BHAF element
 

What are the part numbers of any of the acceptable elements, how do the different models differ in construction, CFM and inlet size?

Where have you found the best prices?

Have you found the inlet and turbo sounds any louder, by how much?
Is there a pre-filter or an outerwear avalible for them? Where?

Thanks Jim

I use Napa's 2790. I get it for around $42 as I have a discount because we buy over $1000 of filters a year.

When I had my stock '93, I went from no turbo noise to a fairly loud whistle. I really don't know how to describe the increase.

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Big...HAF-p/bhaf.htm

The above place has covers.

i have a fleetguard that I got from amazon for less than 50. The outerwear is awesome. Water just beads right off.
Duralite B105006
FleetGuard AH19037
NAPA 2790
WIX 42790
Donaldson B105006
Baldwin PA2820
Hastings AF1012

I bought the Donaldson B105006 off ebay was 45 plus shipping. These are the specs on it:
Air Filters Product Attributes
Outlet Diameter: 4.00 Inches (102 MM)
Body Diameter: 10.50 Inches (267 MM)
Body Length: 10.50 Inches (267 MM)
Efficiency: 99.9 Percent
Efficiency Test Std: ISO 5011
Rated Flow LR: 450 CFM (12.74 CMM)
Rated Flow MR: 590 CFM (16.7 CMM)
Rated Flow HR: 680 CFM (19.24 CMM)
Restriction LR: 4 In H2O (101.6 MM H2O)
Restriction MR: 6 In H2O (152.4 MM H2O)
Restriction HR: 8 In H2O (203.2 MM H2O)
Application Note: ISUZU X14210031, LEROI 438671
Primary Application: CUMMINS 3912986

Howdy All,

Is there a reason NOT to use the K & N for our application?

K&N High Flow Replacement Air Filter E-1023

I was thinking one of these with an "Outerwear 20-1085-01" over it should work just fine.

Am I wrong?

Show me the way oh Guru's of Carbon Replacement... :D

Vinny

The issue with viscous style (k&n) is the turbo gets the oil from the filter on the compressor wheel and gums up. That's why I switched to a dry element.

Thanks for the reply...

I've not personally had that happen in any of my other turbo vehicles that I use 'oiled element' filters in, nor have I heard it from any of my friends who drive and race turbo'd cars...

I wonder if, and why, it is specific to Diesel turbo vehicles? :confused:


Vinny

I don't think so. I've seen NA engines get oil from the filter element in the plenum. It's from over oiling them.

The oiled cotton type filter (K&N) is way less efficient at removing dust particles than a dry filter. About the only thing that'll kill one of these engines is dirty air.

Thanks again,

In the past I've have ALSO heard that the reason they're less restrictive is they don't filter as well. That's why I asked...

I've also been told not to clean and re-oil them too often, because they'll filter better as they get dirty.

'Back in the day' I always used a foam pre-filter on my motorcycle air filters.


Soooooo, I did a little homework.

The "Big Three" automakers don't have a "spec" for particle size when it comes to air filtration.
That seems lacking on so many levels...

Depending on the model of Filter, K&N says their filters are between 90% and 96% efficient.

K&N also says their pre-filter wrap stops up to 90% of particulate matter.
So, between the two, the K&N with the wrap on it will not only completely stop dirt from getting in...it will actually be pulling dirt out of my engine! [duhhh]

Baldwin says...again depending on model, 98% to 99.9% (I only called Baldwin, cause I can get a Baldwin for $50/free shipping on ebay).

Baldwin = 565 CFM

K&N = 1400 CFM
No numbers on how much the pre-wrap will bring this number down. I'm guessing 200-400 CFM.

Outerwear says their pre-filter 'bags' are good to filter 5/1000's of an inch...so,bugs, birds, small shrubs. [laugh]
Actually they're good to the thickness of a human hair..and of course they're water resistant.

Our engines need from around 550 to 1000 CFM or more depending on mods...
I'd guess most who've the BHAF mod have also done a few other mods as well.
I'm thinkin' quite a few set-ups probably need more than 565 CFM.
I'm thinkin *I* need a bit more than 565 CFM.

After doing my homework, I'm thinking a "Airforce" wrapped (K&N's foam pre-filter wrap) K&N air filter with an "Outerwear"pre-filter over the whole mess will be just as efficient, particulate-wise, as any paper filter...
And, it should breathe around twice as much air in the process...

Thanks for your replies,
Vinny

No. With the pre-filter, the main filter will still let 10% of the remaining 10% through, or 1% of the total.

In other words, if you have 100 dirt particles, 10 will get through the pre-filter. Of those 10, 1 will get through the main filter.

Yea...

It was a joke. Hence the emoticon. :rolleyes:

Vinny

Vinny do you happen to have the spec/dimensions for the K&N application for our trucks? K&N site has pre filter wraps plus different colors but they list them to fit over certain dimensions vs a filter part #

I agree with Mr. Martin. I like to point out too...If these filters are so great...why does the commercial trucking industry not use them?? ;)

Yes you have to change the paper filters more often...BUT...you are also not allowing detrimental particulate matter into your motor.

The factor you're missing is that particles have different sizes. The pre-filter gets the big ones, and the main filter won't get as many of the remaining fine particles as it would if you counted stopping the big ones.

In other words, if it's 90% efficient at removing all particles, it'll be somewhat, probably considerably less efficient at removing fine particles.

Fact is, the oiled cotton filters let a lot of fine particulate through, and that abrasive dust removes metal from critical engine parts.