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Anyone actually know what rings/caps were on 1992 dually?

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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 07:06 PM
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Anyone actually know what rings/caps were on 1992 dually - if any?

Hi everyone! I was wondering if anyone knows for sure what type of trim rings/center caps were supplied on 1992 dually's? Seems most any year trim ring will fit, long as it's 4-hole, but the center cap has become an issue. I have trial-fit several different years/styles of center caps but none are correct(at least none will stay on correctly). So my first question is, did Dodge ever actually make trim rings/center caps for the 1st Gen's? All 1st Gen trucks I've seen for sale appear to have no rings/caps at all, or have those aftermarket style sets on them. If you are in the know, it's the lug nut size and design that won't work with the later model/style caps, which attach to the later model smaller lug nuts(which in turn have a manufactured flange just above the permanent washer for the cap to 'grab'). The earlier 1 1/8in nuts on the 1992 350 do not have this 'grab' flange, for lack of better description. Anyways, reason I ask is I prefer the OEM look of originality wherever possible, and don't really like the looks of any generic aftermarket sets available. Second question is, if there actually are OEM rings/caps available to correctly fit the 1992(so they will stay on!), does anyone have any for sale? :-) Thanks!
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 10:49 PM
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I ordered a new set from Summit Racing last spring came with the skin and center cap. I have pictures in my gallery. For the price, I couldn't touch used or anything in a store around here.

Just a thought
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 12:00 AM
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Hiya Happy! :-) Thanks for the reference, I'll keep Summit in mind. But what I'd really like to know is if Dodge even had trim rings/caps on the 1st Gen dually's? As I say, never have seen one with them, whether they ever did is the question, eh? About your set from Summit; how do they attach to the wheel, under a lug nut? A seemingly knowledgeable guy at a Wheel & Hubcap store told me the under-lugnut bolt-ons won't work on the early dually's because of the bell shaped flared lugs for the coined wheels. Says they would tear up tightening the lugs down, I believe him after checking mine out. He also said the only simulators he knew would work are the snap-in, press-on, whatever you call it, with the multiple fingers all around the rim. I've seen those too, and of course most anything looks better than nothing, but if OEM parts for 1992 exist, I'd rather have them(probably costing many times the aftermarket, huh?). The search continues...
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 10:24 AM
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Trim rings

I ordered my 93 W-350 new with all the bells and whistles,and did not see a wheel trim package offered. $33,500 and it came in with silver painted wheels.
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 12:22 PM
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Hello MSM, thanks for the input. Rats!! I was hoping there was a nice trim package back then, but if your truck listed for $33K, and didn't have them included, I'd say they ain't any, wouldn't you? ;-) My truck also has silver painted wheels(not the primer-gray, actually silver), but I had guessed someone had done the painting. Probably not according to your experience. Pretty much the definitive answer here, I couldn't get much better proof positive than an original owner! Guess that would explain why nothing else later model OEM fits...looks like the only option is aftermarket...unless I could devise a custom piece to slip onto the original 1 1/8in lug nut to attach late-model caps...hmmmmm. I may try that, and if it works well, I'll let others know who may be looking for the same(though I assume most sane people<unlike myself> would just go aftermarket and be happy!). Thanks all! :-)
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 01:11 PM
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You may try GM stuff. The GM dually rears and ours are the exact same. D-70.
however for centers, I for one aint puttin a bowtie on my goat! Perhaps try the GM trim rings and order centers from Eagle Alloys? Or just order simulators.

