Ok Guys!! I'm Still Confused With My Rig. I'm Reposting This To Make Sense Of What's Going On Here. I Put A 91.5 12v Into An 85 D-350 Crewcab And I Need To Know If This Engine Has A Crank Sensor Or Not. Some Of You Say It Does And Some Say Not. I Had Alt. Checked At Autozone And They Said It Was Charging. Took It To A Electrical Shop And They Said It's Not Charging. If I Don't Have Sensor Causing Alt. To Not Charge Then I Guess I Have A Bad Alternator. I Already Put New Volt. Reg. On And Still Nothing. I Don't Want To Just Throw Parts At Problem,i Need Solution. A Rebuilt Alt. Is About $250.00 To $275.00 Here In My Neck Of The Woods. I Am Going To Ask This One More Time And Hope I Can Get Some Sort Of Logical Answer. Thanks Augie Dog

 

No. No crank sensor 'till '92.

 

He's right. If you put a voltage regulator on a newer one you wouldn't need the crank sensor anyhow.

Are you sure the regulator is wired right?

 

also make sure the fuse link isn't dead.

 

Regulator Is Wired Correctly I Recently Put A New One On It Thinking That Was Problem. Truck Has Been Running Great And Charging Great Since Conversion Over A Year Ago.also Where Is Fuslink Micaihfied Reffered To. I Tried To Print Off Wiring Diagram From This Site For 91.5 But It Would Take To Long

 

Alternator case needs a good ground, and external regulator case needs a good bare metal ground. Engine ground must be intact and clean bare metal connections at engine and firewall or chassis frame. The weather in your area is able to cause corrosion and the first thing that goes is grounds! All it takes is one weak link. Sometimes you can run ground jumper wires, as a wire with alligator clips on each end, to test.

What other symptoms are seen that makes you think alternator is bad or system isn't charging?

Is it a Delco or ND Denso alternator?

 

I had the same problem with my alternator not charging when I installed a 93 CTD in my 48 Ford Conversion. My problem turned out to be a simple ground wire that I failed to get hooked up. It has been awhile back, but if I remember correctly, it was a small black wire with a terminal end on it that mounted on the right side of the engine compartment. Once I found it and hooked it up, all was well.

 

Here's a link for a cheaper price on an alternator, only $137 if it will fit and work for you, others also:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,2412

 

HEY JIMMIE D SORRY I DIDN.T RESPOND TO YOUR ??'S I WENT CAMPING THIS WEEKEND. I HAVE CHECKED GROUNDS ALL LOOK GOOD I REPLACE VR STILL NO CHARGING I WAS ABLE TO PUT GOOD CHARGE ON BATTERY OVERNIGHT AND DRIVE TO WORK AND BACK HOME. FOR ABOUT TWO DAYS BUT NOW I ONLY GET ONE TRIP AND IT'S DEAD. WHEN YOU USE BLINKERS THE NEEDLE ON GUAGE GOES NUTS AND MY AIR COND. WON'T KICK ON WHEN I USE DEFROST IN MORNING. THE ENGINE WOULD IDLE DOWN WHEN DEFROST WAS ON AND COMP. CYCLES. OTHER THAN THAT THOSE ARE PRETTY MUCH THE SYMPTONS. I HAD A FRIEND USE TEST LIGHT AND MULTIMETER ON THE VR AND ALTERNATOR WHILE RUNNING AND OFF AND HE SAID IT WAS ALT. ( he used to rebuild alt's ) SO THAT'S ABOUT IT. I FOUND A PARTS STORE HER WHO HAS VERY GOOD REPUTATION AND STANDS BEHINDS HIS PRODUCT TO ORDER A REMFG. ALT. FOR $ 120.00 PLUS MY CORE. IT SHOULD BE HERE WED. OR THURS. AND I'M HOPING THIS WILL FIX IT. I JUST DON'T WANT TO GET INTO THROWING PARTS AT THE PROB. AND GET IT FIXED.

 

Sounds like you've got it covered.

While you're at it you might want to take the battery and get it load tested. It's entirely different from just checking charge, as that may only show the surface charge. Putting a load pile to it draws it down to see what it is really doing, or can do. Many parts stores have a load/load pile tester and do it for free. With a new regulator, new alternator it's good to know the battery is up to snuff too.

 

that's a good suggestion jimmie. i was planning on doing that as soon as i get new alt. installed. there's a possibility the battery could be losing it's capabilities due to my throwing a charger on it every night for the last month and a half treating it like a trolling motor battery is not good. automotive batteries are not designed for constant drain and recharging

 

augie, sorry i was away as well. the fuse link would be on the large wire running from the alternator to the battery, in your conversion you may have replaced the wire. just trace the wire (10 gauge i think) and the link should be within a foot or two from the battery.

 

To test the alternator positively, there are three connections on the alternator. The large one is connected to the battery directly and should have 12 v at all times. The two small ones connect to the regulator.
To test the alternator on the truck, start it, remove the wires from the two small terminals. Hook one small terminal to 12 v. Hook the other one to ground. The alternator should go to full charge. If it does not the alternator is bad.... period. If it goes to full charge, the regulator or wiring is bad.

 

Any updates????

 

HEY McMOPAR WHAT'S UP?? THE NEWEST UPDATE IS I ORDERED A REMFG. ALT. FROM LOOP ROAD AUTO PARTS IN GARNER. SCOTT THERE SAID HIS SUPPLIER IS VERY RELIABLE AND I'M GOING WITH THAT. ALT. SHOULD BE HERE SOMETIME THURS. THE 18 th. MORN JUST IN TIME FOR THE ICE STORM!!!!! HOPEFULLY I CAN GET IT IN ASAP AND GO FROM THERE. I'LL KEEP YOU POSTED. HAVE YOU STARTED YOUR CONVERSION YET?