Well guys I have done some more digging on my truck and I keep uncovering problems but I'm not so sure about solutions... First of all my control valve came apart so I fixed that (the piece with the plunger collar and 4 orings that secures the line from the ksb) truck ran much better. Drove it for a day it was fine then the next cold day it started to gain some fuel in the oil so I stopped again. Decided to go through all the cold startup things. Fuel heater works, grid heaters work, ksb solenoid... uh oh no power to the solenoid. Did wanna's test on the switch, switch bad. 75 bucks from the dealer (puke). Okay lets test the ksb itself... uh oh solenoid doesnt work either 200 bucks online havent checked dealer... puke yet again. SOOOO im gonna fix these issues and go from there. Is it really possible that simply because the ksb doesnt work in the morning that its fuel washing the oil that badly??? And remember... the truck runs flippin great and I only ONLY have these issues when ambient air temp drops below about 40 degrees. Also, any leads on were to get these parts? I was gonna try vw for the ksb but I guess its dealer for them otherwise...

To refresh your memory https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...p-t299059.html

 

If your getting fuel in the oil I suspect the lift pump leaking.

 

I wish... no lift pump on engine anymore...

 

then check the front of the pump at the seal.

 

How much fuel pressure are you getting with the after market pump? I remember seeing the other thread but could'nt remember the fuel pressure you stated.

EDIT: Sory, missed the link on the first post.

 

Injection pump could be cracked around where the seal is. or the seal could just be bad.

 

If you are using a 2nd gen electric lift pump without a regulator, you are pushing fuel out the front seal on the IP.
KSB wiring. Power comes from the second wire on the fuel shut off solenoid to the thermal switch through a dropping resistor to the KSB solenoid that is grounded through it's case threads. If enough oxidation gets between the threads of the KSB and the body is screws into, the KSB won't work.

 

Cougar - I think you are correct. Just read another thread with the same problem a week ago and it turned out to be the EXACT issue. Fuel was being pushed past the seal, the pressure was not being regulated correctly and was too high for the VE pump. I will see if I can find that one...

 

Most use a bypass type regulator and return the excess to the tank. If you haven't blown the seal out or damaged the seal, you may be okay by just reducing the pressure to around 7-10psi. Sense you'll need the regulator anyway, do that first before pulling the IP.

 

As far as parts for the injector pump go, I get the part number from the diagram in the sticky (make sure you look at the diagram for IC or non IC truck as appropriate) and call up a local diesel injection shop. If you give them the part number, they'll normally sell you the part at a reasonable price . . . nice shops will look up the part number for you if you give them the pump number (also in the sticky, if you can't read the side of your pump). The KSB solenoid used to be an $80 item IIRC. My apologies if you meant Bosch dealer, not Dodge dealer.

I don't think that the injector can leak into the crankcase, only into the cylinder, or to the outside, but I might be wrong. I am pretty sure, however, that the front seal does not leak under excess case pressure, rather it gets shoved out of the front of the pump case, and that 18psi was considered the safe max pressure. I am also pretty sure that 3 quarts of fuel did not come through the piston rings in one night of driving.

I would go back to the seal/front of the pump leaking, but I don't see how it can heal itself when the ambient temperature warms up.

 

Thanks for all the replies guys... i feel the same way about the front seal... i ran that second gen pump all summer which produces 15 psi of pressure and no problems... the first cold snap and there is fuel in the oil... I know the ksb is bad I bench tested it. I also know the thermal switch is bad. I have power to the ksb when i disconnect the switch and run a jumper across the contacts of the plug in... I know I need to run a fuel pressure gauge again to see what inlet pressure is under all conditions but if it was a pressure problem why would cold weather affect it so badly and if that was the case 4 months of driving in warm weather with absolutely no level gain in the oil doesnt make sense... Im gonna fix the ksb issues to start with and then go from there. Again guys thank you so much for your input. I really miss my truck

 

Metal and plastics shrink in the cold, and plastics get stiffer or harder. Oils get thicker, and when pumped usually produce higher pressures.

It's a matter of being just under or just over a limit.

 

Well guys you arent gonna believe this but I may have figured out my problem... and my ignorance is to blame... So Ive made all my checks and comparisons and I dealt with an incredible parts guy here in colorado *pm for details* and i have come up with an answer, well a problem that I have to fix anyway. So when my buddy had this truck before he had some diesel mechanic put an injection pump and some rebuilt factory injectors in the truck because it was leaking fuel and hes no longer around for me to ask if it was overfilling the crankcase. Well he continued to have this issue with the pump leaking so thats how I ended up with the truck. I pulled the pump and resealed myself and did a few mods and things like that and its run great except for this cold weather fuel oil issue. Long story short I have a non ic pump on my intercooled truck with a non ic ksb... plain as day. insert words that would have me banned... so my poor pump has been running with the non ic ksb full advanced for the last year and I had no idea... I can only imagine what kind of damage I might find in the pump. So heres my question. I have an intercooled ve for parts. Can I bolt the correct ksb housing from an intercooled pump to a non intercooled pump? Im gonna rip it apart either way and inspect the innards to see if I can see any damage but my issue is that I know the pump on the truck runs I dont know the condition of my builder pump. Either way I feel I may have just figured out the main issue. Sorry for the long read and thank you to everyone that has chimed in. Ill let you know how it goes!!!

 

I was looking at the wiring diagrams thinking you could just rewire it, but the non-intercooled goes through the controller. Off hand I do not know if the KSBs are interchangeable to the injection pump. I do know the KSB solenoids are not. If you have them both out, compare them side to side and see if they have the same ports and such.
You still need to turn down the fuel supply pressure.

 

They look to be the same, I think ill be okay just to swap housings... I cant believe my poor pumps been running full advance all this time... and the crazy thing is the truck runs so good... I cant imagine what it will run like with the right timing. I need to check the fuel pressure again I know, that pump was supposedly rated for a maximum of 15psi output but I dont know that I trust that.