This is what I have so far.

 

I think I could machine them. The trick is building the jig to hold it on the surface grinder. I think it would be to difficult to machine on the end-mill. I know that at the least I could turn the pins and die them so when i screw up the first couple I have some knew ones. What version of CAD are you gues using. how bout Inventor.

 

As soon as I am confident about the profile I can get my machinest friend to crank them out my the hundreds!
I use AutoCAD and 3D studio.

 

i wish i knew someone who could make them. that would sure beat spending 200 for it

 

Looks like you could hold the pin in a horizontal rotary table with a 5C collet. A competent machine shop with a 3 axis cnc controlled mill could mill the whole profile with a ball endmill using a "mesh" or "wire frame Milling" (very many passes moving the tool up or down and to the side very little)depending on what cad system your using. If some one PM ed me some dimensions and a material preference I might be able to swing something. Jethrro

 

Wait till she goes to sleep open her purse find your ***** and $200 and buy one

 

I feel stainless is a bad choice for a fuel pin. Most stainless steels are soft and do not harden well. They were made because of their anti corosive properties and contain a generous portion of nickel which makes the steel tough, not hard. Carbon and iron help make the steel hard. My chose would be oil hardening Drill rod. It comes in 3 foot lengths and it is ground to diameter. It can be hardened if desired.
I didn't have a chance to work on my fuel delivery system as of yet. I have been to busy killing deer with the front of my Toyota.

 

Can I get some dimensions too. The shop I was apprenticing at has a 4-axis CNC that I could use. The more that I look at it the easier it seems it would be to make. With the w-axis rotoary table perpendicualar to the z-axis you could mill the curve with the side of like a 5/16" mill (I don't know the exact size as I have yet to actually see a fuel pi with dimensions), then to get that little 90 degree notch near the top of the curve you could simply rotate the rod 90 degrees and make a pass on the y-axis. ok that might be a little hard to follow, but I think it should work. As far as materials I need to check the hand book.

 

You know there was alot of R&D involved in making these things work. I hate to see people copy others' things and make money off them. I know $200 is steep but who said horsepower is cheap. Without these guys doing the R&D we would probably just be breaking 300hp mark.

 

True but college isn't cheap either. And unless a company patends it, there is free reign on a design, though I would NOT "steal" a design from anyone on this site if that what is being implied. I would certainly get permision to use it. I just want to make something that everyone can benifit from without breaking the bank, besides, we have a machine shop sitting in the backyard, why not use it. And YES $200 is WAY too much when you think about what kind of time, work, and R&D goes into a camshaft and their cost. SBC cams are sub $100. This is just my opinion, and everyone is entitled to his or her own.

 

Let's see, 40 horsepower, 15 minutes work, and a kick in pants feeling. Worth $175.00........You betcha!
When you were going to make one for yourself I didn't have a problem. But since your planning on making more, forget it. That is one of the reasons things cost to dang much.

 

Not if your on a budget. Beside if Bullydog can make money why the hell can't i make a little on the side? What is everyone so upset about its like HMM, and can save people some money but know one wants to let me, doesn't make to much sense, and i'm bettin I people from here on out will think of me different oh well, i guess thats life.

 

This is a market economy, if someone else starts making them than the price will go down cause there will be something called competition. Then it will be whose pin makes more power, etc.

 

Anyone know the thread size/pitch and debth of the attaching hole in the end?

 

Be careful grinding your own fuel pin. Just a mm too much and you will have the fuel pin seal leaking due to overtravel. Old Smokey took this into consideration and spent many hours finding the max safe point of travel for the fuel pin.

Unless Bully Dog has changed there cone profile from several years back, it was a waste of money.