can't figure this low power issue out
10-24-2017, 05:09 PM
#46
You should try the Irwin easy out nut driver set. When I was trying to get the torx bolts off of the KSB, to install my M&H timing spacer, I, too rounded off the torx within the bolt, basically stripped it. Found those Irwin easy outs at my local O'rileys and bam! Out in a jiffy!
It's not a drill bit deal. It's not a socket looking deal, either. They look like magnetic nut drivers that go on your drill motor. Those will easily remove those.
It's not a drill bit deal. It's not a socket looking deal, either. They look like magnetic nut drivers that go on your drill motor. Those will easily remove those.
10-24-2017, 05:11 PM
#47
Right here is what you need
10-24-2017, 05:44 PM
#48
Registered User
I just spent nearly 4 hours trying to get the piston cover bolts out. t30 socket cut through first one like butter, I mean I cleaned the head of the bolt got all the paint off and everything tapped the t30 in with a small hammer to make sure it was really snug went to twist and it didn't even have pressure just completely rounded it.. so I notched it tried a chisel and some tapping nothing, used a BIG flat head in the notch, nothing. ground 2 sides so an open end 8mm wrench fit with some tapping so it was super snug, rounded the flats I ground. taking the pump body to my house so I can weld some bolts to them and test my luck there. if not it's going to the local machine shop. frustrating as hell these bolt heads are maybe 1/8" thick at best... no idea how they got so much torque on them at the factory
10-25-2017, 12:28 AM
#49
Banned
I just spent nearly 4 hours trying to get the piston cover bolts out. t30 socket cut through first one like butter, I mean I cleaned the head of the bolt got all the paint off and everything tapped the t30 in with a small hammer to make sure it was really snug went to twist and it didn't even have pressure just completely rounded it.. so I notched it tried a chisel and some tapping nothing, used a BIG flat head in the notch, nothing. ground 2 sides so an open end 8mm wrench fit with some tapping so it was super snug, rounded the flats I ground. taking the pump body to my house so I can weld some bolts to them and test my luck there. if not it's going to the local machine shop. frustrating as hell these bolt heads are maybe 1/8" thick at best... no idea how they got so much torque on them at the factory
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edwinsmith (10-25-2017)
10-26-2017, 06:17 AM
#50
I tried this. I hated having this project sit but I didn't have time the past day. today I will be welding up nuts and bolts to the heads and try that, if that doesn't work I don't think anything will lol
10-27-2017, 03:18 PM
#51
my fuel pin is still sticking!! it slides around in the housing just fine until I put the new o ring in there then it doesn't want to move. I used stp oil on it and everything, tons of oil nothin idk what to do now
10-27-2017, 04:43 PM
#52
Sorry for your troubles!
10-28-2017, 08:33 AM
#53
well I worked it back and forth a while with tons of stp. it pops out with throttle now, sometimes not all the way at first. but it doesn't go back in. I'm assuming that the fuel pin/cone is supposed to push it back in after boost is gone? I'm gonna finish installing it today and see what happens. if all else fails I'll lightly polish the slide pin and the housing for it. maybe it will help
10-28-2017, 10:43 AM
#54
I've manually pushed that pin out by working the throttle lever, but when I release the throttle lever the pin does not automatically go back in. So, that's when I lube it, then take a pick and slide mine back in.
I have a feeling, and I hate to say this, that you may have other issues going on. Can't remember, but did you say you already checked your lift pump? What kind of spray are you getting at the fuel lines at the injector connections, when you crack the nuts loose? You say you checked that fuel shut off solenoid? Yes?
I have a feeling, and I hate to say this, that you may have other issues going on. Can't remember, but did you say you already checked your lift pump? What kind of spray are you getting at the fuel lines at the injector connections, when you crack the nuts loose? You say you checked that fuel shut off solenoid? Yes?
10-28-2017, 10:59 AM
#55
this was with pump off the truck. so I don't think anything else could be effecting it. I just know it's supposed to slide in and out with gravity, mine only goes out with the throttle **** and in when I push it in
as far as injector spray, not sure I'll have to check when I get it back in. my loft pump shoots fuel out of the nut on top but never hooked a gauge up
as far as injector spray, not sure I'll have to check when I get it back in. my loft pump shoots fuel out of the nut on top but never hooked a gauge up
10-28-2017, 02:26 PM
#56
BigRed, are you going to have to disassemble the VE pump again? Follow that procedure in the FSM on checking that lift pump. I believe it has a procedure to check the gallons per minute? So no gage needed? You may just be starving for fuel. Isn't it weird, how it all of a sudden just happened? Hopefully you weren't running any bio like the other guy did, as he had the same exact problem as you initially had.
10-28-2017, 07:27 PM
#57
so I got it all back together, bled the lines got ready to start it and notice the stupid manual shut off lever was leaking. pulled the top hat off and found out the nut is all stripped out has maybe a thread left in it lol. oh well I'll try to find another nut. at least that's the worst of the problems now lol
edit; no shouldn't have to take it all apart again I just had to take the top hat off. the fuel pins been sticking since I bought the truck I just thought I fixed it a long time ago. when I bled the injectors diesel was squirting out pretty hard flying everywhere. so it's getting fuel.
also the fuel pin seems to be working fine. if it starts sticking again I'll polish it
edit; no shouldn't have to take it all apart again I just had to take the top hat off. the fuel pins been sticking since I bought the truck I just thought I fixed it a long time ago. when I bled the injectors diesel was squirting out pretty hard flying everywhere. so it's getting fuel.
also the fuel pin seems to be working fine. if it starts sticking again I'll polish it
10-29-2017, 11:18 AM
#58
crush seal?
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/1st-gen-ram-all-topics-93/pump-reseal-truck-wont-start-297594/
can anyone show me a picture of the plug with the crush seal they are talking about in that thread? I couldn't get my truck to start for the few times I tried when I had it together and I thought it was throttle indexing. after reading this thread though I just want to make sure I didn't mess this crush seal up.
can anyone show me a picture of the plug with the crush seal they are talking about in that thread? I couldn't get my truck to start for the few times I tried when I had it together and I thought it was throttle indexing. after reading this thread though I just want to make sure I didn't mess this crush seal up.
11-02-2017, 07:09 PM
#59
anyways if this spring is a piece that goes in that coupler I need a new one but can't find it anywhere on the web.. anyone point me in the right direction?
11-02-2017, 07:36 PM
#60
BRD, call (916)371-5223, that's Diamond Diesel in West Sacramento, CA. Ask for Margaret or Dave. Send them this picture via email, with areas highlighted, and they'll have any part you need. They are a Bosch certified injection pump shop.
Another one is Valley Fuel Injection out of Woodland, CA. Their number is (530)668-0818. Ask for a guy named Dave. They'll have that part.
If this is a pic that you saved from Jim Layne's pic collection, it should have came with a parts number list. Give that number to those shops, also.
Another one is Valley Fuel Injection out of Woodland, CA. Their number is (530)668-0818. Ask for a guy named Dave. They'll have that part.
If this is a pic that you saved from Jim Layne's pic collection, it should have came with a parts number list. Give that number to those shops, also.