Good. I'll make sure to get before and after shots of the clearance. Right now I can slip a dollar bill through the gap, but it looks like they're touching. I know they've got to be mashing against each other every time I make a turn or give it throttle.

Otherwise, everything is going well. I got the Dynamic Timing Kit in and finished the writeup.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d-t318397.html

Man, what a difference! I didn't think many more cheap mods would impress me after the 366 spring install, but I've got to say that this one surprised me.

 

Here's the "clearance" that the oil pan had with the crossmember:



...and y'all were right; the proper mounts are definitely thicker (and have a larger surface area where the plates contact the mounts and crossmember).



I got the engine up and the old mounts removed but after getting the passenger side mount back in without a problem, I've hit a snag (quite literally) on the driver's side. The bolt that holds the bracket in won't come out because it's being stopped by the PS pump. Sooooo...



I reckon I'll unbolt the plate from the block itself and rotate it so the bolt falls out of the bracket. Then I'll run the bolt in from the other side so it can be removed without causing me grief in the future.

 

I bet your installing that front sway bar right now.
It should fit much better with the bigger diesel engine mounts.

Quick thinking with installing the engine mount bolts in the other way to make any future mounts changes easier.

 

Lol, yeah. It's in. The distance between the crossmember and the oil pan now gives me a warm, fuzzy feeling inside. Here's the new space (the discrepancy was so great between the Ramcharger mounts and the proper Cummins mounts that none of the intercooler tubing would line back up; everything had to be loosened and readjusted):



And I have a sneaking suspicion that small block Chrysler motor mounts aren't rated for the torque a 6BT Cummins engine puts on them.