When I finally get the 90 model engine transplanted in the 1/2 ton (got the dana 70 swapped in already, man that things a hoss), what do I need to get it running electrically? I know I can do without the grid heaters, but the shutdown solenoid needs power and the ksb? How about the brain box on the firewall? I would like the engine to be completely mechanical if possible.

 

I don't think it needs anything in the way of electrical power to run if you plug the shutdown solenoid and bump start it. But yeah, those two things prolly minimum.

 

I shut mine down with a pull cable connected to the emergency shut down lever. The shutdown solinoid has had the plunger and the spring removed. The engine will run with the keys in my pocket but, nothing else electrical. What type of altenator are you going to run? The factory one uses the PCM for a regulator. Also is the cold start solinoid needs power to function and I believe it too is controlled by the PCM and a temperature sensor on the head or block, I cannot remember which.

 

I used the leftover 12V choke wire to power the shutdown relay, hooked up the temp and oil senders and it fired right up. The alternator on the 90 should work fine with stock regulator and dual field wires. Be careful of the light duty charge wire though, the diesel alt puts out more amps than a stock gasser and will fry the wire all the way to the amp guage in the dash. I bypassed the amp guage and went directly to the battery with an 8g wire with 2 16g fusible links. As for the control box, delete it and tuck the wires away, it only runs the ignition on a gasser. Good luck, that thing will be a handful when it is done.

 

Use the coil wire on the gasser to run the KSB and the shutdown solenoid. You can gut the shutdown solenoid and use a pull cable if you want.

Both trucks have the VR on the firewall so that will be a no-brainer to hook up.

 

he's gonna need the coil tho, so he can use it to ignite exhast gasses and look like that sweet afterburner setup on the 08 frerds....

 

If you want to shut off the engine with your key, then all you need to power is the shutdown/run solenoid. The brain box on the firewall controls the heater grid on the early trucks. If you choose to not run them, don't worry about the box. The early non-intercooled trucks are the easiest to swap, they have the old style externally regulated alternators and grid heater is not controlled by a PCM.

 

couldn't you wire the grid heaters with a momentary switch?

 

If you ran the switch with the grid heater relays I guess you could, but without relays you would need a real big switch for the amount of juice the grids use. It also could be bad if it was accidentally switched on by your dog or kid or something without you knowing.

 

yeah I was thinking of keeping the relays for sure. And with a momentary switch, it would be less likely to get left on. You would have to hold it in to warm the grids.

 

dont worry about the handling unless u are running circuit races. with the rite shocks and front springs it will handle just fine. a little nose heavy of course. i have been well pleased with mine for over 5 years.

 

Thanks for all the advice guys, I might eventually hook up the grid heaters but for now I just want to get it running as simply as possible. I need to hear some cummins music so I don't get discouraged with the project. Right now I have to fix a couple cracks around the steering box. I guess that's not just a 4x4 thang.