swhite832

A couple of months ago the axle nut tried to come off. Luckily it didn't. Had it repaired and it was fine for awhile. Started leaking again recently. I purchased the nut upgrade with the expectation that the cheesy little retainer pin had failed. It did not. I found a little burr left from the original seal that was trashed a couple of months ago. I cleaned it up and all was smooth and normal. I replaced with a new seal and the cheesy locking pin with the locking nuts. Thought I was Joe King Mechanic until I noticed it leaking again tonight. What gives? The axle seems fine. Is there anywhere else this could be leaking from?
I have not checked the breather tube.

dpuckett

Check the breather tube. Is it right or left? Are you putting them in backwards? BTDT, dont feel bad. How deep are you seating the seal? You pre lubing the lip of the seal? Just some questions to put you hopefully on the right path.

ALso check the bearing riding surface. I have one on a C&C axle tha tis buggered up, and wouldnt hold a seal. Of course, I didnt realize til AFTER I bought the D80, drove to Iowa and got it installed that the vent tube had been replaced by a plug by the previous owner/ nitwit.

Daniel

swhite832

It is left rear...I may have put the seal in backwards. How do you tell? I am seating it flush. I am prelubing. It is/was a Timkin seal. Both sides look the same. I put the seal on where the rubber "flap" would slide on the axle without rolling over(make sense?). Basically the hollow portion towards the bearings.

paccool

Sounds like you need a "Speedy sleeve" installed to give a smooth surface for the seal to ride against. It's a very thin stainless steel tube that installs over the area of the housing that the seal rides against. I had to install them on both sides of my 93. You can get them at a bearing supply house.

BearKiller

Usually, a persistent axle-seal leak is a sure sign of a bad wheel-bearing.

Check the bearings and races in that hub, very thoroughly.

Also, an out-of-adjustment bearing retainer nut can cause this.

swhite832

Could it be, since the hub ran (loose), for who knows how long, that the race and bearing are worn allowing the hub to bounce on the spindle? If that were the case shouldn't I feel "play" in the duals while on jacks.

BearKiller

If that be the case, I would replace all bearings/races in that hub.

Since you have tightened the adjustment nut, then, NO, you won't be able to feel play, but it will be there when you are driving.

If a bearing ever needs "tightening", that bearing, one or the other, or both, needs replacing, along with the races.

For a bearing to loosen, it has to have worn; and, once worn enough for it to be noticed, the hard-surface is already gone.

You can tighten a loose bearing, and get by for a few weeks; but, it's demise has already been set in motion.

johnny5.9

A speedi-sleeve fixed mine right up. I didn't like the price you pay for them but they sure do work and it's cheaper than a new axle.

willieboy

Definitely check the vent, that was my problem.

swhite832

I pulled everything out...again. The new seal I put in was slightly cupped upon removing it. There was still some rough spots on the bottom of the spindle, which I smoothed out. I am replacing all bearings, races, and a new seal. I am not sure how it became cupped. I will check the breather tube before it goes back together.

dpuckett

ALso, I bottom the seal into the housing when I install it. It gives it about a 1/8-1/4in gap, and I KNOW it is level/ even all around. Sounds like you had it in there right. On the duallies, there is a cover over the hollow part, so I was installing them backwards withough knowing it til I looked at another truck.

DP