edwinsmith

I went to start the truck to go to my Cardiology Appt. and the Ammeter pegged! I looked at the voltmeter and it looked OK so I popped the hood. I checked the voltage at the battery and it was 12V or so but the Ammeter was still pegged. The charging cable to the battery was very hot though. I wiggled the wires associated with it and things settled down for a bit so I went for a drive. By the time I got back the voltage on my accessory in cab meter had creeped up to 16.2 volts as I pulled into the garage. I popped the hood and the voltage at the battery agreed along with the voltage at the Voltage Regulator.

I think the crappy O'Reilly VR is bad again like twice before so I need to find a good one. Does anyone have a good source?

Edwin

edwinsmith

Is this a good unit?

oliver foster

You could save your self a buck and get the blue Mopar VR rather than the one that is painted in black for the muscle car restorations.

The Mopar VR should last you a lot longer than the junk auto parts store ones.

edwinsmith

You mean this one?
Thanks

Edwin

N. Besonderes

This is on my short list of mods to decomputerize my unnecessarily computerized '93.
https://alternatorparts.com/external...CAAEgKl5vD_BwE

-Niemand

NJTman

Hey Edwin,

You do realize that all the voltage regulators aren't the problem with your truck. You've obviously turned up your alternator for more power, and the history of you going through voltage regulators can't be from quality control issues with the product. You've obviously known this all along.

edwinsmith

rotflmao!

edwinsmith

My truck is an 89 without all of that computerized $#!+. I did add a relay so the sense voltage comes directly from the battery for better regulation. Otherwise the sense voltage comes through the ignition switch which causes the headlights to pulse. I had changed the original VR which was probably good trying to get rid of THAT problem and replaced it with the Chicom crappy version which lasts about 3 months and then turns to crap and overcharges. The old version is one of the simplest and reliable other than one with the VR in the alternator. My alternator is great though but just needs the external VR.

The new one is supposed to regulate at 13.5V whereas all of the Chicom ones I get at O'Reillys start off at 14.7 and then eventually go to overcharging. This is my third one and hopefully the new one from Amazon will fix the problem permanently.

Edwin

N. Besonderes

That company I linked to offers a heavy duty adjustable VR.

cougar

That wire needs to run to the field on the alternator as well. ANY voltage drop to the regulator and/or alternator field (J2) will result in a low output from the alternator. So In turn, the regulator will see low voltage and try to adjust. The regulator not only measures input (sense) voltage, it also measures across the field winding's (J2 and R3). If either is out of spec, the output will be also.
http://dens-site.net/Dodge_CTD/1991....ams/Scan04.jpg
http://dens-site.net/Dodge_CTD/1991....ams/Scan05.jpg

NJTman

Edwin,

Put this number into eBay search button

282216601045

What's ya think?

BHD

I have bought the correct VR from Dodge with good success. They are warranted for 12 months. The Chineseum VRs are garbage in my opinion.

edwinsmith

The sense voltage from the relay connects to the VR AND the alternator field. The relay then connects the field and sense terminals directly to the battery. The relay is energized by the old wire from the ignition switch so that when the ign. is on the relay is energized. The other field wire is still connected to the VR field connection. Yes. The ground on the VR is good. If I had more energy today I'd draw a picture.

Edwin

edwinsmith

Looks like a good price IF it's good. My alternator is fine however and I would probably rebuild it if it had problems.

Thanks

Edwin

edwinsmith

Does Dodge still sell them? What did you pay?

Thanks

Edwin