I am over pressuring my cooling system at high RPM's. Just wondering if anyone has had any experience with these.
Thanks,
Mark

 

Mark: Don't waste your money. Get the bypass that goes in the back of the block from puredieselpower. Pain to install, but can be done. Preston

 

You can get it directly from cummins also, I did. As long as you're talking about the deal that bolts to the back of the head to let coolant circulate somewhere. I guess you'd have to dump it back into the top of the radiator for it to release the pressure?

 

Bolts to the back of the block. None of the 12V has a core plug in the back of the head, against the firewall. Its in the back of the block itsself. The two boltholes are already drilled and tapped. Plumb it back into the upper radiator hose. Yes Sir, pressure is the issue. You'll have to take out the freeze plug. Little time consuming but not bad...

 

I thought this wasn't an issue untill above 4k?

 

I don't know that, but I can tell you I am over pressuring my block/heads.

 

Anything over the lower 2000's will cause problems.. the factory pump spins too fast, and cutting fins off the pump as well as adding an electric pump is not the answer. And who? On a street driven truck wants to eyeball the temp gauge 100% of the time while flipping the electric pump on and off?? I don't...

 

So we are all in jeopardy just driving down the road?

 

[QUOTE=CaptainChrysler;2493322]So we are all in jeopardy just driving down the road?[/QUOTE If you turn any high RPM, and high RPM on a 6BT is 2200 and over, Yes Sir. you are. The factory pump cavitates, causing blown freeze plugs. Electrical pumps are not the answer. The number 5&6 run hot. Its because of the pump and those two being at the back of the block. Cummins made the factory bypass for a reason. They know it will blow the rear plug and run hot. The electric pump belongs off road... Hope this helps..

 

So, what's the consensus?

 

I don't want to replace the head gasket only to blow it again.

 

Well..... after having had seven 12V's and bombing the DS out of them, also a 3rd GEN with Opie's bypass. Never had an overheat or blow freeze plugs with all of them turning over 3600RPM.

 

I understood that the electric pump runs at maximum efficiency all the time.

 

I don't think freeze plugs will blow unless they are rusting out. I just don't know how to get my head to seal up front. I don't want cavitation either.
How about putting an air conditioner clutch on the water pump that slips at higher RPM's...

 

The pump running at it's maximum efficency will not keep the cavitation down. One must remember that it still has the same veins. Not going to do you any good for on pavment aka daily driver. more veins, more cavitation. The cheap fix is to cut down the veins to slow water speed. Wrong way to do it...