Can anyone take a picture of their power pin with a ruler next to it so I can make one! My wife will not understand a $200 piece of bar stock!

 

It has a reverse parabolic ramp the has a distinct profile. A ruler won't help. You would need to "borrow one" to use as a guide. The other option is to grind the heck out of your stock one. I still have my old one in my tool box if you mess up. Send me PM if you need it.

 

The pins are made of some seriously hardened stuff, so it may be bar stock, just not cheap bar stock...those that know the type of alloy will chime in, I hope. As for the profile, well, it's been brought up in the other forums that whoever designed these things worked long and hard to get it right and that we should support their efforts if we want to reap the benefits of their labor. OR, you can just grind the heck out of your stock pin and see what happens---that's what I did, 'cause I couldn't justify the 200 beans for a piece of bar stock either

g

 

If you got a 3200 spring and PODS I don't see how the fuel pin will
change anything. All the pin does is add fuel based on the turbo pressure.
If you were to turn the star wheel a round or two and wind the fuel screw
that should do the same, OR am I missing something special here.

 

The aftermarket fuel pins are "deeper" than the deep side of a factory pin. They add about 25-30 HP by adding more fuel. Star wheel and smoke screw adjustments only affect how quickly you get the extra fuel, not how much fuel you get.

 

It's true that the pin adds fuel based on boost. An aftermarket pin simply changes how much fuel is added, in reference to boost level. Plus, since the factory pin combines many potential 'settings' (360 degrees worth, if you wanna get fussy) in one unit, it's simply not possible to obtain a 'max afc fueling' situation when compared to an aftermarket grind that only has one setting. By not having the option to rotate, an aftermarket pin can be cut deep into the bar stock where the stock pin would already be cut in half. The effect of the pin, or fuel cone, is to control and limit governer arm motion. By grinding the stock pin or going aftermarket, the gov arm is allowed to travel farther when under boost, thus allowing the pump to fuel harder. The starwheel adjustment is simply a fine tuning device that determines at what boost the afc cone begins to travel down its bore. Short of grinding the AFC, I would say fuel cone fiddling of some sort is a pretty good bang for the buck.

greg

 

Dave, ya beat me to it and explained it better with less words, as usual

g

 

I ment the full power screw, that adds fuel, correct. IF you have a stock pin
couldn't you turn the power screw in and have the same effect? I mean with PODS
that should add as much fuel as changing the pin......???? and not turning the screw.

Also if you grind the foot this all goes out the window.... right.



still

 

I made my own using a picture I found on TDR somewhere, as far as performance, night and day between the stock one and the one I made, I had it out awhile back and noticed the pin in the pump was wearing a groove in the pin. (I had used drill rod and found that it is not hard enough to stand up) So I trimmed its height to change its start point on the ramp, reground it, hardened it.
As far as what type of steel to use, any hardenable tool steel of the appriate diameter should do the trick.

 

The whole AFC system can be used to add more fuel on top of what the fuel screw adds. The fuel screw "biases" the whole governor lever assembly towards the full fuel position by moving the fulcrum, which is why you have to lower the idle speed and also why you eventually get runaways. What the AFC foot mod (and to a lesser extent aftermarket or ground fuel pins) does is increase the range of motion that the governor lever has. Once the AFC lever is ground, an aftermarket fuel pin will still increase the governor lever travel even further. Did that clear it up a little? I'm happy to keep 'splainin'.

 

If somebody could give me a high res shot from several feet away with a ruler I can make a pattern from it in AutoCAD no problem, and to scale. I don't want to sell them, just make one.

 

.............The fuel screw "biases" the whole governor lever assembly towards
the full fuel position by moving the fulcrum ........


Tha splaines a bunches


so it ain't like the old 8V71's


NOW I GOT IT!!

 

Next time I make a star wheel adjustment I will do that for you. Didn't know you were the master of the CAD . You want metric or SAE? I will even mic it up for you. Might get it this weekend if I can knock off some pending honey do's.

 

Thanks Boatnik!
Hope you get those honeydo's knocked out! I have a pile of them myself .
That would be great if you could mic it up for me. My machinist buddy can advise me on the material, maybe stainless, and make it for me from my solid model.
I think a pin will really help my truck. I'll grind the AFC lever off at the same time.

 

I think you could probably make some money selling them too . I would much rather buy from a DTR member than a company, and Im pretty sure you could make them cheaper than $200.