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brake rotors
need to replace brake rotors on my 3/4 ton. like to get slotted but kind of pricey. rock-auto sells them for $36 Raybestos brand any advice on which brands are better or not?
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Only comment that I can give is stay away from the Made In China rotors. I bought a set of low price rotors from NAPA for my W350 and have regretted it ever since. They warped after the first time I heated them up towing a medium load. One side reads about .003" indicated run out while the opposite side of the same rotor reads .041" TIR. I am waiting for the pads to wear down before I replace them with a good expensive name brand rotor.
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I have some Raybestos drilled and slotted rotors on my Mercedes C55 AMG. I beat the snot out of that car and have yet to warp them. Sure, I haven't towed heavy loads with the C55 but I have been on the brakes from a touch past 160 mph (yes, limiter removed in the tune).
I've tracked the car and turned the rotors blue a time or two but they're still straight with no signs of stress. |
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Im running Frozen Rotors standered not driled or slotted with there carbon matelic pads . Approximately 100k mi on them some towing (odo quit so I don't have an exact number) . About 1/2 life left on the pads . They offer cryo treated in plane(what I have), sltted ,drilled , and slotted driled. IIRC was $30 more per than untreated quality rotors . You can supply your own rotors or theu can treat there parts, I bought thers as shipping boyh ways just added to the price
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where did you get the Frozen rotors
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High Performance Brake Pads and Brake Rotors - Frozen Rotors is there web site w/ no listings for 1st gen I had to call in my order.1-888-323-8456 there #
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I got my drilled and slotted rotors from these people https://brakeperformance.com/
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so sounds like you are pretty happy with the ones from Frozen rotors? I just sent them an email they are $116 each haven't priced out the pads.
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Do I like them? Absolutely
“It provides a complete metallurgical, structural change all the way through the material,” Bond said. Subsequent processing up to 1,000 degrees F doesn’t have an impact on the new structure, she said. Brake Rotors. Automobiles that get a lot of severe use, such as ambulances, police cars, and taxi cabs, go through brake rotors in a hurry. In some cases, they last less than 5,000 miles. The transition is a different process; the material used in brake rotors is pearlite, so the improvement has nothing to do with the austenite-to-martensite transformation that benefits tool steels. That notwithstanding, Diekman said that it’s common for the process to extend the life of a set of rotors by a factor of 4 or 5. One of his customers reported getting 80,000 miles on a set of rotors, a 16-fold improvement. For fleet managers, 300° Below guarantees a 200 percent improvement with a 100 percent refund. Exscrips from : https://www.thefabricator.com/articl...yths-mysteries Top of the line pads will kill rotors(they are more abrasive =more stoping power) , some times at a 1:1 but stop like a vet should. |
well thanks so much for the info. I have too much on my plate rite now and mine are still working but in long hills sure act up. hope later this fall to get at them and will go the same way. locally Lordco want $100 cdn so not a huge difference for the better rotor?
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Originally Posted by cougar
(Post 3363121)
I got my drilled and slotted rotors from these people https://brakeperformance.com/
And in general, what are the slots/drill holes for? Heat dissipation? Improved braking? Summit has Raybestos for $55 ea but doesn't state country of origin. |
Ever since I figured out the Dodge used two rotor thicknesses on the D60 front with the same caliper; I will run the 1.5" rotors down to 1.25"ish.
Also never had a rotor warp on me on the GM/Dodge style Dana 60. |
Originally Posted by u2slow
(Post 3364788)
Ever since I figured out the Dodge used two rotor thicknesses on the D60 front with the same caliper; I will run the 1.5" rotors down to 1.25"ish.
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you want a real upgrade for a few bucks, go with 14" rotors, got 2015 dual piston calipers that are 3 times the size of d-60 calipers, got caliper brackets from torqaxle "big brake conversion" , and calipers from car-part.com salvager, way better stopping, especially moderate braking, alot more with less pressure. anyone else done this?
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You cobble all that together or is there a write up somewhere? Sounds interesting...
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