AC line leaking
AC line leaking
ok My 93 W250 has always had great AC... unitl last week its still all original.. and when it stopped cooling I was just going to get out my big 15# can of R12 and recharge it.... but that 1997 vintage can has had something go wrong with its valves... still weighing in at 13.7 lbs but nothing comes out of either valve (fluid or vapor) any how...
I ordered some of the R12A propane based substitute off Ebay and after having to replace the adapter that comes in the kit as it was defective right off the start.. I got the stuff into the system.. and it was cooling for a while then I shut the truck off and got out my handy flammable gas detector and... it went off the scale around the compressor I look down there and ya can see the vapor of the gas leaking out at the hose fittings BUT they aren't like regular AC line fittings these look like big compression fittings or something nothing like whats on any of the AC line sets that come up when ya do a search.... WTH!!?? do these have o rings or WTH!?? I've never seen anything like this for AC hoses and I just never paid any attention to the compressor on this truck its never gave me any trouble before...
ANYONE got any idea how these are sealed?
I ordered some of the R12A propane based substitute off Ebay and after having to replace the adapter that comes in the kit as it was defective right off the start.. I got the stuff into the system.. and it was cooling for a while then I shut the truck off and got out my handy flammable gas detector and... it went off the scale around the compressor I look down there and ya can see the vapor of the gas leaking out at the hose fittings BUT they aren't like regular AC line fittings these look like big compression fittings or something nothing like whats on any of the AC line sets that come up when ya do a search.... WTH!!?? do these have o rings or WTH!?? I've never seen anything like this for AC hoses and I just never paid any attention to the compressor on this truck its never gave me any trouble before...
ANYONE got any idea how these are sealed?
If it's like mine the compressor has these 2 angle thingies that bolt to the compressor with 2 bolts. I think those take a gasket or it may be an o-ring. The other end is similar to a flare fitting in external looks but they take an o-ring also. You should be able to get them at most any Auto A/C shop or RockAuto may have them. Oreilly Auto may have them also. IIRC they were green on mine.
Let us know how the propane stuff works out. I sprung for the genuine R-12 off eBay for mine but haven't installed it yet. The R-134a stuff just don't cut it.
Edwin
Let us know how the propane stuff works out. I sprung for the genuine R-12 off eBay for mine but haven't installed it yet. The R-134a stuff just don't cut it.
Edwin
Edwin, I decided to not do the propane stuff again... discovered ALOT of people using R152A (electronics component duster) which is totally safe and bonus... ya can buy it at Wal mart LOL!!
Well the R152A recharge is working GREAT I took all the lines loose and flushed everything but the compressor with denatured alcohol, new drier and new expansion valve, used a funnel with a piece of 5/16" fuel line hooked to the spout to pour alcohol into condenser via the line fitting after removed the line sets and same for the evaporator (left them mounted) after it sat awhile I'd hit it with compressed air to push out fluid and repeated until got clean alcohol coming out of it.. I'd go both directions while flushing etc... after everything was clean I swapped compressors with my spare parts truck as that one had been a new install r134 conversion just before I bought the running/driving truck to turn it into a parts supply for my 93 etc... new seals and O-Rings etc... drained the compressors oil and refilled with ESTER OIL (5 ounces, I pumped the other 3 ounces that was in the 8 oz bottle through the compressor by hand to clean out and flush the old PAG or mineral oil that most likally was in it etc..) 5 ounces will exactly fill the compressor in fact when ya remount it some oil will dribble outa the low pressure side after lines are all installed etc.. turn compressor by hand at least 20 times but more is better to get all the oil outa the compressor into the lines prior to starting the engine etc...
