1992 speedometer & turbo?
Hey everyone
I started a new forum. I forgot but while my friend was driving the truck home from mass i noticed the speedometer was roughly 20mph off. Although the truck came from canada and the speedo is in kilometers it also says miles. My dad was following and the truck said thirty five when my dad was doing 55 right behind us at a constant distance is it possible to fix this without ripping the dash apart also i checked my turbo it is the 21 size
thanks justin
I started a new forum. I forgot but while my friend was driving the truck home from mass i noticed the speedometer was roughly 20mph off. Although the truck came from canada and the speedo is in kilometers it also says miles. My dad was following and the truck said thirty five when my dad was doing 55 right behind us at a constant distance is it possible to fix this without ripping the dash apart also i checked my turbo it is the 21 size
thanks justin
Sounds like the ratio adapter is missing and the VSS is screwed straight into the transfer case. Crawl under the truck and take a look, if there's not a funky looking 90 degree piece with a grease fitting between the VSS and the transfer case, that's your problem. Get the right ratio adapter from your dealer and install it, no dash disassembly required. 
If you are keeping the stock injectors, a 12 cm wastegated housing (or a whole HX-35) will really wake the truck up.

If you are keeping the stock injectors, a 12 cm wastegated housing (or a whole HX-35) will really wake the truck up.
Hi dave
i will take a look at that in the daylight and get back to you
about the turbo what is the difference b/w wastegated and non wastegated the 12cm wastegated is 500 and the non wastegated is 235 i do plan on towing with the truck nothing too serious of a load my truck is a 5 speed rag so would i be best with a 12cm 14cm or 16cm also let me throw this at you
http://www.htturbo.com/thnew.htm
what if i went with new era 370 injectors left the pump stock and got the GDS 60mm Comp. Wheel upgrade i also don't want to have to do a head gasket any time soon and don't know much about egts or exhaust temp
just thinking have to go
Justin
i will take a look at that in the daylight and get back to you
about the turbo what is the difference b/w wastegated and non wastegated the 12cm wastegated is 500 and the non wastegated is 235 i do plan on towing with the truck nothing too serious of a load my truck is a 5 speed rag so would i be best with a 12cm 14cm or 16cm also let me throw this at you
http://www.htturbo.com/thnew.htm
what if i went with new era 370 injectors left the pump stock and got the GDS 60mm Comp. Wheel upgrade i also don't want to have to do a head gasket any time soon and don't know much about egts or exhaust temp
just thinking have to go
Justin
Hi dave
i will take a look at that in the daylight and get back to you
about the turbo what is the difference b/w wastegated and non wastegated the 12cm wastegated is 500 and the non wastegated is 235 i do plan on towing with the truck nothing too serious of a load my truck is a 5 speed rag so would i be best with a 12cm 14cm or 16cm also let me throw this at you
http://www.htturbo.com/thnew.htm
what if i went with new era 370 injectors left the pump stock and got the GDS 60mm Comp. Wheel upgrade i also don't want to have to do a head gasket any time soon and don't know much about egts or exhaust temp
just thinking have to go
Justin
i will take a look at that in the daylight and get back to you
about the turbo what is the difference b/w wastegated and non wastegated the 12cm wastegated is 500 and the non wastegated is 235 i do plan on towing with the truck nothing too serious of a load my truck is a 5 speed rag so would i be best with a 12cm 14cm or 16cm also let me throw this at you
http://www.htturbo.com/thnew.htm
what if i went with new era 370 injectors left the pump stock and got the GDS 60mm Comp. Wheel upgrade i also don't want to have to do a head gasket any time soon and don't know much about egts or exhaust temp
just thinking have to go
Justin
With a stock pump, the GDS upgrade and 370's, I think you should be just fine towing what you want to tow. You may have to take a peek at the EGT gauge up a long grade, but other than that it should be fine.
You might also want to think about opening the exhaust system up. Go with a full 4" system, I have heard reports of up to a 150* EGT reduction at WOT.
Since you will be towing a little, I would go with the 16cm housing. The 12cm is a little restrictive, and not the best choice for towing. Since you have a 21cm, even the 16cm housing will really wake the truck up.
When are you going to get some pics of the truck for us Justin? We want to see your beast.
