93 club cab build (suspension, eaton trans, engine upgrades)
#1
93 club cab build (suspension, eaton trans, engine upgrades)
After getting to drive the truck today for the first time I guess I can make a thread about it. My fiance and myself have atleast 600 hours in the truck. We pulled the cab to get easy access to everything.
Removed the factory getrag and tcase and sold them.
Happy to answer any questions.
Removed the factory getrag and tcase and sold them.
Happy to answer any questions.
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gyman98 (09-29-2016)
#2
More photos. Started with pulling the trans and bolting up the new one to build the mounts. I boxed in the frame along side the trans for easy locations to build the mounts off of.
Then I started on the rear suspension by adding a small sub frame for my lower triangulated links.
Then I started on the rear suspension by adding a small sub frame for my lower triangulated links.
#3
Next I pulled the head off to get it to the machine shop. Resurfaced, 3 angle valve job, magnafluxed, and o ringed.
While waiting on that I got started on mounting the tcase. I did the same and boxed in this area of the frame to make it easy to work with. I used the same stye bushings as the trans mounts.
After the head was finished I cleaned the block up and installed the Hamilton valve springs, push rods, and cam. The head is fastend down with arp 2000's. I'm on my 3rd retorque already and will be pulling it apart to do it again tomorrow. I'm hoping with my conservative timing and o rings headgaskets won't he a issue.
The ppump has a adjustable timing gear for easy adjustments. It flowed 490 cc's on the bench at the shop. For now that's plenty of fuel for me.
While waiting on that I got started on mounting the tcase. I did the same and boxed in this area of the frame to make it easy to work with. I used the same stye bushings as the trans mounts.
After the head was finished I cleaned the block up and installed the Hamilton valve springs, push rods, and cam. The head is fastend down with arp 2000's. I'm on my 3rd retorque already and will be pulling it apart to do it again tomorrow. I'm hoping with my conservative timing and o rings headgaskets won't he a issue.
The ppump has a adjustable timing gear for easy adjustments. It flowed 490 cc's on the bench at the shop. For now that's plenty of fuel for me.
#4
Registered User
Man of love to find a Eaton RTO somewhere for my truck.
I've seen a couple selling for more money than if you just bought a truck they came in.
How much and what model is yours?
Where did you source it?
I've seen a couple selling for more money than if you just bought a truck they came in.
How much and what model is yours?
Where did you source it?
#5
Started with some paint. Hung the turbos to make sure they fit correctly. Piping and turbos bought from THD.
Note the size difference between the 1410 and 1710. size increase also reflect the price. But I'm confident it will last a lot longer than the 1410s.
Note the size difference between the 1410 and 1710. size increase also reflect the price. But I'm confident it will last a lot longer than the 1410s.
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kcabbie (09-28-2016)
#7
Next I started on the steering box. I didn't want to run into any issues with a cracked frame (like it had) in the future so I got the kit from jungle. It's a great add! Tough as can be.
From there I started stripping down the stock front suspension. For all my suspension I used the triaged calculator. I was able to get some great figures.
You can see the brackets is used were pre shaped. They only required being welded out. Very convenient!
From there I started stripping down the stock front suspension. For all my suspension I used the triaged calculator. I was able to get some great figures.
You can see the brackets is used were pre shaped. They only required being welded out. Very convenient!
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#8
Unfortunately not all the brackets worked for me. Specifically the panhard /track bar. I was going to have massive problems with stuff colliding on the frame side. On the passenger side i simply didn't have anything to weld to. The axle tube between the pumpkin and inner C is extremely short. So I had to make my own there also.
I removed the studs that used to hold the leafs down on the passenger side with the intention of using the area to mount the air bag bracket to. But it was way to low, so I built a spacer/bracket for shock mounts, sway bar mount, or possibly bump stops. Still have not decided. Anyways, you can see how easy it is to weld to the cast iron pumpkin.
Then i pulled the axle out to access everything to get some solid welds on everything.
I removed the studs that used to hold the leafs down on the passenger side with the intention of using the area to mount the air bag bracket to. But it was way to low, so I built a spacer/bracket for shock mounts, sway bar mount, or possibly bump stops. Still have not decided. Anyways, you can see how easy it is to weld to the cast iron pumpkin.
