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Blown Head Gasket?

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Old 10-29-2017, 11:13 AM   #16  
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Jim,
As others have mentioned, your symptoms isn't a head gasket issue. Most likely the fuel pin in injection pump is not moving as should.
As for your leak on side of engine, it is coming from above your head gasket cyl head/block surface, so it is either an inj or inj return fuel leak or valve cover gasket oil leak.
Very small amount with dust/dirt accumulation/build up.
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Old 10-29-2017, 02:09 PM   #17  
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Yes! I think you should check that valve cover(s) on and near #5. I don't think the oil could be coming up around the bolt because there's no oil there and the bolt hole doesn't go through usually. Hopefully it's just a bad cover gasket. Those are easy to change.

Edwin
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Old 10-29-2017, 03:18 PM   #18  
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Get the blue fel pro ones. If you get them from O'rileys, and if they tear, they fall under warranty, lol. My local O'rileys switched mine out for new, without me asking for a warranty. I was in there to buy a replacement. They asked if I originally bought them there, I said yes, and I went home with a new one!
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Old 10-29-2017, 11:02 PM   #19  
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Ok,
Just went out and looked again, it is definitely not leaking from the valve cover, injector, high pressure or return line however there looks to be oil leaking out from the exhaust port, I wiped along the side of the head by the injector using a paper towel and it is clean.
So it looks like it is leaking from the port and forward around the head bolt, not where you would think the blast from the fan would put it.
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Old 10-29-2017, 11:29 PM   #20  
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Jim,

My guess, for what it's worth: All of that oily mess is coming out of the #5 exhaust port. Either that injector is bad, or there is a crack in the head, leak in the head gasket, etc., at that cylinder. I would pull that injector and see if it sheds any light on the situation.
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Old 11-02-2017, 04:36 PM   #21  
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This morning after I took my daughter to the dentist, it started smoking again, it lasted about 15 minutes and then it stopped smoking again, it seems to be start out gray go black and then lighten up before it goes away, the exhaust is a bit strong.
I got out and looked and it does not seem to be oil smoke, not blue.
Still baffled, but I still think it is fuel related.



I have removed the air filter and checked for any obstructions, before I had somehow sucked up a hand towel off the road and it was wrapped around the filter, even then it did not run bad.

Today I took off the crossover pipe and checked to see if there was any oil,
it was dry.

Could it have anything to do with the KSB? it was about 80*

Jim
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Old 11-03-2017, 08:04 PM   #22  
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No ideas?

Today I touched the side of the truck by the fender and 1/4 panel it has a film of soot, when you touch it is dry and black, not oily feeling.

Would a cracked valve guide cause an increase in crankcase pressure?
Jim
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Old 11-03-2017, 10:03 PM   #23  
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I personally don't have any input to give you, Jim. I apologize
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Old 11-05-2017, 09:23 PM   #24  
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That photo above is with the truck idling, correct? And you were getting that without the engine racing or stumbling? It pretty much has to be a bad injector, though I would expect the engine to be stumbling badly at low speeds. There must be a bunch of fuel being dumped without atomizing properly to make that kind of smoke at low speed no load. . .
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Old 11-05-2017, 11:34 PM   #25  
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I started the truck and pulled out of the parking, I had reved it up a bit in neutral to try and clear it.

The picture is in neutral idling but had just been reved.

It still runs smoothly but also I have just noticed that my fuel mileage has dropped significantly down to 12-13 mpg

I will try and at least pull #5 injector to see if it wet or fouled.
Jim
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Old 11-07-2017, 12:31 AM   #26  
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Sounds like an unburned fuel issue of either a bad injection nozzle or a slim chance of a pump issue. I wouldn't recomend running it much either way as you may be washing all the oil off of the crosshatching in your problem cylinder.
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Old 12-26-2017, 06:28 AM   #27  
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So now it is smoking pretty much all the time, it seems the worst is when I come down to an idle like when I get off the freeway and am sitting at a stop light, all the cars around me disappear.

now it is wet oily smelling smoke, and the exhaust port from #5 is wet with oil.

I checked the valve adjustment last week and with a mirror I can not see some of the valve stem seals between the coils and dampers, this is where I think the oil is getting into the cylinder.

So here is the next question,

I bought a good reworked head, from jimbo486 in the OC and I am in the process of getting the support parts,

I will be calling Cummins today.
Can I pull the head leaving most of the engine intact?

After removing the, injector lines, injectors, valve covers, crossover pipe, turbo and all of its support, fan, alternator, can I remove the head?
But now would be a good time to fix a few of the leaks I guess.

Or do I need to remove the VE pump, oil cooler ect.

Can I remove the pushrods and leave the tappets and side cover alone?

How about the expansion plugs? is there a stainless one I can put on the back of the head?

What is preferred head gasket?

Is there a true Cummins Head Gasket?

Mahle,

FelPro (I have heard the horror stories)

Are there any special tools needed for this job?

I cannot see why anyone would purposely want their truck to smoke.

Jim
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Old 12-26-2017, 11:10 AM   #28  
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Jim it's not that hard, just heavy. You will need to unbolt anything that is attached to the head that you aren't going to take with it. The VE can stay put, the lines need to be removed to avoid damage. You can leave the exhaust manifold and turbo on it I believe, just disconnect everything from it. You will also need to remove the rocker assemblies and the pushrods. Don't even worry about the lifters, they aren't going anywhere.

I would suggest you mark or organize everything so that they go back in the same position, rockers, pushrods etc. as they have worn together and swapping them around could induce some extra/premature wear.

Brass freeze plugs are available in most any size and they would be the best bet. Use the Cummins gasket or the Dodge gasket if still available is going to be the same Cummins part. One might be cheaper though.
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Old 12-26-2017, 11:35 AM   #29  
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Also do not use those Rol Loc discs on a dye grinder to clean the mating surfaces of the head or block. They can destroy it pretty easy plus that fiberglass goes flying everywhere and is impossible to get it all cleaned out. It will destroy bearings.
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Old 12-26-2017, 08:47 PM   #30  
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I called Cummins Cal Pacific in Irvine,

Ouch..


1) Head Gasket Set $329.24
12) Valve Stem Retainers @ $3.68 each
1) Tappet Cover Gasket, $22.20
6) Tappet Cover Bolt Seals @ $4.22 each
$420.92+ tax


Head Bolts,
6) exhaust side @ $6.92 each,
14) [email protected] $6.59 each
6) rocker hold down @ $10.31 each
$195.64 + tax

Torque for the head bolts 59ftlb. is this correct?

He said the head gasket is genuine Cummins and is over half the price of the set.

Is this a fair price?
Is there any other place I can get these for a better price, all of the other parts I would need to get from Cummins anyway.

Thanks Jim
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