Am I missing something, or is this a good "plan"
10-13-2006, 06:07 PM
#241
Registered User
Well, IMHO, there's a difference between peak power and peak efficiency. Look at any open class pulling truck...they're not running clean, even at 80-100psi...so, there must be more power to be had with all that soot...of course, the downside is 2000+degree EGT's. I think peak efficiancy is when you've got just the slightest haze at full boogie. Adding more fuel may very well deliver more power (and smoke) but with diminishing returns, often showing up as high egt's. In a pulling/play truck, it's worth it, but in a truck that works for a living, pushing for efficient power is a must, if you value your pistons, anyway
10-13-2006, 06:31 PM
#243
Adminstrator-ess
When you have it tuned for good power/EGT in tow mode, it will probably smoke a bit until the turbo spools up. If you are getting heavy smoke at the top end, try adjusting the WG for more boost.
I think you are pretty safe to go towing if 1000 degrees is all you can get empty.
Does it run pretty good in full fuel mode?
I think you are pretty safe to go towing if 1000 degrees is all you can get empty.
Does it run pretty good in full fuel mode?
10-13-2006, 08:03 PM
#244
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like a scalded dog...
adjusting the wg...meaning to make it open later? I don't even have it hooked up right now (wanted to see how it ran)...so it's getting all the air I can give it...
I took a friend for a test drive this afternoon...(he has a '98 diesel suburban) and he was blown away...but, I blew the elbow off again...
so, I pulled the whole thing apart, applied some hairspray, and put the t-bolt clamp before I put the spacer...I had been having a hard time getting the t-bolt to slide down between the spacer and the elbow...
so, it's as good as it can get now...until I do something like lay a bead on it...
I started off in 2nd...and when I snatched 3rd the wheels just started spinning......almost did it again when I went to 4th...
I'm really thinking about taking it to the local 1/8 mile strip...just to know...
Greg
adjusting the wg...meaning to make it open later? I don't even have it hooked up right now (wanted to see how it ran)...so it's getting all the air I can give it...
I took a friend for a test drive this afternoon...(he has a '98 diesel suburban) and he was blown away...but, I blew the elbow off again...
so, I pulled the whole thing apart, applied some hairspray, and put the t-bolt clamp before I put the spacer...I had been having a hard time getting the t-bolt to slide down between the spacer and the elbow...
so, it's as good as it can get now...until I do something like lay a bead on it...
I started off in 2nd...and when I snatched 3rd the wheels just started spinning...
...almost did it again when I went to 4th...I'm really thinking about taking it to the local 1/8 mile strip...just to know...
Greg
10-14-2006, 06:52 PM
#245
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OK...took it out on the interstate for about 30-45 minutes today...
let's just say power is not an issue...75MPH anywhere I wanted to go...and not near as much pedal needed to do it...
but, it was a little too easy to hit 1300F...did it in both 4th and 5th...it probably would've gone higher, but I wasn't gonna push it...
...and the inclines I was on aren't near as bad as the long climbs I have to take through the mountains...
so, I'm guessing I need to just back off the full power screw...
I also happen to have my little scrap of paper with speed/gear/RPM data that I used to calibrate the tach...and in checking it, the tach was off by several hundred RPM at times...
so...all that leads me to four questions:
1. can adjusting the pump cause a tach (that uses the alternator) to not be correct? or any chance that's it's working different after installing dual batteries? it's obviously not right, and I need to readjust it...just wondering if it's something that'll keep happening, or the tach is faulty...
2. the full power screw is probably turned in at least three full turns...not knowing exactly how many, or how sensative the adjustment is, should I back it out in 1/2 turn increments til EGT's are OK?
3. I know I've been told to not be afraid to downshift and get the RPM's up...what's a safe RPM limit to run these motors for miles at a time (i.e. up a 10 mile incline)?
4. would the further I back out the power screw, the bigger the difference I'd see between ON/OFF on my "valet" switch? logic to me would be yes, since the percentage of fuel increase would be greater with less full power screw...
please feel free to answer any/all of the above...
Thanks.
