3200 spring help
 

Ok so i bought and installed my gauges from shied diesel and ordered the 3200 spring also. Well went to install it and cant get the back right(closes to the block) screw out of the pump to take the top off. How in hell do you get to that. I've tried everything was gonna loosen the pump and let it fall towards the wheel well but cant get to the bottom bolt on it so I'm really frustrated right now [verymad] and would be very thankful for any help on this. The cut down allen key dont work because i cant get enough torque on it. But on a good note I ground my fuel pin; I still need to tweak with the other adjustment to get them just right but i'm impressed so far. Oh and I was wondering what temp yall are runnin with overdrive trannies? Thanks again Andrew

Try removing the throttle cable bracket to give yourself a little more room to swing the long arm of the allen wrench. Once it is broken loose I used a ball end allen wrench easily.

As for the lower pump bolt to rotate the pump, I used a 3/8 ratchet and a crows foot to loosen/tighten it. PITA but doable.

Hope this helps.

Marc

do yourself a favor and get a 13mm "S" wrench or buy a cheap one and make your own. I cut a cheapo in half and welded it back at an angle. that way you can loosen the pump, retard the timing, and make it easier to get the top off.

Thanks guys I'll try them here and let yall know i'm just not looking forward to tearing it all back down again some of this stuff is a PITA!!! Thanks again

It also helps to cut down the short end of the allen wrench, mine is now about half the length it was. Makes it much easier to slip in there. DO NOT be tempted to break it loose with the ball end allen wrench, those screws are soft and will strip.

Pulling off the throttle bracket (3 bolts) and retarding the timing all the way really improve access to the pump. But if you want to make it really easy, pull the cylinder head off. [eyecrazy][laugh]

Well I was gonna highly suggest he use a ball end allen wrench. I love them. I've removed pump tops on two pumps now with the T-handle metric ball end allens I bought from Sears (Craftsman) with no troubles. Don't even have to remove the low idle screw either:).

After stripping the one on 92Diesel's truck I am reluctant to advise others to do the same.

Thanks wannadiesel... I know this my sound stupid but i'm still a rookie how do i retard the timing and do you bump or retard the timing for performance? Thanks

Timing Bump (advance) - Push pump top towards the head.
Retard timing- Push pump top away from head. Gives you access to work on it.

And don't forget to put it back when the pump is put back together. [laugh]

Is there a sticky on the timing cause a loosend the three front bolts and the one back one and the pump didnt move at all?

here's a pic of the wrench you will need to get to bottom nut its one I made. mark the stock pump location then move the pump away from the head and take it apart. then put it back or advance it a little. If you have POD's push it all the way to the head. also some pics of the back of the pump so you can see whats going on back there. also mark your linkage on the top of the pump to get it back right. also it is easyer to mark the full power screw and then back it out almost all the way so that the top goes back on easyer then reset it. to get the pump to turn brake the injector lines lose from the pump and there is a bolt at the bottom of the pump closer to the cab that you have to loosen. its in the last pic. its goes in the slot at the bottom

AFC line will stop it from moving. Take it off, Move the pump then reinstall the AFC line. You'll have to bend it a little.

Use a ratchet strap.