I put them flush, but I don't thank a little inset would hurt anything. I'll try to find the numbers, but, on mine the front seal and rear seal are very similar. They look identical, but when you put them together, they were different. I had similar problems the first time I did mine, but I wrote it off as damage during assembly. These drums are kinda' heavy ...Mark

 

Mark,

Pulled both drums today.

Both seals were in pieces. The rubber ring fell off of the housing, just like before.

I measured the spindle, and it's 2 7/8" in diameter and the seals I mentioned before from national both fit.

So, this time I installed the other seal which has the slightly larger diameter opening in the seal. I test fit it prior to install, and it, just like the other seal, fit right on. This time, it fit a little less tight, but really didn't have any play. I installed both new seals in the rear, but it was getting dark, and my wife and I are going out to dinner.

I took pix of the gear lube catching ring that is in there as well. It's simply a piece of sheetmetal that looks like a cone that projects inward toward the center of the truck. as the oil bypasses the seal... when it does, it gets caught in that cone, and is supposed to run back into the wheel, and not all over the brakes. It worked perfect on the passenger side, but the driver side didn't do squat. The brakes were coated in oil. So, it's not so awesome... or perfect after all.

Tomorrow, I hope to finish this job I'm doing and take her for a ride. Let you know what happens and post a few pix of the seals / hub and such.

T.

 

Thats a dually stlye drum and backing plate. Try a 30033 inner seal.

A SRW and dually use different inner seals.

The couple of SRW trucks I have been into had a flat faced brake drum, not that recessed drum.

 

Single rear wheel seal: 2.80" inner diameter

Dual rear wheel seal: 3.00" inner diameter.


FYI

 

You can see if the gear lube catcher works, it alerts you to your problem. Oil gets deposited on the outside of your rim / tire. It worked great on the passenger side, but didn't do squat on the driver side. Go figure.

second pic shows the seal just fell apart. (red arrow) This is kind of strange considering it took several weeks to show.

3rd pic show the new seal that fits the best Green arrow shows the gear oil cone / catcher. The other side wasn't as pretty, as it got pretty beat up with the seal removal.

4th shows the spindle, as it's in good shape and not grooved.

 

Good thing my vent tube was NOT clogged.

The gear oil started pouring out of both axles once I cleaned the vent and replaced it. With the clog, it hardly even trickled out.

I'm hoping that this solves the problem. I'll know in a few days after I can take it for a long drive.... on the highway. Maybe this afternoon.

The next, and only time I'll be taking this axle apart (WITH HOPE), will be to replace the locking nuts on both sides with the twin nuts pictured here

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...79&postcount=9

Thanks BK for the tip. Looking forwards to not dealing with these stupid nylon locking nuts and locker tab. True crap just like you said.


T.

 

Mark,

Took the truck for a 2 hour ride tonight.


So far, no leaks. .


although I reserve the right to change my mind at a later date.

Just being cautiously optimistic

 

I finally did my rear brakes ..... again ! This time, I think I did them right, although I'm not finished. During the cold days, my rear brake cables were freezing and not releasing. I replaced the e-brake cables last year, but in that short period of time, the cables went bad and started rotting. Fair warning to not buy autozone brake cables, as they're crap. Hopefully the new raybestos cable won't go bad as quickly.

Here is a picture of that "gear lube catcher" I spoke of. When you put new drums on, you need to swap it out to the new drum...





You can see it popped out here.


New brakes (again!) springs, and cables...and drums....


I'm using all Raybestos stuff. We'll see if it lasts now....