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Cummins Ramcharger Build Thread

Old Jun 27, 2014 | 12:36 PM
  #31  
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Very nice!
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Old Jun 27, 2014 | 02:18 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by the.beard
Just a little update. Scored some 16x10 wheels and a set of 285s that are in better shape than mine (not a high bar to clear, I admit) on CL for a cool hundo. Even with the used tires, they all balanced out with under 3 ounces of weight, so I threw 'em on there, checked my steering range... no rubbing or hitting the springs or fenders! WOOT! They ride nice and smooth and look way better than the old steelies, imo.

Before:



After:



You'll notice I also pulled the safari rack. The wind noise was ridiculous and I never used it. I think it even looks better without it.
Yep looks good.
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Old Jun 27, 2014 | 03:23 PM
  #33  
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Body roll is a bit of an issue with Ramchargers; at least it has been with the several that I've owned. The factory sway bar from this truck won't clear the Cummins oil pan, so a buddy of mine who works at John Deere scored a few pieces of bar stock and made some spacers. They'll go between the frame and the bushings, effectively clearing the oil pan and stopping some roll.

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Once the sway bar itself is cleaned up and epoxy coated, I'll snap a photo of the setup so the results can be duplicated by anybody who might happen to come across a gas sway bar and wants to put it in their front end.

I was talking to BC847 the other day and we were discussing my plans for the suspension and he says "hold that thought" and walks off. A few seconds later he comes back and hands me a rear sway bar that matches the front in diameter. Now I can clean this one up and throw it in, too. Thanks again, David!

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Again, when it's in, I'll get a picture or two of how it settles in there.
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Old Jun 27, 2014 | 03:45 PM
  #34  
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Very cool build, well done!!

I feel like I was being lazy on my 4wd conversion on my crewcab...you guys seem to get done so much faster....
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Old Jun 27, 2014 | 03:50 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by thrashingcows
Very cool build, well done!!

I feel like I was being lazy on my 4wd conversion on my crewcab...you guys seem to get done so much faster....
I wouldn't feel too lazy if I were you. Wheels and sway bars don't even compare to a 4wd conversion in time, money or difficulty. Plus, I'm crazy motivated since this is a daily driver. Otherwise I have to drive an AWD Hemi Durango that gets 14mpg going downhill being pushed by gale force winds.
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Old Jun 27, 2014 | 05:46 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by thrashingcows
Very cool build, well done!!

I feel like I was being lazy on my 4wd conversion on my crewcab...you guys seem to get done so much faster....
This from a guy that lays on his back in the snow installing a transmission in a truck that isn't going anywhere soon. Now that makes me look lazy.
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Old Jun 27, 2014 | 06:05 PM
  #37  
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From: Prince George, BC
Originally Posted by the.beard
I wouldn't feel too lazy if I were you. Wheels and sway bars don't even compare to a 4wd conversion in time, money or difficulty. Plus, I'm crazy motivated since this is a daily driver. Otherwise I have to drive an AWD Hemi Durango that gets 14mpg going downhill being pushed by gale force winds.
Thanks...but still an impressive turnaround!

Originally Posted by mknittle
This from a guy that lays on his back in the snow installing a transmission in a truck that isn't going anywhere soon. Now that makes me look lazy.
Stop your going to make me blush........
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Old Jun 27, 2014 | 06:54 PM
  #38  
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My front sway bar spacers aren't thick enough and the bar still kisses the oil pan.

I got that old "measure twice, cut once" idiom backwards again!
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Old Jun 27, 2014 | 08:07 PM
  #39  
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Very nice build. I finished the 4bt conversion in my 77 RC last Summer. It's been driving great since. Good job.
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Old Jun 27, 2014 | 09:38 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by J10Mike
Very nice build. I finished the 4bt conversion in my 77 RC last Summer. It's been driving great since. Good job.
I reeeeeeally wanted one of the late-70s or 1980 grille. I'm not very confident I'd be able to clear the intercooler, though, and since I like the '91-'93 grille just fine, I decided it wasn't really worth the extra downtime my truck would have suffered to find a way to cut a perfectly good and increasingly rare aluminum grille to make it fit, if it's even feasible.

Yours looks killer, though. I've looked through your site a few times How's that 4BT for power?
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Old Jun 27, 2014 | 11:28 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by the.beard
I reeeeeeally wanted one of the late-70s or 1980 grille. I'm not very confident I'd be able to clear the intercooler, though, and since I like the '91-'93 grille just fine, I decided it wasn't really worth the extra downtime my truck would have suffered to find a way to cut a perfectly good and increasingly rare aluminum grille to make it fit, if it's even feasible.