Greg
let's just say power is not an issue...75MPH anywhere I wanted to go...and not near as much pedal needed to do it...
but, it was a little too easy to hit 1300F...did it in both 4th and 5th...it probably would've gone higher, but I wasn't gonna push it...
...and the inclines I was on aren't near as bad as the long climbs I have to take through the mountains...
so, I'm guessing I need to just back off the full power screw...
I also happen to have my little scrap of paper with speed/gear/RPM data that I used to calibrate the tach...and in checking it, the tach was off by several hundred RPM at times...
so...all that leads me to four questions:
1. can adjusting the pump cause a tach (that uses the alternator) to not be correct? or any chance that's it's working different after installing dual batteries? it's obviously not right, and I need to readjust it...just wondering if it's something that'll keep happening, or the tach is faulty...
2. the full power screw is probably turned in at least three full turns...not knowing exactly how many, or how sensative the adjustment is, should I back it out in 1/2 turn increments til EGT's are OK?
3. I know I've been told to not be afraid to downshift and get the RPM's up...what's a safe RPM limit to run these motors for miles at a time (i.e. up a 10 mile incline)?
4. would the further I back out the power screw, the bigger the difference I'd see between ON/OFF on my "valet" switch? logic to me would be yes, since the percentage of fuel increase would be greater with less full power screw...
please feel free to answer any/all of the above...
Thanks.
Greg
10-14-2006, 07:01 PM
#246
Registered User
Adjusting the inj pump would not affect the tach at all.
Here's how I calibrated mine.
1. Take a can of flat black spray paint and paint the harmonic balancer.
2. Place 2 reflective strips of aluminum HVAC duct tape (not the common plastic cloth stuff) on opposite sides of the HB.
3. Get a hobby RC plane prop tach and set it to a 2 bladed prop. (about $30)
4. Take a couple of tie-wraps and with the engine running put the tie-wraps around the throttle linkage so you can rev the engine up to a steady value around 2500 or so.
5. Crawl under the front of the engine and shine a flashlight on the HB while you point the optical tach at it to get a reading.
6. Adjust the tach to match. and remove the tie-wraps.
Edwin
Here's how I calibrated mine.
1. Take a can of flat black spray paint and paint the harmonic balancer.
2. Place 2 reflective strips of aluminum HVAC duct tape (not the common plastic cloth stuff) on opposite sides of the HB.
3. Get a hobby RC plane prop tach and set it to a 2 bladed prop. (about $30)
4. Take a couple of tie-wraps and with the engine running put the tie-wraps around the throttle linkage so you can rev the engine up to a steady value around 2500 or so.
5. Crawl under the front of the engine and shine a flashlight on the HB while you point the optical tach at it to get a reading.
6. Adjust the tach to match. and remove the tie-wraps.
Edwin
10-14-2006, 07:02 PM
#247
Adminstrator-ess
The 1300 degrees was in "tow" mode or "play" mode? Don't worry about the EGT when it's playtime, short bursts won't hurt anything.
1: No. Try moving the probe around. I had to play with mine a little to get it reading right at high RPM. It was accurate at low RPM, but then it would hit a wall around 2800.
2: 1/2 turn is a good increment.
3: I wouldn't hesitate to hold 3k as long as EGT and water temp were OK.
4: SOTP, yes. Dyno numbers will show about the same spread I bet.
I did not realize the WG controller was unhooked.
1: No. Try moving the probe around. I had to play with mine a little to get it reading right at high RPM. It was accurate at low RPM, but then it would hit a wall around 2800.
2: 1/2 turn is a good increment.
3: I wouldn't hesitate to hold 3k as long as EGT and water temp were OK.
4: SOTP, yes. Dyno numbers will show about the same spread I bet.
I did not realize the WG controller was unhooked.
10-14-2006, 07:11 PM
#248
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1300 in tow...not really gonna worry about play mode...
I'm out of town Sun-Thu...so it'll just sit...but when I get back, I'll turn the screw out 1/2 turn and try it again (use a company truck, so the CTD will stay hooked up to the trailer all week)...
