Blown Head Gasket?
#46
Registered User
Because the example was an ARP product they request the block and head threads to be chased not cut before their head studs are installed. The product is from ARP, so that could be why they are expensive. Although I've seen some other brands of chasing taps that are close to the same price..
#48
Registered User
So this turned into a "Well, thats not so bad" moment.
I kept going over this in my head for the last few days and it really was not what I thought, I was actually relieved, it could have been a lot worse.
When I took the exhaust manifold off,
I was expecting to see oil leaking from the exhaust on cylinder #5
But instead I see a dry exhaust port, no sign of any leaking oil.
But how is the oil getting on the side of the head?
But I did find that I am blowing lube oil out the back of my turbo, Now I can see why it is smoking,
My first clue was the big puddle of oil from my exhaust pipe.
I will probably have to change the oil in my muffler next.
Now I can see how the oil is leaking from the turbo and why it is smoking,
but how is the oil getting on the head and down the side of the block?
There does not appear to be any oil leaking externally from the side of the turbo where it could get on the engine.
And I can see it is not the valve guides.
So now, where can I find a decent turbo.
How difficult is it to rebuild, there is almost no side play in the compressor shaft.
I have a Holset dealer nearby where I can get parts.
Does the bearing and seal come as one assembly?
Jim
I kept going over this in my head for the last few days and it really was not what I thought, I was actually relieved, it could have been a lot worse.
When I took the exhaust manifold off,
I was expecting to see oil leaking from the exhaust on cylinder #5
But instead I see a dry exhaust port, no sign of any leaking oil.
But how is the oil getting on the side of the head?
But I did find that I am blowing lube oil out the back of my turbo, Now I can see why it is smoking,
My first clue was the big puddle of oil from my exhaust pipe.
I will probably have to change the oil in my muffler next.
Now I can see how the oil is leaking from the turbo and why it is smoking,
but how is the oil getting on the head and down the side of the block?
There does not appear to be any oil leaking externally from the side of the turbo where it could get on the engine.
And I can see it is not the valve guides.
So now, where can I find a decent turbo.
How difficult is it to rebuild, there is almost no side play in the compressor shaft.
I have a Holset dealer nearby where I can get parts.
Does the bearing and seal come as one assembly?
Jim
Jim:
I have a few thoughts.
1. At least you know your muffler bearings are well lubricated.
2. The seal between your downpipe and the turbo isn't perfect and any oil that gets in there can be partly blown out there and get on the head.
3. Have you checked the drain line from the turbo to make sure is isn't obstructed? If the drain was obstructed the oil would be forced out past the bearing seals which aren't really seals at all but centrifugal spinners to keep the oil in. DO you see oil in the air side as well?
4. Have you checked the turbo center bearing housing for cracks?
Edwin
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NJTman (01-01-2018)
#49
Registered User
You may have some luck with Noe at OCD if you don't go to your Holset dealer. Dodge Cummins Diesel Service & Repair - Orange County Diesel in HB
What is the shaft end to end play?
You can get a cartridge which is basically the center section of the turbo.
What is the shaft end to end play?
You can get a cartridge which is basically the center section of the turbo.
#51
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What I don't understand is that if the head gasket isn't the issue, why is Jim still pulling the head?
#52
Registered User
Edwin
#53
Administrator
Thread Starter
I am still pulling the head off and replacing the gasket, there has been a slight coolant leak near the front side and I already have the parts for it.
After having to buy a new 18mm socket because I cannot find any of mine, I just came in from loosening all of the head bolts and I find the bolts near the exhaust port of #5, I had to crank it all of the way out,
it is all gummed up with what looks like carbon, something must have seeped into the threads, all of the other head bolts unscrewed easily by finger once they were loosened.
I'll find out in awhile once the head is off.
I am also going to replace the tappet cover gasket just because only the injection pump is in the way now and that is easy to remove.
No more ,surprises, please..
Tomorrow I will call BECS and see how much an overhaul kit or a complete cartridge will cost, Wish I could find a 14cm housing for it now while it is apart.
I was planning on having it all torn down by today but my morning started out with an emergency call,
somehow the water heater vent pipe got dislodged from the water heater and the tenants are in the ER with CO poisoning.
