, but to have a second person in their team, retorque the previous guys torqued nuts. This was developed because of overtorquing and under torquing that occurred in the past.

1/2 " nuts are torqued to 100 ft lbs on my truck.


Glad to hear no one was hurt. Your drums are the standard 12" drums and you should probably upgrade to the 3" shoes if you haven't already. I also changed my wheel cylinders to the larger size avail .... 1 1/8", i believe.

Do you have stock steelies or aftermarket rims ? The stock rims are hub-centric, as they fit perfectly on the hub, which helps support the rim on the truck should the rim expectantly move off of center. Aftermarket rims sometimes miss this, and it's critical the rims are torqued to the rim manufactures spec for the vehicle, and re- checked after 50 miles, then on occasion again.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Alec
The drums are the same for SRW & DRW trucks.
Not the case. DRW trucks have 3" wide shoes requiring a 12" x 3" drum as well as a 1 1/8" wheel cylinder as NJTman mentioned. SRW trucks have 2.5" shoes requiring a 12" x 2.5" drum and a wheel cylinder that is smaller than the 1 1/8" used in DRW trucks. You can, however, upgrade a SRW truck from 2.5" shoes to 3" shoes if someone wanted to. If new drums are in order, you may as well get the larger of the 2 available.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 12:55 PM
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Thanks for the info fellas.

Pics will come as soon as Momma can get to them NJT!

Hold your horses big fella.........:-)

After market Centerline rims are on the truck.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 01:11 PM
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Originally Posted by jimbo486
Not the case. DRW trucks have 3" wide shoes requiring a 12" x 3" drum as well as a 1 1/8" wheel cylinder as NJTman mentioned. SRW trucks have 2.5" shoes requiring a 12" x 2.5" drum and a wheel cylinder that is smaller than the 1 1/8" used in DRW trucks. You can, however, upgrade a SRW truck from 2.5" shoes to 3" shoes if someone wanted to. If new drums are in order, you may as well get the larger of the 2 available.
The drum is the same, unless you have the 1/2 ton truck, which has the 11" brakes. I didn't change the drum when I upgraded. There was just simply and "unused" portion of the drum braking surface inside the drum that naturally gets used when you change to the larger shoe. Didn't make much sense to me to keep the smaller shoe & WC since I was in there anyway.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 01:18 PM
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Originally Posted by slatemd
Thanks for the info fellas.

Pics will come as soon as Momma can get to them NJT!

Hold your horses big fella.........:-)

After market Centerline rims are on the truck.

Aluminum rims are especially known for loosening up if not torqued properly.. Lots of threads here where guys lost a rim, and mangled their rotor or drum, and sheared off studs in the process.

Mark from Arizona is just one of many. Bad part is that some guy was driving behind him and stole the rim before he could retrieve it. Must have been passing through from NY or NJ..

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ght=lost+wheel

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ght=lost+wheel

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ght=lost+wheel

Aluminum wheels need periodic re-torquing....... otherwise you wind up with what happened to you.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by NJTman
The drum is the same.
I stand corrected. You're right. I seem to forget that.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 01:37 PM
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From: The Big Apple
A case of "sometimers" Jim?

Don't worry, I get that too from time to time. Trying to figure out photos now with the bride....
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 01:48 PM
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Here they are:


What happens when a heavy tire and rim hits aluminum @ 70mph......CRUNCH....RIP.....TEAR........!

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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 01:49 PM
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From: The Big Apple
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Note that the axle housing is level and the bed is not.....Ahhhhhhh crap!
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 01:53 PM
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From: The Big Apple
Can you say "flat spot"?

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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 01:54 PM
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From: The Big Apple
A little bed separation.

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