We've all been there where we do a brake job, crack the line in some shape or form, such as the front caliper replacement, rotted line replacement, or rear wheel cylinders, and I discovered something that I was doing wrong all along.

When I replaced my calipers a few weeks back, I put the new caliper to the existing hoses ( i replaced the hoses back in April) and with the new washers, I buttoned it all up, and started the bleeding process. I bought Napa's "Quality rebuilt calpers" from their "Better line" that I was sold at my local napa store. Nice calipers, as they're powder coated, full hardware kit and come with a limited lifetime warranty.... yada, yada, yada

With new rotors, calipers, pads you would think I was done, right? Well, no.

A couple weeks after I did the install, my drivers side caliper went bad. Granted they gave me a new one no questions asked, but it's a real drag (figuratively speaking, and in reality) when a caliper won't retract and heats the crap out of a brand new rotor. Since the rotor was only .003 out, I let it ride, and replaced the caliper. Brakes work fantastic again, but in the process something clicked about this job, and it related to the last time I changed the calipers. It has to do with the installation process.

I changed the small copper washers with the new calipers, and the first set I did a few weeks back, when I went to bleed them, I couldn't get a firm pedal. Sort of ok, but squishy. Truck stopped, but the pedal was low, and something just wasn't right.... so I took the wheels off, and checked everything out. I realized at the time, that although I tightened the caliper hose bolt to what I thought was a good torque, it was actually seeping air into the hose/ caliper each time I hit the brakes. I tightened up the bolt a last "snug" twist, and re-bled. This time, firm pedal, and no brake squishyness.

So....

When I replaced the defective napa caliper yesterday, the same scenario happened. This time, before I took the truck off of the stands, I let it sit for a few, started it up, and the pedal was all squishy. I re-torques the caliper hose bolt, and re-bled. When I'm re-torquing them, I'm not using a socket, but a wrench while the caliper is actually mounted to the axle. This prevents it from moving while tightening the bolt. Worked great...

So.... what will I make sure I do next time? ??? Make sure that caliper bolt is TIGHT.... and no squishy pedal..

I know ..... for a fact... that this was my original problem with my other CTD that I had. Took me forever to get the brakes right, and all along it was the air seeping back in to the line because of a not fully tightened bolt. The copper must conform to those circular lines on the caliper and hose in order to seal itself shut...


Hope this helps.....


BTW... Don't snap that bolt off. You'll be back there buying another caliper.

 

Great tip...and a good reminder as I have mine torn apart now too.

However, I'm a little disappointed at the minimal amount of corny humor normally embedded in your posts. So, I'll let this one slip, but do better next time, alright?


--Eric

 

Hahahahahaha he called you corny!

 

Dude, you crack me up....

Sorry, I'll do better next time....

I am corny..... ask my wife...... uh,... well, or maybe my girlfriend....

 

another tip, I've found that makes it a whole lot easier....

In this post, https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...6&d=1320054923 I have a gizmo that one of the guys here told me about and I duplicated.... Common tool, but I just used to dribble my brake fluid out all over the ground. Since I'm in my mid 40's, I'm sure at one time in the near future, this issue of dribbling fluids will require me to wear depends.... but I digress...

I take the collection gizmo, and I elevate it above the caliper, so the hose sits upwards towards the inner fender well, vs down on the ground. Simply by having my hose point northwards, the fluid fills it, (wow, sounds familiar), and you can view the bubbles in the brake fluid, and have a clearer indicator of whether or not you have any air left in the system...

 

I don't care how far away you are from me or if we ever meet again but you will never live that down if I ever catch wind of that.

 

I'm confused...

Does this mean when I go to Bills house to hang out, and you show up, that you're going to request that I drop trau to show you I'm not wearing diapers ?



Well, although it sounds like an interesting time, I'm just not swinging that way...

But thanks for asking !

 

Not in the slightest. Didn't know you were coming down this way either. I meant witty comments and endless banter would ensue. The fact that that was your first thought was to drop your pants is rather unsettling..


End thread derail

 

NJT, I am planning on a full front-end brake replacement as soon as money allows for the front of my 93,rotors are badly grooved, and I figure might as well replace the calipers while I am at it.
if you still have the part numbers from NAPA on the rotors, hoses and calipers, it would save me having to dig them up...hint hint...

 

Dang nabbit, man ! You're lazier than my wife in front of a box of oreo cookies and a gallon of milk...


Geesh !


Realty is that there are two different rotors for the same truck, so you need to figure out which casting you have. You will have to look up your truck.

Brake hoses are the different, and I'd have to look up a receipt from April.... Sorry.

If the rotors are not the one's listed below, then the studs are probably the wrong ones too..

My truck part #'s

Rotors 4882843
SE4717 caliper
SE4718 Caliper
610363 Studs

 

Thats the problem, I cant get NAPA to give me a part number on the rotors.. tho I admit, since I am not ready to buy them, I havent tryed to hard yet..

 

Not really unsettling consider that Scoobie Doo Depends are just out this year. Besides, if that were to happen, it would be for the ladies...

 

You're right


.... although my truck is a 92.. and 4x4,
Online parts catalog with part numbers and pricing:

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Re...22043&Ne=25000

Your truck is here:

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Re...00&Ntk=Keyword


You took up 25 seconds of my time, my friend. Time for you to help someone else and give up 25 seconds of your time for them...

Pay it FORWARDS

 

Thanks for the info, I have pads, calipers, and fluid here, the hoses and the rotors are still at NAPA, and the rotors should be getting checked for run-out before I pick them up.

 

Good idea.

My rotor (on the drivers side) warped just slightly due to the bad caliper I've been driving around on for the last 2 weeks. .003 out. Since I was in a hurry, I just put the truck back together. I can't notice any pulsating, so I guess there is a tolerance level for being out of round...

What concerns me about rotors in general, is that you put them on, and they're true. A few weeks of driving, and the question becomes .... are they now out of spec because they've been heated up and used ? I really don't know, other than the feedback from the pedal.

I'm amazed at how well these trucks will actually stop if everything works as it should. Even though my antilock valve is still in the rear system, my rear brakes lock up. I guess it doesn't work properly. Could also be that I pretty much drive around empty cargo'd.... We'll see this winter when I load up the ballast for clearing the white stuff...

Have fun doing your brakes.