How To Get More Caster Angle?
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
How To Get More Caster Angle?
1993 Dodge W250. Been working on getting it to drive better for quite some time now. Made a bit of headway, but it's still not where I want it. It just won't self steer like it should. Over the past year or so, I have installed:
new tie rod ends
new drag link
RedHead steering box
new kingpin bushings
new kingpin bearings
new front axle u-joints
new steering box plate
new front springs
new front spring bushings
new swaybar bushings
new shocks
new U-joint in place of the mickey mouse steering shaft coupler
Any part that could negatively affect how it drives, I have replaced. I have adjusted the toe-in to perfection. Tire wear is non-existent on the front.
It drive decent. Still not as good as my last '93 W250 that I had nor as good as any of my other stiff axle push-pull steering vehicles (I.E. crossover steering isn't what I'm looking for). Slightly miffed that it still doesn't drive right, I did some looking and finally found an alignment shop willing to just put it on their rack and give me the readout - which finally shed some light on my problem.
Caster angle on the left hand side was .5° and right hand was just shy of .6° While their book showed this to be within spec, I have found my problem.
More caster makes it self steer better. I need more caster - somewhere in the 5° to 8° range.
How do I go about doing this? Can't use wedges because the passenger side studs for the springs will break, correct? Not sure I'm up to cutting and re-welding the knuckles...
What are my options to get my caster angle up to where it needs to be to drive great?
new tie rod ends
new drag link
RedHead steering box
new kingpin bushings
new kingpin bearings
new front axle u-joints
new steering box plate
new front springs
new front spring bushings
new swaybar bushings
new shocks
new U-joint in place of the mickey mouse steering shaft coupler
Any part that could negatively affect how it drives, I have replaced. I have adjusted the toe-in to perfection. Tire wear is non-existent on the front.
It drive decent. Still not as good as my last '93 W250 that I had nor as good as any of my other stiff axle push-pull steering vehicles (I.E. crossover steering isn't what I'm looking for). Slightly miffed that it still doesn't drive right, I did some looking and finally found an alignment shop willing to just put it on their rack and give me the readout - which finally shed some light on my problem.
Caster angle on the left hand side was .5° and right hand was just shy of .6° While their book showed this to be within spec, I have found my problem.
More caster makes it self steer better. I need more caster - somewhere in the 5° to 8° range.
How do I go about doing this? Can't use wedges because the passenger side studs for the springs will break, correct? Not sure I'm up to cutting and re-welding the knuckles...
What are my options to get my caster angle up to where it needs to be to drive great?
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Banning, ca same house 73yrs
Posts: 173
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16 Posts
1993 Dodge W250. Been working on getting it to drive better for quite some time now. Made a bit of headway, but it's still not where I want it. It just won't self steer like it should. Over the past year or so, I have installed:
new tie rod ends
new drag link
RedHead steering box
new kingpin bushings
new kingpin bearings
new front axle u-joints
new steering box plate
new front springs
new front spring bushings
new swaybar bushings
new shocks
new U-joint in place of the mickey mouse steering shaft coupler
Any part that could negatively affect how it drives, I have replaced. I have adjusted the toe-in to perfection. Tire wear is non-existent on the front.
It drive decent. Still not as good as my last '93 W250 that I had nor as good as any of my other stiff axle push-pull steering vehicles (I.E. crossover steering isn't what I'm looking for). Slightly miffed that it still doesn't drive right, I did some looking and finally found an alignment shop willing to just put it on their rack and give me the readout - which finally shed some light on my problem.
Caster angle on the left hand side was .5° and right hand was just shy of .6° While their book showed this to be within spec, I have found my problem.
More caster makes it self steer better. I need more caster - somewhere in the 5° to 8° range.
How do I go about doing this? Can't use wedges because the passenger side studs for the springs will break, correct? Not sure I'm up to cutting and re-welding the knuckles...
What are my options to get my caster angle up to where it needs to be to drive great?
new tie rod ends
new drag link
RedHead steering box
new kingpin bushings
new kingpin bearings
new front axle u-joints
new steering box plate
new front springs
new front spring bushings
new swaybar bushings
new shocks
new U-joint in place of the mickey mouse steering shaft coupler
Any part that could negatively affect how it drives, I have replaced. I have adjusted the toe-in to perfection. Tire wear is non-existent on the front.
It drive decent. Still not as good as my last '93 W250 that I had nor as good as any of my other stiff axle push-pull steering vehicles (I.E. crossover steering isn't what I'm looking for). Slightly miffed that it still doesn't drive right, I did some looking and finally found an alignment shop willing to just put it on their rack and give me the readout - which finally shed some light on my problem.
Caster angle on the left hand side was .5° and right hand was just shy of .6° While their book showed this to be within spec, I have found my problem.
More caster makes it self steer better. I need more caster - somewhere in the 5° to 8° range.
