1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

Bottom door hinge fix

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 11, 2015 | 06:56 PM
  #1  
Coffeelapburns5's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 4
Likes: 1
From: Sonoma/Napa
Bottom door hinge fix

Hey guys just curious has anyone ever developed a fix for the bottom of the door hinges that seem to inevitably overtime crack and start to pull the bracket from the inside out? I have heard of people welding metal plates on each side to reinforce it but its starting to become more of an effort to get the drivers side door to close fully
Reply
Old Oct 11, 2015 | 09:15 PM
  #2  
j_martin's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,479
Likes: 211
From: Isanti, MN
Originally Posted by Coffeelapburns5
Hey guys just curious has anyone ever developed a fix for the bottom of the door hinges that seem to inevitably overtime crack and start to pull the bracket from the inside out? I have heard of people welding metal plates on each side to reinforce it but its starting to become more of an effort to get the drivers side door to close fully
I took the threaded plate out of the door, ground off locating tabs that were in the way, and fabricated a new, larger plate using all the flat area I could. When I put it together, the hinge drew everything back to where it's supposed to be.
Reply
Old Oct 11, 2015 | 09:44 PM
  #3  
Coffeelapburns5's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 4
Likes: 1
From: Sonoma/Napa
That sounds like it would work, do you have any pictures of when you did it or of the final outcome? Also was yours already busting out when you did this
Reply
Old Oct 12, 2015 | 01:48 AM
  #4  
thrashingcows's Avatar
Registered User
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 7,265
Likes: 1,346
From: Prince George, BC
Page 37 in my build thread shows you what I had to do to fix my drivers door, and the reinforcement plate I made.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...305923/page37/
Reply
Old Oct 12, 2015 | 07:15 AM
  #5  
j_martin's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,479
Likes: 211
From: Isanti, MN
Originally Posted by Coffeelapburns5
That sounds like it would work, do you have any pictures of when you did it or of the final outcome? Also was yours already busting out when you did this
Door got caught in a 50 mph wind gust and ripped it pretty good. I didn't take pictues.

If you look at it, you'll see a relatively small threaded backer plate held in by 2 or 3 crimped tabs. Pry it out and grind off the tabs, and there's an irregular shaped flat spot about twice as big. Fashion a plate out of 3/16" or 1/4" plate to fit that space, drill and tap the hole pattern, and put it back together. The force of assembly will pull the metal back into place.

Some folks pull it in and weld it before they replace the backer, but I didn't. Seems to be holding fine.

The lower hinge stop is the only stop on these things. Forces there could be measured in tons, which is why they tear out.
Reply
Old Oct 12, 2015 | 04:53 PM
  #6  
Coffeelapburns5's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 4
Likes: 1
From: Sonoma/Napa
Yes like thrashingcows posted on his write up he did the welding on the outside edges, but even with that plate with the tabs removed and then the metal sheets put in place did either of you guys have to replace the hinge itself or use a better type? I don't think mine is that bad but still couldn't find anywhere that offered the hinge and would hate to have it come down to the dreaded s t e a l e r-ship
Attached Thumbnails Bottom door hinge fix-20151012_140542.jpeg  
Reply
Old Oct 12, 2015 | 07:35 PM
  #7  
j_martin's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,479
Likes: 211
From: Isanti, MN
Originally Posted by Coffeelapburns5
Yes like thrashingcows posted on his write up he did the welding on the outside edges, but even with that plate with the tabs removed and then the metal sheets put in place did either of you guys have to replace the hinge itself or use a better type? I don't think mine is that bad but still couldn't find anywhere that offered the hinge and would hate to have it come down to the dreaded s t e a l e r-ship
The hinge are rugged as an anchor. There after market pin and bushing kits for them quite reasonably priced. That takes the slop out of em.
Reply
Old Oct 13, 2015 | 10:25 PM
  #8  
thrashingcows's Avatar
Registered User
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 7,265
Likes: 1,346
From: Prince George, BC
Originally Posted by j_martin
The hinge are rugged as an anchor. There after market pin and bushing kits for them quite reasonably priced. That takes the slop out of em.
I put a set of pins and bushings in mine...and less then two years later they need to be re-done.
Reply
Old Oct 14, 2015 | 10:38 AM
  #9  
mknittle's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 4,918
Likes: 603
From: Tulsa, OK
Originally Posted by thrashingcows
I put a set of pins and bushings in mine...and less then two years later they need to be re-done.
I bet the bushings were the short bronze ones.
Reply
Old Oct 14, 2015 | 12:15 PM
  #10  
j_martin's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,479
Likes: 211
From: Isanti, MN
Originally Posted by mknittle
I bet the bushings were the short bronze ones.
What do you recommend, and where do I get them
Reply
Old Oct 14, 2015 | 06:28 PM
  #11  
mknittle's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 4,918
Likes: 603
From: Tulsa, OK
Originally Posted by j_martin
What do you recommend, and where do I get them
I don't have a readily available alternative in mind yet. But I think the bronze bushings in the kits don't have enough surface area to last long.
I need to dig out my extra set and do some thinking.
Wish I still had access to a lathe.
Reply
Old Oct 14, 2015 | 06:47 PM
  #12  
j_martin's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,479
Likes: 211
From: Isanti, MN
Originally Posted by mknittle
I don't have a readily available alternative in mind yet. But I think the bronze bushings in the kits don't have enough surface area to last long.
I need to dig out my extra set and do some thinking.
Wish I still had access to a lathe.
Mic em. I bet there's some commodity bushings out there, like fleabay or McMasters. How does the pin wear?
Reply
Old Oct 14, 2015 | 11:09 PM
  #13  
thrashingcows's Avatar
Registered User
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 7,265
Likes: 1,346
From: Prince George, BC
Pin doesn't seem to wear, just the cheapy bronze bushing. And Yes Mark they were the ones from the "Help" rack at the parts store.

Good idea Mr. Martin...finding them in a harder material would definitely help.
Reply
Old Oct 15, 2015 | 03:00 AM
  #14  
boeingguy's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 189
Likes: 36
From: North carolina
Theres a guy on ebay aka (mystery man) , who also used to be on here, that makes a fully enclosed hinge with grease fittings an all. all high quality stuff never wear out. he also sells the best rear main seals for these engs (no leaks), yes better than original.
Reply
Old Oct 15, 2015 | 08:34 AM
  #15  
mknittle's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 4,918
Likes: 603
From: Tulsa, OK
Originally Posted by j_martin
Mic em. I bet there's some commodity bushings out there, like fleabay or McMasters. How does the pin wear?
That was what I was thinking. and possibly a longer bushing in a a tube that encloses the pin. gresable would be a bonus.
Reply



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:41 PM.