I have a .03 amp current draw with the Key off. What does the ecm draw to keep it hot?

anyone else ever tested this?

I also have a .13 voltage drop From my alternator output to my Positve battery post. They say that .1v for every connection is OK. I have zero voltage drops on the ground side.

Has anyone tested for voltage drops on there rigs?

 

Can I be safe to say you have a dead battery problem after extended parking, and thats why you are asking? Anything less than .50 voltage drop is ok. 0 voltage drop is best. .03 amp draw sounds ok , but I have had vehicles that change voltage draw while they are parked. I have found this by putting my Snap-on Vantage on the vehicle set up with a 12 hour screen. Now when I come back and look it shows the change. Finding what does it is another story, and won't be easy. Hope this helps

 

yup , my battery was low and when i would turn on the intake heater it would suck it down and kill it. i charged my battery and load tested it. It failed so i replaced the battery. I just wanted to know if my voltage drop and current draw was withen what some others may have found with their trucks.

 

30 miliamp draw O'K, would like less depending on year.
Generally to find cause of extra draw, pull fuses till goes down. Need FSM for trouble shooting or be lucky.

 

i pulled fuses. I fiqure the ecm and stereo are the source of the draw.

i'm sure the ecm draws a bit to keep its memory. The stereo draws to keep settings/security light/clock etc..

I would like to replace the positve cable from the battery to the starter. There is a few connections that go along with the battery cable, alternator output and another harness. Has anyone ordered a new cable from dodge? does the cable come with these ?

thanks.

 

I got new cables from Dodge in '06. It all plugged right in.

 

PERFECT, thanks for the reply.

 

Try disconnecting the neg. from one battery and putting a test light in series between the cable and the battery. With the key off, doors closed and hood light removed, the test light should be out. If its on you have a draw, start pulling fuses one at a time till it kills the test light. The ECM and radio(unless aftermarket) won't cause a dead battery for a long, long time.

 

i've done that. My battery was shot. I load tested it and it failed. I had gone through and tested the rest of the electrical system for peace of mind. The results i found seemed to be o.k but i wanted to check around and see if the specs i obtained were within others trucks.

thanks