Hello, I was planning on rotating the afc shaft to get a little more power out of the 93. After looking at it I just have a few ?s before I dig in. 1) is there anything I need to know or do to the throttle sensor before I take that off? Does it just pull straight up? 2) Does the afc line need new gaskets of any sort when I disconnect it? 3) Is there a chance of tearing the diaphram when I pull it apart? I have to have this truck to tow this weekend and I know I wouldnt be able to get a new one by then. 4) is everything easy to figure out once the diaphram is out? Can I screw it up somehow? Thanks as I do need help since I have never dug into one of these.

 

If you have an auto, be sure to put the TPS sensor back on the same way it came off. There is a bolt at the bottom that pulls straight up out of a keyed hole. Make sure not to turn that nut on the TPS once it's off.

I had a heck of a time with the 1 flathead screw. Only way I could get it off was a hammer and chisel on one edge, then a few taps on the opposite edge. Even an impact screwdriver wouldn't budge it.

I doubt u will need new gaskets for the AFC line. Just be sure not to overtighten it upon reassembly.

My diaphram is kinda hard to get out the first time, but it's pretty strong and you can pull on it pretty hard. I usually rotate it (mark the position first!) back and forth and pull up and push down a few times and it just pops right out. While you have it out cycle your throttle linkage and watch the pin pop out. Mine was sticking and took several cycles and some lube to get working again. MAKE SURE TO PUSH THE PIN BACK IN BEFORE TRYING TO PUT THE DIAPHRAM BACK IN!

Pretty straight forward once you see how it all works. Make sure you have the white nylon washer on the fuel cone/pin when you reinstall it. It can fall off without noticing when you first take it apart. While you have it out, shave a 1/4-1/2 of it off (I CAREFULLY used a pair of vice grips and a razor knife ). Don't forget to give the starwheel a couple full turns while you're in there too.

Good luck and you will really like the changes! Make sure you have a pyro before rotating the fuel cone/pin though.

 

Thanks jrussell, I just decided to go for it before I read your post though. I think everything went fine. I only turned the cone 90 degrees and the star wheel only 1/4 turn. I was a little hesitant since I use this truck to tow quite a bit. I didnt cycle the throttle but everything went back together smoothly. I also just took the throttle sensor off and set it aside and just put it back on. I hope I didnt turn it but I didnt mark it to make sure it went back in the same way. If I turned it what would this cause? I took it for a short drive and it has a lot more pep once the turbo spools. Feels alot closer to a 2nd gen truck. Once I get all the gauges in I might go back in and play some more. I havent touched the fuel screw yet either so I think there is more there but I am very happy now. Later

 

turn the smoke screw on top a 1/4 of a turn till it smoke or the turbo light a little bit sooner
I did the star wheel and the smoke screw at the same time and it made the turbo respond way faster and pull harder without any higher EGT!!

Have you put guages in yet? atleast a pyro?

If so let me now how you egt are on your next trip to the track

 

Hello flashgordon, thanks, now I have to go try the smoke screw and I thought I was done. I was bored today so thats why I did the fuel cone thingie before the pyro. I plan on putting the pyro in this in a couple days and hopefully head to the racetrack sunday. I'll let you know what the egt's read if I get the pyro in. I went and did a little more driving and the difference is awesome and I have no smoke at all. You got to love these trucks. Later

 

Your overdrive shift point would change.

 

wannadiesel, is there a way to check to see if its on correct? How do you install a new one? Thanks in advance

 

If you are happy with the overdrive shift point, then it is correct. There's no need to mess with it if you like how it's shifting, it won't hurt anything to have it shift earlier or later than Dodge thought it should.

There quite a few threads about TPS adjustment, and I'm no expert on it since my truck has 3 pedals.

 

ok thanks, I dont think it moved so I guess I'll wait and see how it tows. later

 

what is the smoke screw? i thought it was the starwheel...

sorry, im more into the 2nd gens... but have 2 1st gens as well!

 

[QUOTE=12valve]what is the smoke screw? i thought it was the starwheel...


it's in the center of the cap(4 screws) that you removed to adj the star wheel!

req two pocket screwdrivers to get the cap out, be carefull it is real soft!!!

 

That smoke screw is just that. It only makes smoke. These Pumps have plenty of low RPM fueling, You dont need to adjust it down, it just makes smoke.
You can get plenty of smoke and power with fuel and star adjustments.
Please get the pyrometer on there before you do any more.
My every day driver has stock nozzles, a 16 CM exhaust housing and pump mods including a governor spring. smoke screw not touched and star wheel not touched. I can get 33 PSI boost in the winter and bellow smoke if I want to
The fuel screw and governor spring are the key to making power over stock settings.
Its all fun, good luck

 

What do you think your power is with those simple mods? Have you do anything with your fuel pin.

 

What's the easiest way to knock off the collar around the power screw with the pump on the truck? I was thinking hammer and chisel but was concerned with cracking the housing.

 

It's vary soft.....a couple of pocket flat bladed screw drives will do the truck, just push it in and pop it out.

Edit was thinking smoke screw.