Can anybody here turn me onto where to look for a cab for a tranny swap in Washington State? I have a 91 w/an auto that I drive and a wrecked 92 manual. I want to swap the manual for the auto but would prefer not to mess with trying to hang the clutch pedal and everything else associated with the swap. If I could find a decent cab that was already manual for the right price it would work better for me. I would then have an automatic and a the original automatic cab for sale or trade. Thanks for ideas or input.

 

Are both 4wd trucks? If they are the only real difference is the pedals....way more work to swap another cab, then to swap a few parts. A very easy conversion.

Should take you less then a day, really only a few hours, to swap all the manual tranny parts from the donor cab.

 

Just curious,
Do both D-350 auto and W-350 manual use the same tunnel?
isn't the 4x4 taller?
I have only been under a W-250 once but it seemed taller.
Jim

 

Yes....

Post # 90 and continues on post # 256

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...-314771/page6/

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...314771/page18/

 

Swapping pedals over is an hour or so job on the later 1st gen cab that has the holes for the hydro bracket is in the steering column.
It is more of a project on my '85 crew cabs as you need to drill the holes out for the clutch hydros and bracket as the earlier Dodge trucks came with clutch linkage.

As far as 2wd and 4x4 transmission tunnel differences. I am un-sure as I rarely work on 2wd trucks up he here in the woods of VT.

 

Oliver a 2wd floor tunnel all the way up to 1991 is smaller. Its a little tiny round tunnel. In 1992 and 1993 the floors are the same from a 2wd to a 4x4.

 

Tiny is an understatement

 

Both rigs are 4x4. I believe I'm capable of swapping it over though I have not undertaken a project like this before. The wrecked 92 is a manual with everything there. I suppose I just need to bite the bullet and wade into it. Any help is greatly appreciated...

 

I really isn't that hard with all the parts. it can be a bit time consuming getting the front end parts lined up nice and straight though. I would still swap pedals and cut the hole in the floor before swapping a good cab out.

 

I have done several auto to NV4500 swaps. I have done two cab swaps.
1. I would much rather mess with hanging the pedals, popping out the rubber plug, bolting in the slave bracket, using two self tapping screws hang the reservoir, twist in the slave and pin to the clutch pedal, shave the shift lever off the auto column and use the 5spd covers to look completely stock on an auto steering column, and drill a hole in the floor for the tranny shifter.
2. Than swap a complete cab. Its a lot of work to swap a cab. It sounds simple to unhook the bulkhead wiring, RWAL harness, hyd brake lines and e-brake cable, grille, fenders, inner fenders, hood, cowl and steering shaft. Then unbolt the four cab bolts. Then (the way I do it) use a long home made 10" wide fork attachment on the front of our 580CK backhoe "with the windows down" carefully run the fork through the doors and slowly/carefully raise the cab from the frame. Then in full reverse to complete the swap!

Again having done both I can tell you I would much rather do #1.

 

Thanks guys. I believe I will attempt to swap what I have without a new cab.

 

That is the way to go unless the cab is in really bad shape. let us know if you run into any snags.

 

10-4 on what FreightTrain said. I did a complete swap from auto to manual, and I have swapped cabs onto different frames. The cab swap is definitely the more complicated of the two.

A word of advise to save you some aggravation is don't break open the hydraulic clutch system. Unbolt the clutch master from the donor firewall and the slave from the bellhousing and remove and install them as unit, without draining the fluid. That will save you at least and hour of your time.