can't figure this low power issue out
#31
Registered User
#33
Registered User
I have a few of those TPS units for sale.
They don't look like that either.
They don't look like that either.
#34
I'll order a fleabay unit. anyways, that's got some time so it's on the back burner for the night. today I got my work area set up for my ip seal job and tested the work space by taking apart my power steering stuff, incredibly easy. tomorrow I'll clean it up really good and make it look pretty, then it's injection pump removal time.
#35
New unit for sure.
Just noticed that you're still using the original factory throttle rod, with the plastic ball joint ends. Those are prone to cracking, loosening up, and popping off of the ball.
Cummins and all vendors selling firstgen engine parts like Geno's and puredieselpower carry the metal ball ends with a new rod.
Then there are others who use heim joints and all thread rod. Crazycarlsturbos.com has those in kit form.
Just noticed that you're still using the original factory throttle rod, with the plastic ball joint ends. Those are prone to cracking, loosening up, and popping off of the ball.
Cummins and all vendors selling firstgen engine parts like Geno's and puredieselpower carry the metal ball ends with a new rod.
Then there are others who use heim joints and all thread rod. Crazycarlsturbos.com has those in kit form.
#36
Registered User
New unit for sure.
Just noticed that you're still using the original factory throttle rod, with the plastic ball joint ends. Those are prone to cracking, loosening up, and popping off of the ball.
Cummins and all vendors selling firstgen engine parts like Geno's and puredieselpower carry the metal ball ends with a new rod.
Then there are others who use heim joints and all thread rod. Crazycarlsturbos.com has those in kit form.
Just noticed that you're still using the original factory throttle rod, with the plastic ball joint ends. Those are prone to cracking, loosening up, and popping off of the ball.
Cummins and all vendors selling firstgen engine parts like Geno's and puredieselpower carry the metal ball ends with a new rod.
Then there are others who use heim joints and all thread rod. Crazycarlsturbos.com has those in kit form.
#38
New unit for sure.
Just noticed that you're still using the original factory throttle rod, with the plastic ball joint ends. Those are prone to cracking, loosening up, and popping off of the ball.
Cummins and all vendors selling firstgen engine parts like Geno's and puredieselpower carry the metal ball ends with a new rod.
Then there are others who use heim joints and all thread rod. Crazycarlsturbos.com has those in kit form.
Just noticed that you're still using the original factory throttle rod, with the plastic ball joint ends. Those are prone to cracking, loosening up, and popping off of the ball.
Cummins and all vendors selling firstgen engine parts like Geno's and puredieselpower carry the metal ball ends with a new rod.
Then there are others who use heim joints and all thread rod. Crazycarlsturbos.com has those in kit form.
#39
I got the pump off but I have a problem.. I got the "boost enrichment device" off (where the fuel pin, slide pin and star wheel are) and there's no way to get to the fuel slide pin.. the lever that is supposed to push it in and out is permanently set. so how do i get the fuel slide pin unstuck and replace the seal that's on it? I'm lost.
edit; learned correct term for fuel pin and fuel slide pin.
edit; learned correct term for fuel pin and fuel slide pin.
#40
Never heard of that...can you take a pic?
#41
yep I'll post a pic tomorrow. I just started thinking.. that video that shows removal of the pump was for recalls. my pump didn't have that infinity symbol on it that I saw. I'm gonna double check tomorrow but if my pump is one that needs that service, am I SOL on that since that was so long ago?
#42
Aww, man, that's kind of a weird subject. There was a dude on here, that went thru around five pages of posts on his own tread, mixed in with tons of help from folks on here, along with a lot of chaos and drama. Can't remember his name, but what became of it was no(his story), it was not getting replaced under recall, cause supposedly(his story) the dealers local to him told him that there was no pump available to exchange his with. Have you read that tread?
It doesn't hurt to try; I would. When that tread was going on, I went ahead and gave my vin to my dealer, and they had the actual date it was swapped out when owned by one of the two previous owners of my truck.
Remember, all is on your side. It was a safety recall.
It doesn't hurt to try; I would. When that tread was going on, I went ahead and gave my vin to my dealer, and they had the actual date it was swapped out when owned by one of the two previous owners of my truck.
Remember, all is on your side. It was a safety recall.
The following users liked this post:
edwinsmith (10-23-2017)
#43
Aww, man, that's kind of a weird subject. There was a dude on here, that went thru around five pages of posts on his own tread, mixed in with tons of help from folks on here, along with a lot of chaos and drama. Can't remember his name, but what became of it was no(his story), it was not getting replaced under recall, cause supposedly(his story) the dealers local to him told him that there was no pump available to exchange his with. Have you read that tread?
It doesn't hurt to try; I would. When that tread was going on, I went ahead and gave my vin to my dealer, and they had the actual date it was swapped out when owned by one of the two previous owners of my truck.
Remember, all is on your side. It was a safety recall.
It doesn't hurt to try; I would. When that tread was going on, I went ahead and gave my vin to my dealer, and they had the actual date it was swapped out when owned by one of the two previous owners of my truck.
Remember, all is on your side. It was a safety recall.
#44
hope you can see the slide pin here. that lever resting on it in the pic is set in the housing by some type of press pins. only way to get it out is to cut the ends of the pins and press them out. only other way to remove the slide pin is from the front where the fuel pin goes in, not sure how i would get to the slide pins seal/o ring though
my pump is not a recall pump date stamp is 264
my pump is not a recall pump date stamp is 264
#45
I just spent nearly 4 hours trying to get the piston cover bolts out. t30 socket cut through first one like butter, I mean I cleaned the head of the bolt got all the paint off and everything tapped the t30 in with a small hammer to make sure it was really snug went to twist and it didn't even have pressure just completely rounded it.. so I notched it tried a chisel and some tapping nothing, used a BIG flat head in the notch, nothing. ground 2 sides so an open end 8mm wrench fit with some tapping so it was super snug, rounded the flats I ground. taking the pump body to my house so I can weld some bolts to them and test my luck there. if not it's going to the local machine shop. frustrating as hell these bolt heads are maybe 1/8" thick at best... no idea how they got so much torque on them at the factory