Then i pulled the axle out to access everything to get some solid welds on everything.
#9
After finishing up the main part of the front suspension we moved to the air compressors and tank.
Followed by installing the clutch. This thing is stout. Rated for 1950 ft lbs of torque for a truck often weighing 60k lbs. I'm running the stock hydraulics and it's pretty easy to work! Also easy taking off. Not jumpy at all.
Followed by installing the clutch. This thing is stout. Rated for 1950 ft lbs of torque for a truck often weighing 60k lbs. I'm running the stock hydraulics and it's pretty easy to work! Also easy taking off. Not jumpy at all.
#10
I had the Jacks haft made by high angle driveline out of California. The others I had a guy in houston put together. They all fit great. Through the 16" of travel thru only extend around 1 inch. Very small amount! They each have 6+ inches of slip.
And finally getting to sit the cab back on. It may not seem like it's taken a lot of time but it took 3 months of working 6-7 days a week.
And finally getting to sit the cab back on. It may not seem like it's taken a lot of time but it took 3 months of working 6-7 days a week.
#11
With the 3" body lift I didn't have to much trimming to do. Prior to starting the project the truck had a 4" lift. It was a few inches to tall to get into the small carport. Now I can lower it enough to have a few inches to spare. That's with the body lift. For me I prefer the truck to be low as possible. But work often has me driving through deep mud or water so it will be nice to raise it when needed.
You can also see the nwf twin sticks in the pic of the interior. Shortening the shifter is on the list of things to do!
I completely replaced all the wires for the turn signals/brakes, running lights, reverse lights and grounds from the plug at the firewall. Surprised how light duty the wiring was! Same wires used for the trailer lights. I also got rid of all the old trailer wiring with new 12 GA + wire.
You can also see the nwf twin sticks in the pic of the interior. Shortening the shifter is on the list of things to do!
I completely replaced all the wires for the turn signals/brakes, running lights, reverse lights and grounds from the plug at the firewall. Surprised how light duty the wiring was! Same wires used for the trailer lights. I also got rid of all the old trailer wiring with new 12 GA + wire.
#12
I found a guy outside of houston who deals with them regularly. I have 1500 for the trans being "rebuilt" and some gears swapped around. It's a little noisy but I have a hole in the floor and it should quiten down after it gets some miles on it.
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1320Fastback (09-29-2016)
#13
Registered User
With the 3" body lift I didn't have to much trimming to do.
So you went with a number 2 bell housing and oem parts, and used a body lift to clear everything. It seems to have worked out well.
I can't believe that your fiancee was such a willing accomplice. Lucky you!
Very cool build. Let us know after you get a chance to cruise in double overdrive on the highway . . .
#14
Banned
are you looking for a new best friend? i can post a resume if you'd like. lol
outstanding build. closest thing i've seen to what I want to do to mine. plan on taking it off the road next fall and will be saving this thread for sure.
i've heard tons of great things about Ferrell pumps. can make some crazy numbers with those. he does HP VE pumps as well.
looks great man, can't wait to see it finished. what is the intended purpose of the truck when she's done?
outstanding build. closest thing i've seen to what I want to do to mine. plan on taking it off the road next fall and will be saving this thread for sure.
i've heard tons of great things about Ferrell pumps. can make some crazy numbers with those. he does HP VE pumps as well.
looks great man, can't wait to see it finished. what is the intended purpose of the truck when she's done?
#15
Thanks for posting up all of the photos!
So you went with a number 2 bell housing and oem parts, and used a body lift to clear everything. It seems to have worked out well.
I can't believe that your fiancee was such a willing accomplice. Lucky you!
Very cool build. Let us know after you get a chance to cruise in double overdrive on the highway . . .
So you went with a number 2 bell housing and oem parts, and used a body lift to clear everything. It seems to have worked out well.
I can't believe that your fiancee was such a willing accomplice. Lucky you!
Very cool build. Let us know after you get a chance to cruise in double overdrive on the highway . . .