I put a new servo on went for test drive and cruise worked one time and quit any help would be great thank you doug

 

Fuse under the dash? there's a seperate fuse for speed control

 

The fuse is good under dash I thought the clock spring could be bad are something because horn doesn't work either The horn would work in park before no it does nothing along with cruise control.

 

Clock spring

 

Over the weekend I put a different clockspring on still no chage what wire does what or how can one test it? Cruise is so nice.

 

Here's what i used to trouble shoot mine. It's straight out of the factory service manual how to test each component

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If you have an OHM meter/Voltage tester you can easily test everything else. Here's the test procedures i used to figure out what was wrong with the 92

This is straight out of the FSM quoted by "SantaClaus" from another thread-

1. Turn the ignition switch to on position.
2. Push speed control switch to on position.
3. Connect the negative lead of a voltmeter to a good chassis ground near the servo.
4. Disconnect the four-way connector going to the servo.
The blue wire with the red tracer should read approximately battery voltage. If not, check for loose connections, brake switch adjustment or, repair the main harness as necessary.
5. Connect a jumper wire between the male and female terminals of the blue wire with red tracer. ( note I am reading this from the service manual and not looking at it on my truck was apparently what they want you to do is supply electricity to the servo) the other three male terminals from this road should show battery voltage if not replaces servo.
6. Turn the ignition off. Using an ohm meter, connect one lead to a good body ground. Touch the other lead to the black (BK) or terminal in the four-way connector of the main harness. The media should show continuity. If not repaired or ground circuit.
If this is not find your problem let me know and I can go on down the list.

Testing the PCM cruise control port

The next section; electrical test that powertrain control module.
1. Unplug 60 way connector for powertrain control module located on the left fender.
2. Connect negative lead of old mayor to the ground.
3. The following test, the ignition switch must be in the on position. ( when you unplug the control module turn it so you're looking at the business end the top row are numbered 1 through 20, the next row 21 through 40, the next row 41 through 60, best I can tell you without a picture ) refer to figure for control terminal locations. Touched a positive lead of the voltmeter to the terminal in cavity number 33. With the speed control switch in the off position, the voltmeter should read 0 V. With the speed control switch in the on position, the voltmeter should read battery voltage. If not fix it.
4. Touch the positive lead of the voltmeter to the turmoil in the cavity number 53. As in step three, the voltmeter should read 0 V with the switch in the off position and battery voltage with the switch in the on position.
5. Touched a positive lead of the voltmeter to the terminal in the cavity number 48. With the speed control switch in the off position the voltmeter should read 0 V. The switch and on position the voltmeter should read battery voltage. Pressing the set button should cause the voltmeter to change from battery voltage to 0 V for as long as the switch is hailed. If not perform the speed control switch test. If the switch is not at fault, and then check the main harness and repair as necessary.
6. Touch the positive lead of the voltmeter to the terminal in cavity number 50. The voltmeter should read 0 V with the speed control switch in either the off or on position. With switch in either resume or set position, the voltmeter should read battery voltage. If not performed a speed control switch test.
7. Touch the positive lead of the voltmeter to the terminal in cavity number 49. Should read 0 V with the switch off. With the switch on, should read battery voltage. The voltmeter will continue to read battery voltage when either the set or resume switch is pressed. If not perform speed control switch test.
8. Turnkey off. Use in all major, connect lead to good body ground and touch the other lead to the terminal in cavity number 29. With the break pedal released, the meter should show continuity. When the pedal is depressed the meter should show open circuit.

 

Mine had broken wire about 6" below clock spring.

 

Thank you guys I will get on it in the morning thanks again for info

 

I want to thank SantaClaus, for the original posts...and Crossy's Son, for combining them and re-posting them.

I just got my donor 93 out on the road for a couple days and the cruise was not working. With the diagnosis procedures I was able to narrow down the problem, and location.

Turned out the white wire from the cruise "On/Off" switch on the steering wheel was pinched and broken. Then the actual cruise wiring was not hooked up? Plugged the wiring back in, cut and re-soldered the wire...tested the voltage at the Blue/ with red tracer wire at the servo...and I had voltage! Took it for a drive and cruise works perfectly!

These procedures should be in the stickey!!

 

I agree.