Club Cab to Standard Cab Swap
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Club Cab to Standard Cab Swap
The cab on my '93 is starting to get tired. The rear cab wall is broke all the way across and the back of the cab is sagging down over the rear cab mounts. My other club cab '93 was doing the exact same thing as well as the one that Grandpa owned a few years back as well. On the other hand, I have never seen a standard cab with this problem. It make me think that the longer cab can't stand up to the frame flex.
Anyways, standard cab 1st gen gas powered standard cab Dodges are cheap and plentiful in this region. No rust at all, clean and straight, and priced between $800 and $1600. What would it take to do a body swap with a standard cab gasser? Keep the wiring harness and core support with the chassis, correct? The front cab mounts should bolt up? Just have to slide the rear cab mounts forward? The extra frame length won't be a problem as I have a flatbed on it so I will wither lengthen the bed or turn the space into storage.
Is this a plausible idea to keep the old Dodge on the road?
Anyways, standard cab 1st gen gas powered standard cab Dodges are cheap and plentiful in this region. No rust at all, clean and straight, and priced between $800 and $1600. What would it take to do a body swap with a standard cab gasser? Keep the wiring harness and core support with the chassis, correct? The front cab mounts should bolt up? Just have to slide the rear cab mounts forward? The extra frame length won't be a problem as I have a flatbed on it so I will wither lengthen the bed or turn the space into storage.
Is this a plausible idea to keep the old Dodge on the road?
#2
Registered User
Yup sounds about right.....
Only thing you need to watch or modify is the tranny tunnel, on a reg cab 2wd it may be a small narrow hump so it will not be able to clear your transfer case, but if you cut out your existing one and rivet, weld or bolt it in place in the new cab you should be golden. Only other major difference is in the wiring bulkhead connector and the size and approx position of the hole in the body to accept it, so depending on how accurate you want it you might need to weld in a piece and file it to shape, or do like the tranny tunnel and cut out the proper piece and attach it to the new cab. Also not sure of the frame kick up under the club cab, might hit the lower edge of the standard cab??
Think that is about it....other will chime in if I have forgotten something.
Only thing you need to watch or modify is the tranny tunnel, on a reg cab 2wd it may be a small narrow hump so it will not be able to clear your transfer case, but if you cut out your existing one and rivet, weld or bolt it in place in the new cab you should be golden. Only other major difference is in the wiring bulkhead connector and the size and approx position of the hole in the body to accept it, so depending on how accurate you want it you might need to weld in a piece and file it to shape, or do like the tranny tunnel and cut out the proper piece and attach it to the new cab. Also not sure of the frame kick up under the club cab, might hit the lower edge of the standard cab??
Think that is about it....other will chime in if I have forgotten something.
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