Jim Lane has pix of his Pod Holder, which is a triple that mounts on the top center of his dash..... well, I guess, slightly offset to the drivers side.

I like the way it looks, but I cheaped out and bought a 3-n-1 gauge and mounted it in front of my speedo. No need to know how fast I'm going, as I'm an old man now, and SLOW is so cooooooool.

Jim's looks like this, I think


http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/Unive...-Dome-Lip.aspx

 

Or modify one of these.
http://www.genosgarage.com/DASH-MOUN.../#.U7AUXGdOXWM


only has 3 holes though

 

I tried one of those but it just doesn't fit very well even after sanding/grinding. You're welcome to it if you want to give it a try.

I just like the look of the frog-eye type pods better I guess. I have a two holer but really need a three. picked up a 4 but it has no base which kinda makes it useless...

 

Still trying to figure out what I want to do with these gauges. I'll probably take the message center out and put three of them there.

Otherwise, I used a bathroom scale to measure how much pressure it took to move the 2nd gen lift pump piston to full draw. Hardly scientific, I know, but I figured I might get a roundabout spring rate. It came out to 38lbs. I'm going off of memory here, but I thought those lift pumps had 27lb springs in them. I chalked it up to my method being pretty fuzzy.

...then I pulled it apart and found this:



That black spring at the bottom of the photo is the factory 2nd gen spring. Since removing coils from a spring increases the rate, it made perfect sense that it would read too high on the scale. I started to wonder if my method wasn't at least in the ball park.

The shiny new spring above the broken spring is the low pressure piston pump spring. I didn't have to end up paying the $50 for one because a friend happened to have one laying around and was feeling charitable, I reckon. After checking the piston and bore for damage that the broken spring may have caused and finding it in excellent condition, I cleaned the housing out, dropped the piston back in and installed the new spring. Since the new part is from a low pressure agricultural unit, I know it's supposed to be at about 12lbs. Back to the bathroom scale, just for poos and laughs...

12.1 lbs. I'm feeling pretty good about it, so tomorrow, after I get the lift pump spacer cut off of the 2nd gen fuel heater, I'll throw this beast in and let everybody know what kind of post-filter pressure readings I'm getting.

 

People are dropping parts off faster than I can put them in. Ugh.

Today a buddy came by and dropped off a set of DDP stage 1 sticks for free. I hear they're not much better than stock (DDP claims 50rwhp, but you know how that goes), so I'll try 'em out and see. I still haven't had a chance to fab a place for my gauges or get the spacer for the lift pump. Maybe I'll be able to get that stuff done in the next day or two.

Anybody have any experience with the little DDP injectors?

 

...they're in but the truck runs real rough. Numbers 5 and 6 have teeny tiny little bubbles coming from the injector collar, so it's got to come back apart.

Some people claim that there's an injector to blame, but I know it's my own damned fault.

 

Now that's funny.

 

I kept having stumbling issues with the injectors so I put the stockers back in. I took a couple over to David and he pop tested them. They were right where they needed to be at around 120 bar and had good spray patterns. We've pretty much come to the conclusion that skipping the "take it out on the road, put it under load and blow some smoke" procedure is what did me in. It's probably better since I'm finding myself skipping things I should be doing first.

I did get a 366 spring in yesterday and got that thrown in last night along with a couple of turns on the full power screw. Huge difference. I'm sitting here wondering why I didn't do that first.

Also, since I'm still trying to piece the necessary fittings together to tie in the HVLP lift pump I've got, I figured I'd go ahead today and install the fuel pressure gauge so I can get a good baseline before I make the swap. As you can see, my factory diaphragm LP is holding just under 5psi at idle. It sits directly over the tick mark for 5 psi under normal driving conditions and I can drag it down to 3psi at WOT.



I have to make a 1400 mile round trip tomorrow night in this thing and pull a 20ft deck boat for half of it. I really don't want to do it with less than 5psi of fuel pressure, so I think I'll make time in the morning to get the new LP in.

 

Mine reads about 9 at idle and doesn't drop much under load.

 

On the factory diaphragm LP!?

 

The lift pump will not be getting done today. I crawled under there to case the joint before the job and found this:



So,the lesson for today, especially when putting a Cummins in a Ramcharger, is that just because it fits, doesn't mean it's right. The 318 motor mounts are not suitable for the swap. The one pictured above was in excellent condition when the diesel engine was installed. There was no twisting or binding, I've done no wheeling, racing or launches under boost. These things just can't handle the torque.

 

I have seen oil pan to crossmember issues arise from using the small block engine mounts, on 12V swaps, as I believe they are thinner as well.

 

Interesting. The pan does look too close to the crossmember to me. That would also explain the serious lack of clearance preventing me from running the factory front sway bar. Thanks for the info.

 

A pair of motor mounts are on the way (Anchor p/n: 2710) and will be here in the morning. I decided on these after reading this thread: https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t158399p2.html

Thanks, Mark!

I still need something to do today, so I think I'll go ahead and throw this stuff in:



I'll take pictures and do sort of a mini write-up on the installation. Since my static timing is in the factory position and I haven't tampered with the wiring to the KSB, everything should jive properly and the spacer should fulfill its intended purpose. I'll let y'all know how it goes when it's in.

 

Your new diesel motor mounts will take care of that.
I saw one crew cab swap where the oil pan was ON the crossmember due to re-using squashed out '76 360 engine mounts.