I need to replace the axle seal on my DANA 70 rear. To do that I need to remove the factory dust shield covering the hub. To do that I apparently need to drive out the studs and separate the plate. Assuming I drive them out safely, can they be reused? I've reused them on my 1951 B3 ton Power Wagon but can't find any info on the 1st Gen.

Thanks,

 

Yes you should be fine reusing them provided you don't damage them on removal. I reused the studs on the front/back when I replaced brake drums/discs.

 

Jobs like this is where a 2lb brass hammer, or a good stout brass drift comes in handy. I did not realize how handy those tools were until the last year or so. I bought them to help rebuild the 4wd components in the 4wd crewcab conversion.....Darn handy to have!!

 

I don't have the hammer but I have a brass drift, and blocks of oak.

I guess you do it with the nut on and flush with the threads right, at least that how I've always done it.

 

Yup, nut on and flush. A block of wood works fine with a large hammer.

 

why do you need to remove the dust shield I never have to replace the axle seal Ken

 

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...p-t318897.html

I never have either in the past but this axle has a shield with the opening smaller than the seal diameter. I can't find any reference to it other than the experiences of others (above link).

 

You probably already have this project done ---- however, studs are splined and, when driven into a hub, make mating splines in said hub.

To insure that these splines mate properly, number the studs and the holes they reside in, then make index marks on each stud and the hub, such that everything goes back where it always was.

I know many studs get driven in and out countless times with no noticed ill effects; however, I have also had first hand experience many many times with studs spinning loosely in the hub instead of the wheel-nut backing off = not a good day at the tire-shop.

Long time, no see.

Stay high and dry during this 11th wettest summer and thus far 3rd wettest August ever.

 

Hey old friend. Yes I do have it done.

I actually considered doing what you said but then dismissed it as OCD. All went well though, so far.

When they do spin, how the heck do you get them off then? Drill it out? Cut the nut? Not easy no matter what my guess.

 

The type of wheel has a lot to do with how things proceed once a stud starts spinning.

Of course, no part of this is anything resembling easy; even a plain-Jane steel wheel has the mounting holes recessed within a "dish" that is much closer to the wheel-nuts than it would first appear, then some portion of the axle or hub is always poking through in the middle of things; one can barely get a socket on the nut, let alone find working room for any of the miracle "nut-buster" gizmos that look good in the ad but never work in the real world.

It is a rare case where the wheel survives the procedure which usually involves either a cutting-torch or hours pounding away with a big cold-chisel.

In the last thirty years, just about everything comes factory-original with "aluminum" pot-metal wheels that are, by necessity of the fragility of the material, very thick in the mounting surface, with the nuts recessed deeply in close-fitting holes, such that an ultra-thin-wall socket is required; in these cases, you just say good-bye wheel.

Air-impact wrenches contribute heavily to the likely-hood of a stud spinning loose; during the life of a set of tires, the wheel-nuts get hammered off and on countless times --- "rotating" the tires, brake work, front-end alignments, flat tires, and the many other tasks that require a wheel be removed so that work can progress.

With each "impact" of the air-gun, the stud-splines get hammered in whichever direction the wrench is turning, soft metal begins to move until one day there is no more metal left to hold the splines.


Needless to say, I never use air-wrenches on my stuff.

 

Ugg, hope mine do OK then. I've retorqued once after driving a few miles and all was well.

I have a battery powered impact gun that I use to run them on & off the threads but use my 4-way to tighten and the torque wrench to finish.

Enjoy the rain...