How do I go about doing this? Can't use wedges because the passenger side studs for the springs will break, correct? Not sure I'm up to cutting and re-welding the knuckles...
What are my options to get my caster angle up to where it needs to be to drive great?
#4
Registered User
I have angled shims under my '72 Power Wagon with Skyjacker 6 inch springs and the same with my '85 crew with Skyjacker 6 inch front springs.
I have never had problems with those studs breaking on either rig and both have been lifted for a long time. The crew for 13 years the '72 for about 20 years.
I agree if you can find the steal shims go with those.
The aluminum ones tend to break and/or corrode over the years.
The other much more work option would be install a drop front leaf spring hanger, like Jungle of at RCC makes or fab up your own.
I have never had problems with those studs breaking on either rig and both have been lifted for a long time. The crew for 13 years the '72 for about 20 years.
I agree if you can find the steal shims go with those.
The aluminum ones tend to break and/or corrode over the years.
The other much more work option would be install a drop front leaf spring hanger, like Jungle of at RCC makes or fab up your own.
#5
Administrator
1993 Dodge W250. Been working on getting it to drive better for quite some time now. Made a bit of headway, but it's still not where I want it. It just won't self steer like it should. Over the past year or so, I have installed:
new tie rod ends
new drag link
RedHead steering box
new kingpin bushings
new kingpin bearings
new front axle u-joints
new steering box plate
new front springs
new front spring bushings
new swaybar bushings
new shocks
new U-joint in place of the mickey mouse steering shaft coupler
Any part that could negatively affect how it drives, I have replaced. I have adjusted the toe-in to perfection. Tire wear is non-existent on the front.
It drive decent. Still not as good as my last '93 W250 that I had nor as good as any of my other stiff axle push-pull steering vehicles (I.E. crossover steering isn't what I'm looking for). Slightly miffed that it still doesn't drive right, I did some looking and finally found an alignment shop willing to just put it on their rack and give me the readout - which finally shed some light on my problem.
Caster angle on the left hand side was .5° and right hand was just shy of .6° While their book showed this to be within spec, I have found my problem.
More caster makes it self steer better. I need more caster - somewhere in the 5° to 8° range.
How do I go about doing this? Can't use wedges because the passenger side studs for the springs will break, correct? Not sure I'm up to cutting and re-welding the knuckles...
What are my options to get my caster angle up to where it needs to be to drive great?
new tie rod ends
new drag link
RedHead steering box
new kingpin bushings
new kingpin bearings
new front axle u-joints
new steering box plate
new front springs
new front spring bushings
new swaybar bushings
new shocks
new U-joint in place of the mickey mouse steering shaft coupler
Any part that could negatively affect how it drives, I have replaced. I have adjusted the toe-in to perfection. Tire wear is non-existent on the front.
It drive decent. Still not as good as my last '93 W250 that I had nor as good as any of my other stiff axle push-pull steering vehicles (I.E. crossover steering isn't what I'm looking for). Slightly miffed that it still doesn't drive right, I did some looking and finally found an alignment shop willing to just put it on their rack and give me the readout - which finally shed some light on my problem.
Caster angle on the left hand side was .5° and right hand was just shy of .6° While their book showed this to be within spec, I have found my problem.
More caster makes it self steer better. I need more caster - somewhere in the 5° to 8° range.
How do I go about doing this? Can't use wedges because the passenger side studs for the springs will break, correct? Not sure I'm up to cutting and re-welding the knuckles...
What are my options to get my caster angle up to where it needs to be to drive great?
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Longer shackles increase caster. I built my own... with holes for 5", 6", and 7".
Parabolic leafs update - Ramchargercentral.com
Parabolic leafs update - Ramchargercentral.com
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#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
I have angled shims under my '72 Power Wagon with Skyjacker 6 inch springs and the same with my '85 crew with Skyjacker 6 inch front springs.
I have never had problems with those studs breaking on either rig and both have been lifted for a long time. The crew for 13 years the '72 for about 20 years.
I agree if you can find the steal shims go with those.
The aluminum ones tend to break and/or corrode over the years.
I have never had problems with those studs breaking on either rig and both have been lifted for a long time. The crew for 13 years the '72 for about 20 years.
I agree if you can find the steal shims go with those.
The aluminum ones tend to break and/or corrode over the years.
#9
Registered User
If I am picturing the problem you have correctly...Longer shackles at the back of the leaf spring would make your issue worse.
The following users liked this post:
oliver foster (02-06-2018)
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Nope. Bottom of the axle needs to roll forward, top needs to roll back. Longer shackles in the rear would accomplish that, but it looks like I will be going with the 3 piece wedge set.
#12
Registered User
IIRC, I thought of this awhile back, but the math said I would have to make the rear shackle about 6" longer (3" of lift) to get 1° - I don't want that much lift.
Or you can buy a couple: MEVOTECH MS500117 adjustable king-pins.
#13
Registered User
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
But I do really like the adjustable kingpins - more caster without increasing the front driveline angle.
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