Put this 29" 4 pass school bus heater core in the heater hose lines. I will put a 1/4 turn valve on to shut it off in the winter. When it warms up again and I haul my 48ft trailer, I can report how effective this is.

 

How did you mount it? Does it have good airflow? You should know that if you run to cold you can hurt your fuel economy.

Edwin

 

Its under the cab, between frame and body. I added pics, dont know why they didnt show up initially. 25 yrs ago I put a cooler on the other side for my manual trans. Works great. I can add a 1/4 turn valve to shut it off it the winder, I also found an adjustable thermostat style valve. Im tired of the heating issues.

 

I always was under the impression from all that I've read that engine temp was driven up by the sloppy tc driving up trans temp and the heat exchanger while going up grades/towing. I could have it backwards, but wouldn't cooling the trans be more effective?

 

Ive got a manual trans. But I have a cooler on the ole Rag too. Works like a champ 195 degrees no matter Im pullin.

 

10-4. I need a trans temp sender before I startadding coolers.

 

Took the truck out hauling my 48ft car trailer to the track in 98-99 degree temps with the AC on and it finally didnt get hot. Still have to stay out of it to a point to keep the EGTs in check. Im going to add a fan and thermal switch for good measure..

 

Do you have a calibrated water temp gauge? I'd be interested in knowing how hot the engine water runs. You should let it get up to 190 or so to keep good efficiency. Remember the heat that goes into the air is fuel you burned to make it hot. We only want to keep temps down enough to prevent extra wear or damage. The hotter it can run under that the better your fuel efficiency will be.

Edwin

 

190 on the aux gauge. Before pulling same 48ft trailer would easily climb 210+ w/o using A/C on 10psi. Now I can run AC and 15ish psi at 190..

 

Well, that's pretty darn impressive!