Have someone sit in your truck and hold the throttle wide open with the truck OFF. Notice what moves on the IP. If there is a gap between the plate the throttle rod connects to the injection pump, then unscrew CAREFULLY the nut the throttle rod is connected by. Move the springs in the upper hole to the lower, put the throttle rod in the upper hole.

Now have the person hit the throttle again. Notice if it hits a screw going the same direction as the engine, front to back. Take the tamper evident (No Mo Warranty Fo Yo! cap) off like you did to the power screw. Un-screw that thing all the way out.

Unlock both nuts on the throttle rod ends that prevent the rod from turning in on itself, like a tie rod end. Screw the rod so that it pulls the 2 ends inward towards each other. Watch the throttle plate on the pump. When the throttle plate on the pump starts to move, back out of it about 1/4 turn.

If you are like me, hitting 18mph in first and 40mph in 2nd was where it was stock.... Now I can hit 30 and 60 respectively if I keep into it long enough. Here is the kicker, I have a truck that is spooled by 20mph and pulls like a edit all the way to 85mph, where it starts letting off until it gets to 100mph.

Truck has no modifications other than the full power screw is in all the way back. No spring, no extra air, no upgraded sticks.

 

i will definitely check those adjustments. i moved my linkage to the upper or inner hole long ago. i also backed the high idle screw out about 4 or 5 turns but not out all the way. i may do just that now and see what gains i notice. i only have 1 turn on the fuel screw though but that should be changing shortly.

 

I did this same thing 2 weeks ago on the hauler, went from 50 mph, flatfooted in 4th, to over 60 mph.
No more flatfooting it to 70 in 5th, either.

No more 5th gear, period!
Or 1st.
Or 2nd.
Or 3rd .
Or Reverse.
Still have 4th.

Yep. Killed the tranny, but that's another story altogether.

Mark.

 

Now imagine if you had actually had fuel all the way to 3200rpm...

 

X2^ A stock pump will start to defuel between 2400 & 2500 RPM. This is the trick I've used to get several people through WA States smoke test.

Bob

 

While I was working around my wiring issues yesterday I switched the spring and ball joint in the pump lever. I wasn't getting full throttle, and the rod was bottomed in the ball joints. The pedal is a little stiffer now, but I went from 65 to 70 MPH on flat ground, and the seat-of-the-pants accel-o-meter says it jumps a lot harder when I roll into the throttle.

 

Did it to both mine a couple months ago. Definitely mad a difference.

 

Picked up another 500 rpm on my 3200 spring by setting up the throttle till it bends all the way around and hits the side of the pump at WOT.

 

AND there's also a foot inside the pump that can be set up to hit the wall opposite the tophat and spring...
May not get much - but every little bit helps.....

 

I think it's turning fast enough now. Next step is some sort of overdrive to get the cruise RPM down. Actually, the next step is to install my new fan clutch and make the jet engine noise settle down a little.

 

Mark, was this the lighter duty NV4500 or a 'rag?