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Broke the oil pressure sending unit, is it safe to run without?

Old Aug 3, 2006 | 10:36 PM
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Broke the oil pressure sending unit, is it safe to run without?

So while in the midst of replacing my powersteering pump (see my other thread) I managed to snap the oil pressure sensor that goes into the drivers side of the block . I barely touched it and I guess it was fairly brittle and it snapped off. I'll post pics later to clarify the situation haha.

So am I safe to run without it plugged in? I can only imagine that my oil pressure gauge won't work and thats it? What about getting the rest of the piece(s) out? There is this tin-foil like cover in there now that seems to be blocking out any leaks and I'm guessing it presses on the sensor to gauge how much oil psi I have.

I have to make a 500 or km trip this weekend so will I be safe to run it or am I gambling with a bad hand?


Thanks
Lucas
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Old Aug 3, 2006 | 10:39 PM
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As long as its not leaking, I dont see a problem. You cound just pull it and stick a plug in there. But like you said no oil pressure gauge..
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 02:04 AM
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Oil Sender

im guessing you should be fine as long as it doesnt leak and if it doesnt leave it alone anyway those arent to presise if you want an oil pressure guage just put a mechanical one in you have to plug those in the plug just over the oil filter they are way more presise
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 07:22 AM
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If that 'tin foil' is the potentiometer/transducer diaphragm you might be asking for trouble. A plug is maybe a buck, and cheap insurance.

Also the computer sends a reference signal to the sender and then the sender value is sent back. Be sure the wiring cannot short out or else compuer damage may result.
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by JimmieD
If that 'tin foil' is the potentiometer/transducer diaphragm you might be asking for trouble. A plug is maybe a buck, and cheap insurance.

Also the computer sends a reference signal to the sender and then the sender value is sent back. Be sure the wiring cannot short out or else compuer damage may result.
I would 2nt that one!!!!!!!
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 10:20 AM
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I'm by no means a genius , but I thought 1st Gens didn't have computers. Please excuse the Hijack.
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 10:38 AM
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They have a basic PCM computer that monitors and (I guess) controls something. The big difference is that they don't have an ECU that controls the engine like newer ones.

EDIT: It's located behind the glove box.
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 11:25 AM
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The sensor is pretty cheap and easy to find as its the same as used on the gas engines, any parts store should have it for under $30. Just did mine mine, took less than 5min. If you go to the store to buy a plug may as well just get the sensor.
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 12:55 PM
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$19.99 at AutoZone, just made the same mistake when changing the injection pump.
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 01:23 PM
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Ok, so it wouldn't be wise to leave as it is, where would I get a plug? (stupid question I know). How can I go about getting the rest of the sensor out without putting pieces of plastic/crud into the engine? Is this piece a threaded piece? If I run it with a plug I'm going to zip tie the wiring to something non metal, like a vaccuum hose.

Thanks
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by NoSparkplugs
Ok, so it wouldn't be wise to leave as it is, where would I get a plug? (stupid question I know). How can I go about getting the rest of the sensor out without putting pieces of plastic/crud into the engine? Is this piece a threaded piece? If I run it with a plug I'm going to zip tie the wiring to something non metal, like a vaccuum hose.

Thanks
Yes, there should be a threaded metal piece under the plastic wiring connection. Do yourself a favor and spend the $20 on a new sensor, but if you don't want to go that route for some reason you can get a pipe plug at any hardware store or autoparts store on the planet. It's probably 1/8"NPT.
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by jrussell
They have a basic PCM computer that monitors and (I guess) controls something. The big difference is that they don't have an ECU that controls the engine like newer ones.

EDIT: It's located behind the glove box.
Actually it's next to the battery on intercooled trucks. Non-intercooled trucks have a primitive "black box" on the firewall that runs the WIF light, the KSB, and the intake heaters.

The box behind the glovebox is the RWAL controller.
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by wannadiesel
Actually it's next to the battery on intercooled trucks. Non-intercooled trucks have a primitive "black box" on the firewall that runs the WIF light, the KSB, and the intake heaters.

The box behind the glovebox is the RWAL controller.
Geez...I guess that's good to know.

What does the RWAL controller do?
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by jrussell
What does the RWAL controller do?
Rear Wheel Anti-Lock
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 11:54 PM
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Ok so I got my powersteering all finished up (nice and smooth ) and I went down to Cummins, since they are the only place open at 10:00PM on a friday and they wanted $74.xx for it and it had to be ordered. I kinda figured it would be outrageous anyways.

Again, beating a dead horse, am I safe to run it as it is for an extended drive (2.5hours highway each way) or am I asking for this thing to pop out and dump the oil out and cook my motor? I took it out for a short, 5 minute test drive and it was fine so I don't see any problems with it, knock on wood. I checked the oil and it was at the right level.

Thanks

Lucas
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