flashgordon

So....What compressor would you rec. for the hic turbo?

Is it worth it or would i just be better off save up for a better turbo and, witch one?

Remember this turbo (or compressor) will be a pulling turbo (Hiway trailer puller.)

Cowboy_Customs

Im kind of in the same boat as your self. I have the 3200 spring, and pump pushin a lil bit more fuel, and timed a little better for more fueling on the top end to accomodate the new spring all thanks to Greg (G1625S). The only thing id add to your list is a 4" DP and exhaust back to your stacks. I put one on mine about 2-3 weeks after I bought it and I love it! I love the power. Just ask Greg, I giggle like a little school girl everytime we do something to the Cummins and go for a ride on my lil test course. hehehe
I also went for a ride in Gregs truck a few days after the HTT stageIII install and it sounds like a jet taking off, and the boost is phenominaly quick! I drive truck for a living so Im used to a little lag, and I have the 21cm exhaust housing, but my planned route for upgrades include a HTT stage IV (which i believe from my understanding is more boost?) and a 14CM exhaust housing, im not conserned about quick boost, but HTT also says the stage IV isnt recomended for anything under a 12CM housing so, with my towing requirements I dont need to leave a stop light with 30PSI (dont think horse's will like that too much) but a 14, and stage IV is certainly enough to satisfy my "playing" requirements. Just watch your boost guage if your concerned about it in anyway. Again im not too concerned here, as some ARP headstuds and Fire ring's is plenty good enough, But I dont intend to get a wastegate.
And if you really want injectors Id advise the Bosch 190's as Greg stated and I quote "...the Lucas PODs just kind of slobber fuel." (I just think the way he put it was funny as all heck)
Im looking for 300 horse and around 700+ in torque for my playing needs. But the stockers are plenty adequite to push the fuel.
Welcome to the top of the slope!

BigWaylon

how much did you adjust timing? I know each truck will be different, but looking for all kinds of input...

I think I'm gonna go with my original post...and hold off on a different housing (at least so I can know what I've been missing, when I finally get around to changing it) and injectors and DP...

Thanks for the input...

Greg

BigWaylon

...and speaking of timing (sorry for asking some of these, but I can't walk out and look at the truck right now)...are there markings near the pump that show degrees? or do we just adjust it by distance moved?

Greg

Cowboy_Customs

That is a very good question on the timing, Greg is the man that knows. Unfortunatly he's always the one who's covered in grease, but hes also the one who can tweek, and tune a cummins in his sleep, I just kinda buy the parts! all I know is with the 3200 (366) spring with stock timing it sound like its braking up at WOT free reving. so he gave it enough to fix that.
Bosch or Cummins did take the time to mark some critical items, like timing.

G1625S

There are three nuts that hold the pump to the timing case. One of them is real easy to see. Wipe the grease from the pump flange near that nut and that general area on the timing case. There will be a hash mark on the pump and one that corresponds to it on the timing case. They should be lined up if the pump has never been messed with. This will indicate stock timing. Separating those marks by 1/8'' via pushing the top of the pump toward the cylinder head is what's commonly refered to as the 1/8'' timing bump. BigWaylon, our early trucks run more timing from the factory than the later trucks. I did not need any additional timing when I added the 3200 spring, fwiw. Lemme see if I can dig up a pic....ahhh, lookie there

BigWaylon

thanks...very helpful...

IIRC, bumping the timing will help lower my EGT? especially if I stay with the 3" DP for now...

but I won't know if it needs lowering until I do the rest...

Greg

G1625S

Yup, timing bump will drop egts. Advanced timing becomes a fine line when your rig works for a living, however, and we early first genners have weenie little radiators to boot. All that egt drop translates almost directly to higher coolant temps, especially with our small radiators. Having said that, I'm running an obscene amount of timing and haven't broke anything (yet). I actually pulled some timing out recently and liked the way it ran better.

BigWaylon

gotcha...getting it to 1200, but nothing higher, might be the best option for me?


also...nobody has addressed the piston pump question...is that a good preventative upgrade? any reason I'd want one with my setup of the factory one is OK?

I saw the write-up in tech, and it doesn't look like that big of a job...

Greg

G1625S

I don't mind driving by the pyro, but some folks just like to put their foot into it and go. Personal preference. You'll always be safer with factory-ish timing and temps below 1200 (pre turbo)

A piston lift pump is a great idea. You just can't argue a good, healthy fuel supply to the injection pump. Having said that, I've never heard of a 1st gen injection pump fail due to a bad lift pump. The VE has its own internal vane style pump that can actually draw its own fuel from the tank, if need be.

Beamwalker

open it up on highway. if 75-80 is max speed then you have 4.10s. 3.54s will give you about 93-100 mph. ask your local trooper to use his gun to check for you. btw you doing spring yourself? im only 2-3 hours away wanna do mine with spring

BigWaylon

the one time I've had it on the interstate, it wouldn't do more than ~72-73...is that the 4.10? shouldn't be anything higher than that, right?

I'll send you a PM on the spring...

Greg

wannadiesel

Why apologize? I'm the one who said it. Seriously guys, do not waste money on a 14 cm WG housing. The 12 cm WG with a decent compressor is awesome on a 5 speed truck with stock injectors.

BigWaylon

somewhat related, so I'll just add to this thread...

looking down the road to swap to a 12cm WG housing...and also looking at the Stage II or III compressor housings...

does it make sense to turbine housing but not the compressor? or the compressor but not the turbine?

or should both be done?

if just one is fine, which gives the better results as a stand alone upgrade?

Thanks.
Greg

wannadiesel

The turbine housing is much more significant. The compressor can wait.