vacumed it down for 30 minutes then let it hold vacume another 30...to install the R152A you will need a can piecer (I got skinny cans of duster so had to make a shim tso the cans fit tight in the piecing clamp) it will suck in the first can from the vacume after that... for our trucks the total using R152A is 25 ounces (you take the factory R12 amount in our case 44 ounces and multiply it by 56 to find how much R152A is equivlent it comes out to 24.96 ounces) and ever since I'm getting 36-39 outa the center vent in the cab running down the road and around 40 degrees at idle in Arizona heat!! when I first charged it I was gertting 50 degrees at idle dropping to 40 as I reved it OR sprayed water on the condenser
its working great no issues at all now
edit; I'm forgetting something.. I am recovering from Covid so.... brain is a lil fuzzy right now I'm sure it wasn't real important
EDIT2; OH YEA!! the pressures LOL my low side is around 25-30 lbs the high side running 150-180 lbs but I forget what my ambient temps were that day but it was a lil warm...
Well the R152A recharge is working GREAT I took all the lines loose and flushed everything but the compressor with denatured alcohol, new drier and new expansion valve, used a funnel with a piece of 5/16" fuel line hooked to the spout to pour alcohol into condenser via the line fitting after removed the line sets and same for the evaporator (left them mounted) after it sat awhile I'd hit it with compressed air to push out fluid and repeated until got clean alcohol coming out of it.. I'd go both directions while flushing etc... after everything was clean I swapped compressors with my spare parts truck as that one had been a new install r134 conversion just before I bought the running/driving truck to turn it into a parts supply for my 93 etc... new seals and O-Rings etc... drained the compressors oil and refilled with ESTER OIL (5 ounces, I pumped the other 3 ounces that was in the 8 oz bottle through the compressor by hand to clean out and flush the old PAG or mineral oil that most likally was in it etc..) 5 ounces will exactly fill the compressor in fact when ya remount it some oil will dribble outa the low pressure side after lines are all installed etc.. turn compressor by hand at least 20 times but more is better to get all the oil outa the compressor into the lines prior to starting the engine etc...
vacumed it down for 30 minutes then let it hold vacume another 30...to install the R152A you will need a can piecer (I got skinny cans of duster so had to make a shim tso the cans fit tight in the piecing clamp) it will suck in the first can from the vacume after that... for our trucks the total using R152A is 25 ounces (you take the factory R12 amount in our case 44 ounces and multiply it by 56 to find how much R152A is equivlent it comes out to 24.96 ounces) and ever since I'm getting 36-39 outa the center vent in the cab running down the road and around 40 degrees at idle in Arizona heat!! when I first charged it I was gertting 50 degrees at idle dropping to 40 as I reved it OR sprayed water on the condenser
its working great no issues at all now
edit; I'm forgetting something.. I am recovering from Covid so.... brain is a lil fuzzy right now I'm sure it wasn't real important

EDIT2; OH YEA!! the pressures LOL my low side is around 25-30 lbs the high side running 150-180 lbs but I forget what my ambient temps were that day but it was a lil warm...
I mix it into an old R 12 can. I have dumped 1 can of each into a pumped down auto system and it was about right. Topped it off with another ounce of propane.
Systems charged.
A Cummins pickup
A 92 Dodge van with dual evaps. (could hang meat in that one.)
A 1960 Cadilac. (cold as the beer cooler as well)
Hope it helps.
Great procedure outline! I have bookmarked this thread so that if the R-12 leaks out Because of a loose joint I can sub in the R-152A with your procedure. I'm a bit leery of flushing out the PAG oil with ester oil so I'll be looking back to see how your compressor does after a season of use. I'm in Oklahoma now and it's 34 degrees right now and supposed to get down to 29. So I don't need the A/C for a while. 
Sorry to hear you got the Covid. We take 10,000 units of vitamin D3 daily along with zinc and other vitamins so we haven't had any problems.
Edwin

Sorry to hear you got the Covid. We take 10,000 units of vitamin D3 daily along with zinc and other vitamins so we haven't had any problems.
Edwin
edit; BTW the R152A is compatable with either oil but as I did not know what was in the other compressor... and already had the Ester oil ordered (its synthetic so goes good with 134a or R12 or propane etc...) I switched everything to that..... couldn't tell the difference between it and the mineral oil that was in my old compressor...
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