I set the tach using an RPM calculator...and when I set it up initially, it was accurate for:
25MPH in 3rd
35MPH in 3rd
35MPH in 4th
50MPH in 4th
50MPH in 5th
70MPH in 5th
I set it at the highest (70MPH in 5th)...and as I slowed down and changed gears, all the other settings fell right in line...
if the sensor moved position, would that cause it to read differently?
edwin...I remember you method, and actually found a local RC guy that will loan me his optical tach...
I just figured if the other way worked, I wouldn't fool with it...I'm gonna try to reset it using the gear info I have written down, and see if it holds from there...
might go ahead and get the optical tach and see how close it reads...
Dave...as soon as I get it turned, the wg will get hooked back up...I just want to make sure it wasn't opening too soon...
Thanks.
Greg
I'm out of town Sun-Thu...so it'll just sit...but when I get back, I'll turn the screw out 1/2 turn and try it again (use a company truck, so the CTD will stay hooked up to the trailer all week)...
I set the tach using an RPM calculator...and when I set it up initially, it was accurate for:
25MPH in 3rd
35MPH in 3rd
35MPH in 4th
50MPH in 4th
50MPH in 5th
70MPH in 5th
I set it at the highest (70MPH in 5th)...and as I slowed down and changed gears, all the other settings fell right in line...
if the sensor moved position, would that cause it to read differently?
edwin...I remember you method, and actually found a local RC guy that will loan me his optical tach...
I just figured if the other way worked, I wouldn't fool with it...I'm gonna try to reset it using the gear info I have written down, and see if it holds from there...
might go ahead and get the optical tach and see how close it reads...
Dave...as soon as I get it turned, the wg will get hooked back up...I just want to make sure it wasn't opening too soon...
Thanks.
Greg
09-03-2014, 04:00 AM
#249
Registered User
Is there any way we can get some pictures back in this great post ??
got the valet switch put in today...less than an hour from start to finish...
pic of the parts:
fittings and air line from Parker...switch and wiring connectors from Advance Auto...air solenoid and exhaust muffler from Grainger...Teflon pipe sealant from Fastenal...
parts were picked up at random times over the last couple days...I could've bought more of it at a single stop, but figured I'd list where I got the stuff...
main problem I ran into was finding a way to replace the banjo bolt...I could've used the OEM tubing and just used an adapter from there (that's what wannadiesel did) but I wanted to get rid of some of that clutter...
come to find out, 1/16 NPT is very close to the M8x1.0 thread:
I removed the banjo bolt, and the NPT fitting from the intake...and replaced them with Parker Prestolok fittings:
the solenoid I used was a 3-way...which has an exhaust port that will allow the pressure in the AFC to vent off when I flip the switch off (off = valet mode)...I put some 90-degree swivel Prestolok fittings in the IN and OUT, and put an "exhaust muffler" in the EXHAUST port. The muffler was ~$1.60, and I figured it was a safety device that would actually function as a filter to keep anything debris from getting into the AFC housing and messing up the diaphragm:
bought a basic ON/OFF switch...and since the solenoid only uses .38A, I robbed power off the cigarette lighter:
BTW...are those the factory headlight and parking light switches? they just looked odd to me...
mounted the solenoid on the fender wall...just used a fancy zip tie I had laying around...could go to bolts or screws later:
got all the line run:
I used the 90-fitting just to keep from having a sharp bend in the air line.
If I ever need to ditch the whole setup, I can just spin the 90-degree fitting around and plug right into the manifold...
I haven't had it out on the road...but I did test the switch and could feel the airflow stop when the switch was in the OFF position...