Yours looks killer, though. I've looked through your site a few times How's that 4BT for power?
Well, at the moment, it's not going to win any races. I need to swap in the 366 spring in the VE pump, and turn the pump up a little. That should increase performance a bit. I already have the 366 spring. Just haven't done that upgrade yet.
Also looking to pull the H1C turbo for the HX30. I understand the performance of the HX30 is much better than the H1C.
As for putting a 70s grill on your rig, it won't look pretty. The 81 and later core support and fenders are more squared than the 72 thru 80 trucks and RCs. I've seen others do it and the top of the fenders stuck out from the grill. Your grill looks just fine on your RC. No need to fix it if it isn't broke.
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Old Jun 28, 2014 | 12:03 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by J10Mike
Well, at the moment, it's not going to win any races. I need to swap in the 366 spring in the VE pump, and turn the pump up a little. That should increase performance a bit. I already have the 366 spring. Just haven't done that upgrade yet.
Also looking to pull the H1C turbo for the HX30. I understand the performance of the HX30 is much better than the H1C.
You might also look into widening your dynamic timing range. I'm not sure if the 4BTs are as bad as 6BTs when it comes to top-end anemia, though. I won't pretend to be a 4BT expert. Shoot, I won't pretend to be a 6BT expert; I'm parroting words of much wiser men. I do know H1C vs HX35 performance differences first hand, though. I think I already pointed this out earlier in this thread when I documented the swap, but I'll say it again: I don't think the HX35 flows much better, but it dang'd sure spools a lot faster and, for what it's worth, sounds like an F18 winding up with the silencer ring removed and a BHAF.

As for putting a 70s grill on your rig, it won't look pretty. The 81 and later core support and fenders are more squared than the 72 thru 80 trucks and RCs. I've seen others do it and the top of the fenders stuck out from the grill. Your grill looks just fine on your RC. No need to fix it if it isn't broke.
I appreciate you saying so. I like it fine and dandy and have no intention of ever changing it unless I can find an N.O.S. piece with the "DODGE" inlay. Then I'll have an excuse to delete the hood badge and hood ornament. That stuff holds my E/Ts back a thousandth or two of a second, I'm sure
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Old Jun 28, 2014 | 12:38 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by the.beard
You might also look into widening your dynamic timing range. I'm not sure if the 4BTs are as bad as 6BTs when it comes to top-end anemia, though. I won't pretend to be a 4BT expert. Shoot, I won't pretend to be a 6BT expert; I'm parroting words of much wiser men. I do know H1C vs HX35 performance differences first hand, though. I think I already pointed this out earlier in this thread when I documented the swap, but I'll say it again: I don't think the HX35 flows much better, but it dang'd sure spools a lot faster and, for what it's worth, sounds like an F18 winding up with the silencer ring removed and a BHAF.

I appreciate you saying so. I like it fine and dandy and have no intention of ever changing it unless I can find an N.O.S. piece with the "DODGE" inlay. Then I'll have an excuse to delete the hood badge and hood ornament. That stuff holds my E/Ts back a thousandth or two of a second, I'm sure
The 4bt is identical to the 6bt. Just, minus two cylinders. I have 6bt components on my 4bt, PS/vacuum pump. Cut down 6bt exhaust manifold. Dodge factory 6bt down pipe, etc. Not much difference other than factory HP and torque.
I also did an electrical conversion under the hood. I pulled all the Mopar electronic ignition, external voltage regulator, duel ballist resistor and a ton of old and hacked wiring and installed a GM Delco CS144 alternator, 140 amp. It fit and replaced the GM Delco 12si, 78 amp, like it could have come like that from the factory. I have 84 amps at idle. It definitely comes comes in handy for the winch and other electrical accessories.
I love driving it. It's already rare to see a topless RC running around town. But, add the CTD, and I have to chat with guys almost everywhere I go. It's almost like being a celebrity. Except, they want to check out the RC. LOL.
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Old Jun 28, 2014 | 10:43 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by J10Mike
The 4bt is identical to the 6bt. Just, minus two cylinders. I have 6bt components on my 4bt, PS/vacuum pump. Cut down 6bt exhaust manifold. Dodge factory 6bt down pipe, etc. Not much difference other than factory HP and torque.
I also did an electrical conversion under the hood. I pulled all the Mopar electronic ignition, external voltage regulator, duel ballist resistor and a ton of old and hacked wiring and installed a GM Delco CS144 alternator, 140 amp. It fit and replaced the GM Delco 12si, 78 amp, like it could have come like that from the factory. I have 84 amps at idle. It definitely comes comes in handy for the winch and other electrical accessories.
I love driving it. It's already rare to see a topless RC running around town. But, add the CTD, and I have to chat with guys almost everywhere I go. It's almost like being a celebrity. Except, they want to check out the RC. LOL.
The reason I question whether or not the 4bt has top-end fueling issues is that I imagine that since it only has 4 cylinders, the pump has a longer dwell time for each injector.

I saw your electrical setup on your website. Looks like it all belongs there even though I'm not used to seeing a GM alternator on a Cummins. I bet you get cash offers for it all the time. I've had a few already, so I know you must be drowning in them.
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Old Jun 28, 2014 | 05:04 PM
  #45  
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I just picked up some good stuff for the Ramcharger and I'm psyched!
First, I got a 2nd gen lift pump. This week I'll order the 15# spring from Hungry Diesel (I wish they weren't $50...jeez) and throw it in there. That ought to take care of the fueling issue on the top end.
Second, I got an Isspro fuel gauge, isolator and hose/fittings. I want to hook that up before I do the lift pump so I can get a baseline.
Next, I got Autometer trans. temp., boost and EGT gauges and all the wiring/tubing. They don't match but the price was right for the whole shootin' match (freeeeeeeeeeeeee!). I'll replace the Autometer stuff with Isspro stuff later, but at least I can keep an eye on what's going on under the hood now.
I also ordered the 3200 governor spring, so that ought to be here on Tuesday or Wednesday.
All I need now is some way to mount these gauges (can't decide which direction to go; I know I'll order the steering column pod from Geno's for fuel pressure, but I hate 1st gen pillar pods. Wouldn't be so bad if they didn't point at the moon).

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