1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

air conditioning and cooling system

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-19-2010, 08:23 PM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Blowndodge's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: southern cal.
Posts: 234
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
air conditioning and cooling system

I have a question that I haven't found an answer except in the 3 gen forums.

I have a 93 CTD whom's air conditioning became less effective a couple of years ago. R12 is the coolant. Tests show its fully charged and not leaking.

I recently did a complete flush of the cooling system and I was checking thr routing of the hoses that enter the firewall to provide heat in the cab. I've also heard about a "cycling switch" that can go bad. Mine cycles but each cycle takes a minute and I've heard that it should be cycling about every 15-20 seconds. the pressure side of the metal hose gets ice cold.

Also behind the glove box is the control arm that that moves left to right back and forth that connects to the temperature lever on the dash. What exactly does this control arm control? An air flow box or the actual water flow to heater coil?

what do you think I should look for to help in cooling more? the 3rd gen forums show putting a coolant lever inline on the return line from the firewall to the top of the motor blocking hot coolant to the inside of the cab?.. Is that a good idea?

Cycling switch.... where is it located and how hard is it to replace and or purchase? When it goes bad how does that hurt the system in providing cold air?


Just trying to get the air cold for those 100+ degree days.
Old 07-19-2010, 08:49 PM
  #2  
Adminstrator-ess
 
wannadiesel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: New Holland, PA
Posts: 22,594
Likes: 0
Received 16 Likes on 16 Posts
The cycling switch is there to keep the evaporator from freezing up, it shuts off the compressor when the refrigerant leaving the coil gets below freezing. The A/C runs colder if you pull the temperature probe most of the way out of the discharge line or bypass the cycling switch altogether. The only "drawback" is that you can't run the fan on low speed or the evaporator might ice up. Not a problem when it's 100+ out there...

I have mine pulled most of the way out and the compressor rarely cycles off. You want it running if you want cold air.

The slider moves an air blend door.

I think your problem is a heater box full of trash. See the sticky for info on how to clean it out.
Old 07-20-2010, 08:39 AM
  #3  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Blowndodge's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: southern cal.
Posts: 234
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I'll go throught that Wanna.... can you explain why a heater box full of trash would cause the cooling to be poor? thanks,
Old 07-20-2010, 09:44 AM
  #4  
Registered User
 
Onemoparnut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Southern New Jersey
Posts: 4,062
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Because when there is trash in the hvac box it plugs up the evaporator core and dosent let as much air through and limits the cooling capabilities.
Old 07-20-2010, 02:00 PM
  #5  
Registered User
 
lenuelmp23's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: florence, texas
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by wannadiesel
The cycling switch is there to keep the evaporator from freezing up, it shuts off the compressor when the refrigerant leaving the coil gets below freezing. The A/C runs colder if you pull the temperature probe most of the way out of the discharge line or bypass the cycling switch altogether. The only "drawback" is that you can't run the fan on low speed or the evaporator might ice up. Not a problem when it's 100+ out there...

I have mine pulled most of the way out and the compressor rarely cycles off. You want it running if you want cold air.

The slider moves an air blend door.

I think your problem is a heater box full of trash. See the sticky for info on how to clean it out.

Where is the cycling switch and the temp probe?
Old 07-20-2010, 02:05 PM
  #6  
Registered User
 
unixcowboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Central Mi
Posts: 666
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Passenger side BEHIND the hood spring on the firewall to the outside of the heater blower cover.
Right where you can see it - but you can't get your hands in there; at least not my mitts
Old 07-20-2010, 02:06 PM
  #7  
Registered User
 
lenuelmp23's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: florence, texas
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
how do you back out the temp probe
Old 07-20-2010, 05:43 PM
  #8  
Adminstrator-ess
 
wannadiesel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: New Holland, PA
Posts: 22,594
Likes: 0
Received 16 Likes on 16 Posts
Just pull on it, it will slide out of the tube. Mine has only about 2 inches in the tube. The tube is sealed off from the refrigerant space, even if you pull it all the way out nothing will leak out or be damaged.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
code7
HELP!
3
08-06-2006 11:41 PM
mopar2ya
1st Gen. Ram - All Topics
3
04-01-2004 06:42 AM
Haulin_in_Dixie
HELP!
41
02-28-2004 12:37 PM
vssman
12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain
9
01-23-2003 11:04 PM



Quick Reply: air conditioning and cooling system



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:31 AM.