PARTS LIST:
solenoid:
3-way 12V from Grainger (1/8NPT ports)
Grainger Item: 6JJ52
Ingersoll-Rand Model #: P251SS-012-D
Quantity: 1
exhaust muffler (used as filter):
Grainger Item: 1A325
Speedaire by Dayton Model#: 1A325
Quantity: 1
air line:
Parker air line (comes in multiple colors)
Parker part #: E-43-B-0100 (that may just be for the blue I bought)
Quantity: 3-6 feet (I bought 6', and have over 2' left)
fittings:
Parker 1/8NPT Prestolok 90-degree swivel elbow
Parker part #: W169PLNS-4-2
Quantity: 2
Parker 1/8NPT Prestolok straight coupler
Parker part #: W68PL-4-2
Quantity: 1
Parker 1/16NPT Prestolok straight coupler
Parker part #: W68PL-4-1
Quantity: 1
Parker 1/4 tube Prestolok 90-degree fixed elbow
Parker part #: 165PL-4
Quantity: 1
FYI...the first part of the Parker part number is the fitting. The second is the tube size in 1/16" (i.e. the 4 means 4/16, or 1/4" tube). The third is the NPT thread size in 1/16" (i.e. the 2 means 2/16, or 1/8...the 1 means 1/16)
you also need:
12V switch of your choice
wire
wire connectors
teflon pipe sealant (optional, but recommended)
NOTE: the 1/16 NPT is not the same as the banjo bolt you are replacing...but it fits nicely. I would not want to remove it and reuse the banjo bolt, but you can make a new AFC hose with what you just installed if you ever want to ditch the whole setup.
Greg
pic of the parts:
fittings and air line from Parker...switch and wiring connectors from Advance Auto...air solenoid and exhaust muffler from Grainger...Teflon pipe sealant from Fastenal...
parts were picked up at random times over the last couple days...I could've bought more of it at a single stop, but figured I'd list where I got the stuff...
main problem I ran into was finding a way to replace the banjo bolt...I could've used the OEM tubing and just used an adapter from there (that's what wannadiesel did) but I wanted to get rid of some of that clutter...
come to find out, 1/16 NPT is very close to the M8x1.0 thread:
I removed the banjo bolt, and the NPT fitting from the intake...and replaced them with Parker Prestolok fittings:
the solenoid I used was a 3-way...which has an exhaust port that will allow the pressure in the AFC to vent off when I flip the switch off (off = valet mode)...I put some 90-degree swivel Prestolok fittings in the IN and OUT, and put an "exhaust muffler" in the EXHAUST port. The muffler was ~$1.60, and I figured it was a safety device that would actually function as a filter to keep anything debris from getting into the AFC housing and messing up the diaphragm:
bought a basic ON/OFF switch...and since the solenoid only uses .38A, I robbed power off the cigarette lighter:
BTW...are those the factory headlight and parking light switches? they just looked odd to me...
mounted the solenoid on the fender wall...just used a fancy zip tie I had laying around...could go to bolts or screws later:
got all the line run:
I used the 90-fitting just to keep from having a sharp bend in the air line.
If I ever need to ditch the whole setup, I can just spin the 90-degree fitting around and plug right into the manifold...
I haven't had it out on the road...but I did test the switch and could feel the airflow stop when the switch was in the OFF position...
PARTS LIST:
solenoid:
3-way 12V from Grainger (1/8NPT ports)
Grainger Item: 6JJ52
Ingersoll-Rand Model #: P251SS-012-D
Quantity: 1
exhaust muffler (used as filter):
Grainger Item: 1A325
Speedaire by Dayton Model#: 1A325
Quantity: 1
air line:
Parker air line (comes in multiple colors)
Parker part #: E-43-B-0100 (that may just be for the blue I bought)
Quantity: 3-6 feet (I bought 6', and have over 2' left)
fittings:
Parker 1/8NPT Prestolok 90-degree swivel elbow
Parker part #: W169PLNS-4-2
Quantity: 2
Parker 1/8NPT Prestolok straight coupler
Parker part #: W68PL-4-2
Quantity: 1
Parker 1/16NPT Prestolok straight coupler
Parker part #: W68PL-4-1
Quantity: 1
Parker 1/4 tube Prestolok 90-degree fixed elbow
Parker part #: 165PL-4
Quantity: 1
FYI...the first part of the Parker part number is the fitting. The second is the tube size in 1/16" (i.e. the 4 means 4/16, or 1/4" tube). The third is the NPT thread size in 1/16" (i.e. the 2 means 2/16, or 1/8...the 1 means 1/16)
you also need:
12V switch of your choice
wire
wire connectors
teflon pipe sealant (optional, but recommended)
NOTE: the 1/16 NPT is not the same as the banjo bolt you are replacing...but it fits nicely. I would not want to remove it and reuse the banjo bolt, but you can make a new AFC hose with what you just installed if you ever want to ditch the whole setup.
Greg
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