I will keep you informed as this progresses.
Jim
#54
Registered User
I was planning on having it all torn down by today but my morning started out with an emergency call,
somehow the water heater vent pipe got dislodged from the water heater and the tenants are in the ER with CO poisoning.
I will keep you informed as this progresses.
Jim
somehow the water heater vent pipe got dislodged from the water heater and the tenants are in the ER with CO poisoning.
I will keep you informed as this progresses.
Jim
#55
Administrator
Thread Starter
Ok,
I hope this is an easy question,
What is the difference between a Holset H1C and a H1D turbocharger?
turbine blades? shaft size?
Jim
I hope this is an easy question,
What is the difference between a Holset H1C and a H1D turbocharger?
turbine blades? shaft size?
Jim
#56
Registered User
I don't know but In googling I did find a rebuild kit for $87.
Holset Rebuild Kit H1C, WH1C, H1B, H2A, H1D Turbochargers - XSBoost Turbochargers
How are you doing. How's the CO situation?
Edwin
Holset Rebuild Kit H1C, WH1C, H1B, H2A, H1D Turbochargers - XSBoost Turbochargers
How are you doing. How's the CO situation?
Edwin
#57
Registered User
#59
Registered User
#60
Administrator
Thread Starter
I have my engine almost back together but now I am starting to second guess the torque specs I was using,
It has only taken,
Replaced cylinder head,
Not blown but somehow leaking head gasket.
Turbocharger rebuilt included all parts from Holset kit, housing and turbine wheel were media blasted, rotating parts were balanced.
After smashing my finger and cracking the screen on my smartphone when I dropped it after a glancing blow from my own hammer hit my finger,
I decided it would be wiser to let BECS do the repairs.
Turbo cost me $400.00 with a warranty,
I also had them pop test my injectors and found 4 of the 6 were weak, so they were ultrasonically cleaned reset and all new parts to reinstall, that cost another $200.00
HOW DO I TORQUE MY HEAD BOLTS? on my 1991 5.9 Cummins
Is this correct?
STEP ONE: Tighten all bolts, in sequence as shown below, to 66 ft/lbs torque. Check the torque. If lower than 66 ft/lbs, tighten to this torque.
STEP TWO: Tighten all the long bolts (nos 4, 5, 12, 13, 20 and 21), in sequence to 89 ft/lbs. Check the torque. If lower than 89 ft/lbs, tighten to this torque.
STEP THREE: Tighten all bolts, in sequence an additional 90 degrees. (Thanks BC847)
If I am reading this correctly, one head bolt in the corner of the cylinder would be torqued to a higher value than the remaining bolts in the cylinder?
I was also told to torque all of the bolts to 89 ft/lb then 90*.
I make myself more work when I think.
I will get some pictures up in awhile.
Jim
It has only taken,
Replaced cylinder head,
Not blown but somehow leaking head gasket.
Turbocharger rebuilt included all parts from Holset kit, housing and turbine wheel were media blasted, rotating parts were balanced.
After smashing my finger and cracking the screen on my smartphone when I dropped it after a glancing blow from my own hammer hit my finger,
I decided it would be wiser to let BECS do the repairs.
Turbo cost me $400.00 with a warranty,
I also had them pop test my injectors and found 4 of the 6 were weak, so they were ultrasonically cleaned reset and all new parts to reinstall, that cost another $200.00
HOW DO I TORQUE MY HEAD BOLTS? on my 1991 5.9 Cummins
Is this correct?
STEP ONE: Tighten all bolts, in sequence as shown below, to 66 ft/lbs torque. Check the torque. If lower than 66 ft/lbs, tighten to this torque.
STEP TWO: Tighten all the long bolts (nos 4, 5, 12, 13, 20 and 21), in sequence to 89 ft/lbs. Check the torque. If lower than 89 ft/lbs, tighten to this torque.
STEP THREE: Tighten all bolts, in sequence an additional 90 degrees. (Thanks BC847)
If I am reading this correctly, one head bolt in the corner of the cylinder would be torqued to a higher value than the remaining bolts in the cylinder?
I was also told to torque all of the bolts to 89 ft/lb then 90*.
I make myself more work when I think.
I will get some pictures up in awhile.
Jim