KRB

Noticed I didn't have tail lights the other night. A few days earlier my dash lights had gone out, which wasn't really a surprise since the dimmer function quit years ago.

So I figured the headlight switch had senesced and ordered a new Mopar unit from Geno's. I installed it yesterday (and managed to break the dash bezel in the process... ) but no change, still have no running lights or dash lights.

I have headlights, turn signals, hazards, brake lights etc. Everything but running lights and license plate lights (that may be a different issue though).

I've checked fuses, bulbs and connections but am obviously overlooking something. May be a bad wire? I did have a bad tail light bulb and replaced that and they all work except the running light circuit.

While I had the dash apart I decided to swap the 2 pod dash gauge for my 3 pod and replace the burned out bulb in the tranny/engine temp gauge AND pull the oem stereo that doesn't work properly for the new unit I got two years ago. My cab is a mess now...

mknittle

You parked in the wrong spot and Murphy climbed up the tailpipe.
My guess would be a ground or headlight switch.

sooty

murphys getting old too. my '92 schematic shows fuse 14 feeds headlight switch for running lights with tan wire going to switch, and black yellow going to lighting, if you have, or can source a test light, check power at fuse, then at h-lite switch, like mknittle pointed out, probably switch, you might be able to wiggle switch to regain temporary activity.

NJTman

Fusable links need to be checked as well..

KRB

Sooty - the #14 fuse isn't blown but I'll check the power in and out now.

NJTman, I sure hope it isn't another fusible link. You know which color one it would be? Everything else seems to work.

I can't imagine it would be the switches since the new one made no difference. My luck it's another fusible link...

mknittle

Why not switch to maxi fuses and dump the automatic problem I mean problematic fusible links.

sooty

shows its grey fuse link. im still running mine, I changed heavier headlight and blower circuits to relays, that made a huge difference in performance, and made the system more dependable.

gyman98

In addition to the suggestions above check the pigtail on the headlight switch for corrosion/burning in the plug. Also wires in the plastic duct above the gauges.

torquefan

x2. When the park lamps quit working, often times the headlight switch and its connector are both damaged. You should be able to see the damage on the terminal side of the connector.

KRB

The #14 fuse isn't getting any power. Not had a chance to probe any further yet. But I suspect the fusible link now.

I didn't notice any heat damage on the headlight switch terminal when I installed the new switch but then again, at the time, I wasn't looking.

Thanks guys,

sooty

yep, fuse link, diagram shows from grey fuse link, wire changes to red/white heading to h-light switch

j_martin

#14 fuse is a 3 amp fuse, after the switch and dimmer, feeding all the dimming lights.

#4 fuse (20A) is the power feed to the running lights (and the dimmer lights) If the power door locks and brake lights work, the fusible link is good.

That particular terminal on the headlight switch is noted for failing.

Check #4 fuse. Then probe it for power, then probe the switch for power and check the terminals.

KRB

Hmm, I have everything BUT running lights and dash lights, Brakelights work, windows etc. The switch is a new OEM part but I didn't check the terminal block that plugs into it, it may have some damage and if it is, it wasn't noticeable upon disassembly but then I wasn't looking either.

Glad it wasn't the fusible link - I don't mind to replace it like mknittle or sooty, I've done one already and probably should for the future.

What is this plastic duct above the gauges you speak of gyman? Is it just a conduit bundle of wires that chaff?

I'll check the pigtail plug and then start backtracking I guess.

Thanks again guys,

KRB

I remember the switch being numbered or lettered. Is there a schematic out there that shows which terminal is the running & gauge lights? Or I guess I can just trace the wires from fuse #14 & 4. I somehow missed #4 when I was troubleshooting, that will be the first thing I check.
Cheers,

sooty

thanks for the correction, I was looking at both tracing colors, and meant to post both fuse numbers.