I dont know if the Ram head centers off of the 94+ trucks will fit or not. The duallys went to D-80's in 94.
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 03:25 PM
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They didnt come from the factory w/ anything until 94 and up. I have Phonix brand from Ebay and they look good ($99 w/shipping)
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 05:00 PM
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Hey all, thanks for the additional info, as I sure didn't know for sure there weren't any factory available parts till 94! Far as GM Dana 70's, I'm not sure they used the same wheels Dodge and the F-word did, far as the coined mating surfaces? That's what creates the lug nut issues with the larger size not compatible with the late model smaller lugs, right? Anyways, sure looks like aftermarket is the only option...so now let's change up my question to be anyone have the simple snap-on style that has all the fingers on the backside, and appear to have no attachment problems? They look pretty much the same as the rest, but cost about 1/2 as much(according to ebay sales I've seen). Which do you recommend? Thanks! PS - on the post above, indicating they did not come from the factory with at least center caps: You'd think Dodge would want to keep much as possible moisture off the lug threads, wouldn't you? Maybe being they are 5/8 thread instead of 9/16 or even 1/2(such as a car) they figured there's enough meat there a little rust wouldn't hurt, like a semi, no centers supplied for the most part, eh?
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 06:44 PM
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Dodge dealers sold simulators as accessories, but even Super LE duallys came with bare rims from the factory.
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 09:29 PM
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Dang it!! You guys have blown my 'get some original wheel rings/centers' fantasy all to pieces!! ;-) Thanks for the info, I have resigned myself to the fact I must use aftermarket, not a terrible tragedy, just not what I'd hoped. Y'all did good!
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 92DuallyCTD
... About your set from Summit; how do they attach to the wheel, under a lug nut? A seemingly knowledgeable guy at a Wheel & Hubcap store told me the under-lugnut bolt-ons won't work on the early dually's because of the bell shaped flared lugs for the coined wheels. Says they would tear up tightening the lugs down, I believe him after checking mine out. ...
I have the flanged lug nut and the simulators do bolt on under the lug nut. In the 4 or so times they have been off and on, I see no appreciative tearing up of the simulator. The stainless seems to be tough enough.

The only problem I ran into is that the cap goes on very tight. The monkey at the tire shop didn't listen to use the supplied tool and tore the little hole where the tool is insert by using some other type of tool - the way he was going if I hadn't stopped him, he would have had the cap off like a boy scout opens a can with a knife.

As I said earlier, I think these simulators are a great deal and have improved the look of the truck.
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 10:46 PM
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The wheel studs that came on our trucks can be driven out and the later model type can installed. The threaded part is smaller, but the part that is driven in or press in the hub or axle is the same size. So the later model type wheels can be used with the factory trim. I found this to be true on the two wheel drive models and I would think it would work on the four wheel drive models.
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Old Mar 24, 2007 | 11:17 AM
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Thanks Rick(HappyCamper) for the details of the aftermarket Summit trim, I think that may be the way to go now. And thank you Field boss cb for the input on stud/thread size, I actually was just about to ask if anyone knew whether you could simply(as if simply would describe the work!) replace the studs w/late model size/type, and my exact question was to be concerning the size of the the stud splines in the hub. You explained it perfectly, and with much less wording than I would have!! :-) So now, I suppose if I really WANTED to....I could actually change all the wheel studs(eliminating the larger nuts), swap to late model wheels(eliminating the coined ones), and therefore be able to use factory trim parts in the end? Now my question would be if anyone has already done this and how well it worked out? I don't even want to think what it would cost...on the other hand, I guess just the price of all new studs/nuts, and whatever a good used set of wheels runs...hmmmm. That wouldn't be too terribly much...oh well, at least I now know there may be a solution to my stubborn thought of acquiring the OEM look!! Again thanks to all, you're a great source of info/answers!
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Old Mar 25, 2007 | 07:57 AM
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The studs are not all that expensive, but the nuts are. Around $4 or $5 each, time you multi it equals some serious money just for the nuts. If you could buy wheels, rings and centers from a late model at the junk yard, get the lug nuts too. Something to watch for, some wheels are not counter-bored on the lug holes and can not be centered on the front end.This can drive you nuts,but can be fixed at a machine shop.
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Old Mar 25, 2007 | 09:10 AM
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Hey Field boss! Good points, but OUCHEY!! on nut costs. That's a very good idea on the get complete setup at salvage yard, I appreciate it! I'm a little cornfused on the wheel counter-bore issue. I sorta know what you mean on the wheel centering issue, far as the 92 front hub does not have a centering flange(erego the coined wheels/flared lugs I think, to center the wheel), but if the later model hub does have the usual center flange, and the wheel studs come thru a regular hole(no need for the coined surface any longer), why are the lug holes counter-bored at all? Last thing, your ideas brought forth another idea...would it be possible to simply switch front hubs/rotors/wheels(2wd) and all to gain desired result? That would leave only the rear studs to change. Mostly I'm curious about the lug hole counter-bore, as to why that would be and how to identify(I suppose they are what they sound...counter-bored at the lug hole, right? ) ;-) I don't remember my 97 being that way, but then again I'm not sure I ever had need to examine the wheels closely enough to discover that. Thanks again for the info/great ideas, keep 'em coming!
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