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Core plugs and transmission lines

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Old Dec 23, 2017 | 12:59 AM
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From: Nevada Co., CA
Core plugs and transmission lines

I'm wanting to procure parts needed to clean up the mess that is my transmission cooler lines and heat exchanger. I have good condition lines and exchanger from a 727 so I need the line with the sensor bung for my 518. Any part numbers for core plugs and rubber hoses would help a lot. Turbo replacement time is the right time to get to the mess and replace those core plugs on the side of the block and clean it, paint it to make it purty.

Thanks
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Old Dec 23, 2017 | 07:59 AM
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I just refinished all my tubes and exchanger. Freeze plugs looked bad, but once I had clear access, they were dirty, but perfect condition. I cleaned, primed and painted the plugs, took the tubes and exchanger and has them blasted, zinc primed and powder coated.. Those 90 deg hoses are $45 each from Cummins. I bought high temp, silicone hoses off ebay, cut to fit, and installed with new clamps. I think thehoses were $12 each.

Look up 1/2" 90 deg silicone heater hoses. They will be 3" too long in both directions, but easily cut to fit.
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Old Dec 23, 2017 | 01:47 PM
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I bought all of the 1/2" fluid lines from O'Reilly's, it is listed as TOC (Transmission Oil Cooler) hose.

It is a special High Temp hose.

I have the auxillary cooler on my 91 D-350 so it took about 20' of hose.
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Old Dec 23, 2017 | 02:55 PM
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Originally Posted by Jim Lane
I bought all of the 1/2" fluid lines from O'Reilly's, it is listed as TOC (Transmission Oil Cooler) hose.

It is a special High Temp hose.

I have the auxillary cooler on my 91 D-350 so it took about 20' of hose.
Just bought 3' of 1/2" oil cooler hose from Napa. $4.99 a foot. Same hose online is $2.99 a foot, but I needed it now.
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Old Dec 24, 2017 | 04:27 PM
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BRB- those 90 degree coolant hoses can be had from NAPA and O’rileys. They carry the gates line of hos fittings. Genosgarage has them also for sure.

As far as your freeze plugs, I you go with standard, hammer in ones you can get them from Cummins for like $8 a piece. They are made in stainless now. I have to say, though, if you’ve looked at the angle to try and hammer the new ones on, the only way to do it cleanly, is to buy that special tool that drives them in. That tool isn’t cheap, either. It’s either that, or you’ll have to remove the transmission cooler, the turbo, tranny lines going to cooler, etc.- a lot of unnecessary work.

Or you can do like I did and put in the billet toggle bolt ones. Look up T Rex Diesel parts on eBay. He makes a 4 piece kit that includes the three down the passenger block, and one for up front, that is mounted behind the clutch bearing hub. It was a dang good price, too, last I checked a couple of months ago. I didn’t buy from him, because at the time I needed to have those plugs removed and replaced, I had not heard about his business.

Good luck!
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Old Dec 27, 2017 | 03:19 PM
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Originally Posted by NJTman
I just refinished all my tubes and exchanger. Freeze plugs looked bad, but once I had clear access, they were dirty, but perfect condition. I cleaned, primed and painted the plugs, took the tubes and exchanger and has them blasted, zinc primed and powder coated.. Those 90 deg hoses are $45 each from Cummins. I bought high temp, silicone hoses off ebay, cut to fit, and installed with new clamps. I think thehoses were $12 each.

Look up 1/2" 90 deg silicone heater hoses. They will be 3" too long in both directions, but easily cut to fit.
Sorry, I made a mistake. They're 5/8" ID Item # 272166102327
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Old Jan 1, 2018 | 09:47 PM
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I've been meaning to work on it but still workin on the forever bathroom remodel. I'm not concerned about how the core plugs look on the outside, it's what they're like on the inside. The cooling system had lots of mineral buildup when I got it years ago. Had a radiator shop work on it shortly after purchasing and just sporadic coolant changes since. So how do you test the block heater, plug it in and feel if it gets warm? Some day I may move to where I need it - I'll be a refugee from California.
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Old Jan 2, 2018 | 06:23 AM
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You can test it with a continuity test but that's not always a guaranteed answer, but if it's open its a obviously dead. What you do not want to do is to plug it in without it being in coolant as that will make it not work in a short order.
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Old Jan 2, 2018 | 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by bigredbrick
So how do you test the block heater, plug it in and feel if it gets warm?
When I plug mine in on a cold night, within about 30 seconds I hear a slight popping and crackling from the thermal expansion. And within a couple of minutes you should be able to put a bare hand on the block just above the heater and feel some warmth.

It was 5° F here this morning -- I'm using my block heater for the first time in a while...
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Old Jan 2, 2018 | 10:06 PM
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Big red, when I had one oozing coolant that’s what prompted me to just replace all the freezeplugs. I’m glad I didn’t just do that one, cause by the looks of the other ones on the inside, they were ready to go, also. On the outside, they all looked fine, just the factory paint peeling off. On the inside, rust and corroded as all get out.
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Old Jan 3, 2018 | 08:05 AM
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From: vermont
Originally Posted by james1
When I plug mine in on a cold night, within about 30 seconds I hear a slight popping and crackling from the thermal expansion. And within a couple of minutes you should be able to put a bare hand on the block just above the heater and feel some warmth.

It was 5° F here this morning -- I'm using my block heater for the first time in a while...
That is how I check they work and that the extension cord is plugged in correctly. I wait to hear the little popping and cracking noises, then head back inside and let it warm up.
At -33F yesterday...I needed it.
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