Ok, I have read the threads but don't have a clear migration path from those nightmare drums in the back and awfull single pissston diskers in the front to disk in the back (single or dual) and at least dual piston calipers in the front.
I saw the Dana 60 conversion for the back, but that won't work on a Dana 70.

I can't seem to keep the rear drums tight enough to keep from frying the fronts. I just put new brake pads on a rotor that went to the metal today, which makes me SICK to do. I need to replace that rotor, so I am looking for slotted units that might last longer.

I'm ready to make a giant driveline brake or toss an anchor out the window when I need to stop!!!!

 

I'm having some brake probs too, so this sounds like the best idea, by far!!

 

I'll use a FERD block for my anchor just to make me feel better!

 

I have replaced the calipers several times, but I'm starting to think I have a flaw on the caliper mount on the drivers side because I keep wasting the inside pad while the other pad shows normal wear.
I'm thinking about polishing the caliper and mount surfaces that mate to keep that caliper from sticking.

Is this a good idea??????

 

Normal theory would say that if the piston is sticking on the piston side, pad is wareing faster then the eather.
If it was the slides that were the problem the the piston would retract and and the out side shoe would ware to fast!

how old is your brake lines?(rubber flex lines) i have heared of the inner lining coming loose and and causing a check valve affect were the pressure is aplyed but when release the inner liner falles into the hole and hold some pressure there!

there not that expencive and worth a try!

You could check this by aplying the brake (w/eng running)with the wheel in the air, and then try to turn it!

 

you mispelled it, pretty sure its fraud (ford). lol

 

I'm not really replying to the polishing question BUT my problems with a caliper behaving weirdly traced down to a worn out inner wheel bearing. I did grind down the notches on the surface where the caliper housing rides. I don't know if it also helped but it did not do any harm.

 

Grinding the caliper mount may make the caliper slide better, but it also increases the end gaps.
This could cause a bumping noise when the brake is applied, when the caliper is not applied the caliper rests on the bottom mount,
when you apply the brake, the calpier moves up and knocks the upper mount which makes a knock sound.
Id try putting a light bead of weld on the wear spots first and then grind it level again. Don't forget to do the same on the wear spot where the inner pad contacts the mount.

 

I've read some threads on other forums about flushing the brake fluid. It can become contaminated and cause sticking pistons in calipers etc. Might want to take a close look at the fluid that comes out when you do the next change up and consider flushing. There's a recommended service interval on system flushing, don't know what it is, but at 13 years on your truck it might be time?

 

Do you the larger chevy pistons in the rears? Pulled this from an older post in DTR:

"The 78 Chevy 1 tons are 1 3/16 dia pistons, Napa part #4637337 is what I used. You will NOT need a scientific equipment to feel the difference."

I do not have these but was planning on putting them on when I replace the rear brake lines and e-brake cables. Also do you have the 3" shoes and 1 ton single wheel 3" drums in the rear? I am not sure if the 3" stuff exsists for the single wheel trucks.

Finally is your truck ABS equipped, if so if the modulator valve okay in the rear frame rail. Mine was turned to rust and it was doubtful it was working!

 

[kiszka6911;1145905]Do you the larger chevy pistons in the rears?

I have been chicken to pull the axles to even look at the back brakes. I think there might be spring damage in there. I do plan on doing the brand x wheel cylinder bomb though..

Also do you have the 3" shoes and 1 ton single wheel 3" drums in the rear? I am not sure if the 3" stuff exsists for the single wheel trucks.

Don't know this either, but I will be fixing that.

Finally is your truck ABS equipped, if so if the modulator valve okay in the rear frame rail. Mine was turned to rust and it was doubtful it was working!

I put in a new dump valve a year or so ago, it's not that. Actually right now my rears are doing their job OK and I have feel in the ebrake.

The problem is now that the truck pulls to the right side after I changed the pads. Also, sometimes it doesn't pull at all. Can't figure out any rhyme or reasong to these problems. I guess I could save up for new rotors (slotted if I can find them) and calipers, and check my wheel bearings while I am in there. I did have them replaced about 5 years ago.

These brake problems are bringing me down.... Did Dodge or anyone else ever put disk brakes on a Dana 70?

 

the 3/4 and one 1ton us the same drum on our fist gen!
the 3/4 us a 2 1/2 wide shoe and the 1ton us the 3"wide shoe

all you have to do is put the 1 ton shoe in a 3/4 ton and its brakes are 1 ton.........I do beleave the wheel sylinder is biger on the 1 ton! and the GM one is a little bit bigger then that.

 

Your info makes a great deal of sense. And you have given me another excuse to pick up the Mig I have been slathering over.

 

You sure that's not NE REPUB-ILLEGITIMI CARBORUNDUM??? My latin is very rusty...

 

Do not automaticly assume a car pulling sharply to one side is a result of the front brakes, rears can and will cause it. As for the calipers not sliding well iv found a nice fix. Remove the pads and rotor apply a generous amount of clover lapping compound and install the caliper, simply move it in and out till you happy with the result. It slicks it up nicely and doesnt remove any metal to speak of. Just make very sure to remove all of the lapping compound.

And if your planning on turning a mig loose on a caliper or the slide, rethink that idea, cast metals under pressure dont react well to being welded unless your very good and know your metal.

The one ton dually came with 1 1/8 wheel kits so updating to the chevy vans is no real improvement, but some of the others might help. I see this a lot, if the brakes dont work throw parts at it or try to upgrade, but simple fact is, they worked and worked right when trucks were new so why now do we need to upgrade just so they will work.

If your brakes do not work (including self adjusters) theres a reason, throwing parts at it or modifying the system is not the answer and is or can be very unsafe. Brakes are a simple hydralic system, you push a cyl in and the cyl on the other end moves, when we go back and look at them that way it usually is easier to fix them.

I dont mean to be a stickler on this but i really have a problem modfding brakes unless the mods are designed for that application, please be carefull doing that.