Crossy's son

Ok today on the 92 I have been doing some testing on the cruise control. I have been using the info that SantaClaus has posted in this thread https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...l-t293639.html

Everything came up good, good ground, I have power at the servo now, and when i power up the servo the other 3 male terminals are hot

Now i got to the cruise switches and did the pinout test in the sticky



And here's my results

Switch off- Pin 1 and 4 ----------- NO

Switch on- Pin 1 and 4------------ NO
Pin 1 and 2--------- YES
Pin 2 and 4--------- NO

On and Set- Pin 1 and 2----- YES

On and Resume- Pin 1 and 3------ YES


Thinking about replacing both switches, but need part number

Brandon

Santaclaus

Sorry I got busy with something else for a while. I doubt they are available except from a junkyard. I'm planning to remove mine to a switch panel along with my turbo timer. I assume you have already illuminated the clock spring.


I got the book out in between looking at the picture you posted and reading the schematic I think the new right up for the switch continuity for on the very bottom that says on and resume should read continuity between 1, 2, 3 and a 4. Maybe someone else will look is on pages 8 W. -- 76 and 77. I'm assuming that the set coast switch is normally closed, and that the reset and accelerate switch is normally open. Also any time the on off switch is in the on position there would be continuity between, 1, 2, 4. Pressing the coast button with the power switch on would give continuity between 1 and 2. Pressing the reset and accelerate button with the power switch on would give continuity between all four wires. Also when you look at the picture in the book the wires read left to right 3, 4, 1 and 2. I would appreciate if someone else would doublecheck this for me. Good luck, Mike.

ppiggppenn

Pins 1 and 2 test YES in the second section, and YES in the third section whether the set button is pushed or not. Seems to me the result in the third section should test NO with the set button pushed, otherwise the set button has no effect. Oh BTW the switches the dealer brought in were for the two-spoke steering wheel and mine's a three-spoke wheel. The correct switch set should be here next Thursday. However knowing that the two-spoke wheel was an option I'll watch the wreckers for one and change wheels; should plug and play. I like to hang on the bottom of the wheel most of the time on highway, and that fat third spoke is on the bottom.

Crossy's son

the right switches for the 92-93 3 spoke wheel are part # 56006422

Yes they are still available for about $45

Oh and the 2 spoke 91 steering wheel uses its own clockspring which is 1 year only......all the 91 cruise stuff is one year only, spring, switches, wheel.

Just went through all this with Mark Nixon

ppigpen you gotta send those switches back and get the right one man.

ppiggppenn

Got those switches (same part number as you say) and eagerly installed them, ... STILL no cc. So now to go over all the tests and see if there's any bloody difference with the new switches. I guess my next move is to source out a servo. I'll hang on and try to get one during my upcoming trip thru the northern states where I've seen several wreckers visible from the hiway. I do not look forward to pushing that fn pedal for the whole trip! ....

ppiggppenn

Also does anyone know of other vehicles with servos that will work in ours? I imagine a new one would be pricey

ppiggppenn

I now have new switches on my steering wheel and a new servo unit from Dodge. What a sick joke! The dealer had a unit with a slightly different block terminal socket that needed an "adapter kit" ; I thought that would consist of a patch cord with terminals to fit the unit on one end and the harness at the other. WRONG! For $40 I got a bag of wires with bare female crimp-ons on the end of each(they fit the blade connector blades in the unit), an plastic block terminal with no conductors in it and a bunch of brass clips that serve no apparent purpose. I hacked in together in the dealer lot bipassing the harness terminal, but of course it didn't work. I'll solder things in better and see if it works, but the "adapter kit" at best would result in a hack job I could have done with $1 worth of hardware from my electrical tool box. It it doesn't work I'm left with few chances to use the original CC system and must either source out a unit from a wrecker or abandon the Dodge setup and go with a 3rd party kit from square one. Dodge really came up lame here along with about $250 worth of parts that just didn't work. Sorry about the rant

whosdunit

Hey ppig,,, your rant is really what some of us feel,,,,, about DODGE, DEALERS . Most of the time you get the feelin, we'r a bother. I'v got a 91& 91.5, found a donner trk . diff., cc on it .

Crossy's son

the Problem with ours turned out to be the set/decel switch.....the cruise works great now.

ppig, do you not have power at the servo or something?

Onemoparnut

Have you checked the clock spring?

Crossy's son

In that series of test that was posted in your thread ppigpen,

There was a test that actually told you if the servo was good or not- I used a test probe light with a sharp tip

ppiggppenn

Did all those tests and the only thing I found amiss was the unresponsive "set" button. New switches didn't help. Today I'll pick up a vacuum gage and see if I'm getting enough. My HVAC settings all work, but maybe the cc needs more. Grasping at straws here tho'. Today I'm also picking up a throttle cable cuz after a day of pulling my trailer my right ankle is stiff right up to the armpit.

Crossy's son

Why is your throttle so hard to push? if it's that hard for you to push it imagine how hard the CC servo was working.

It's also possible you have vacuum, and power. but the diaphragm in the servo is leaking and not pulling the throttle

Crossy's son

I would remove the throttle return springs that hook to the timing cover, those 2 little springs are unnecessary.

And where the throttle cable goes through the firewall under the dash, , the metal cable rides inside like a rubber sheath, depress the pedal and soak that cable with some good penetrant. usually that's where the problem is, not in the middle of the cable. those cables are sealed off pretty good to stop crap from getting in there.

ppiggppenn

My throttle isn't that hard to push; just that sitting in one position hours at a time is hard on the 66 yr old leg. BTW I did the santa claus tests on the new servo and everything has conductivity between everything, so it's a whole different animal or it's nfg. I got a truck throttle today with vernier adjust so that'll get me the 2500 miles back home, then I'll mess with the CC again. Glad you got yours going.