Hey i can't find my camera at the moment. But soon i will have pictures she doesnt look too good right now but when im through with her this summer she will hopefully look nice the left rocker pannel i have to patch and i'm going to put 2 new fenders on it becuase there so cheap and the ones on it are dented i need to buy a bed and sell the utility body i have on it
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Hey 91 1st gen what are you in college- im a junior in high school no brandon i think thats your name from other forums i looked at but i havent ordered gauges yet first i am going to do all the body work i need to do and paint the truck then im gonna start fooling with the engine and stuff
this is for dave(wannadiesel) i just crawled under the truck there is and electrical plug that goes directly into the transfercase which is located right by the drive shaft - is that what you were talking about because there is no funky looking think @ a 90 degree with a greese fitting - any idea how much a ratio adapter may cost
thanks justin
okay plans to do to the truck
-remove bed, bumpers, fuel tank, and fenders
-repack front bearings
-kill the kdp with the kit and put on new valve cover gaskets for the hell of it
-change all fluids antifreeze, motor, tranny with 5 30 royal purple i think it was, transfer case, possible differential
-steam clean, degrease powerwash entire truck
-clean frame whether it be blasting, by hand with a needle scaler
-paint it
-fix left rocker panel
-now i will put new fenders on and paint the cab and bed (if i find one) also i will most likely paint the door jams and inside cab
-put on new bumpers because the ones i have are junk
-16x6 mickey thompson wheels
after the truck is done providing how much money i have
-get gauges
-4" exhaust
-new era 370 injectors
-upgrade turbo whether it be a hx35, dodgezilla, or stock turbo with 16cm housing and 60cm upgrade
tell me what you think
thanks Justin
this is for dave(wannadiesel) i just crawled under the truck there is and electrical plug that goes directly into the transfercase which is located right by the drive shaft - is that what you were talking about because there is no funky looking think @ a 90 degree with a greese fitting - any idea how much a ratio adapter may cost
thanks justin
okay plans to do to the truck
-remove bed, bumpers, fuel tank, and fenders
-repack front bearings
-kill the kdp with the kit and put on new valve cover gaskets for the hell of it
-change all fluids antifreeze, motor, tranny with 5 30 royal purple i think it was, transfer case, possible differential
-steam clean, degrease powerwash entire truck
-clean frame whether it be blasting, by hand with a needle scaler
-paint it
-fix left rocker panel
-now i will put new fenders on and paint the cab and bed (if i find one) also i will most likely paint the door jams and inside cab
-put on new bumpers because the ones i have are junk
-16x6 mickey thompson wheels
after the truck is done providing how much money i have
-get gauges
-4" exhaust
-new era 370 injectors
-upgrade turbo whether it be a hx35, dodgezilla, or stock turbo with 16cm housing and 60cm upgrade
tell me what you think
thanks Justin
The ratio adapter should be around $75.
I would put a used 12 cm wastegated housing on. It really wakes the truck up and will run well with the stock injectors turned up or small performance injectors and a stock pump. Don't buy a new one, used ones show up in the classifieds and on Ebay and should cost less than $150 shipped.
The compressor upgrade is a good idea too, but change the turbine housing first or at the same time. The 21 cm is laggy enough as it is without putting a bigger compressor on it.
I would put a used 12 cm wastegated housing on. It really wakes the truck up and will run well with the stock injectors turned up or small performance injectors and a stock pump. Don't buy a new one, used ones show up in the classifieds and on Ebay and should cost less than $150 shipped.
The compressor upgrade is a good idea too, but change the turbine housing first or at the same time. The 21 cm is laggy enough as it is without putting a bigger compressor on it.
Hey 91 1st gen what are you in college- im a junior in high school no brandon i think thats your name from other forums i looked at but i havent ordered gauges yet first i am going to do all the body work i need to do and paint the truck then im gonna start fooling with the engine and stuff
this is for dave(wannadiesel) i just crawled under the truck there is and electrical plug that goes directly into the transfercase which is located right by the drive shaft - is that what you were talking about because there is no funky looking think @ a 90 degree with a greese fitting - any idea how much a ratio adapter may cost
thanks justin
okay plans to do to the truck
-remove bed, bumpers, fuel tank, and fenders
-repack front bearings
-kill the kdp with the kit and put on new valve cover gaskets for the hell of it
-change all fluids antifreeze, motor, tranny with 5 30 royal purple i think it was, transfer case, possible differential
-steam clean, degrease powerwash entire truck
-clean frame whether it be blasting, by hand with a needle scaler
-paint it
-fix left rocker panel
-now i will put new fenders on and paint the cab and bed (if i find one) also i will most likely paint the door jams and inside cab
-put on new bumpers because the ones i have are junk
-16x6 mickey thompson wheels
after the truck is done providing how much money i have
-get gauges
-4" exhaust
-new era 370 injectors
-upgrade turbo whether it be a hx35, dodgezilla, or stock turbo with 16cm housing and 60cm upgrade
tell me what you think
thanks Justin
this is for dave(wannadiesel) i just crawled under the truck there is and electrical plug that goes directly into the transfercase which is located right by the drive shaft - is that what you were talking about because there is no funky looking think @ a 90 degree with a greese fitting - any idea how much a ratio adapter may cost
thanks justin
okay plans to do to the truck
-remove bed, bumpers, fuel tank, and fenders
-repack front bearings
-kill the kdp with the kit and put on new valve cover gaskets for the hell of it
-change all fluids antifreeze, motor, tranny with 5 30 royal purple i think it was, transfer case, possible differential
-steam clean, degrease powerwash entire truck
-clean frame whether it be blasting, by hand with a needle scaler
-paint it
-fix left rocker panel
-now i will put new fenders on and paint the cab and bed (if i find one) also i will most likely paint the door jams and inside cab
-put on new bumpers because the ones i have are junk
-16x6 mickey thompson wheels
after the truck is done providing how much money i have
-get gauges
-4" exhaust
-new era 370 injectors
-upgrade turbo whether it be a hx35, dodgezilla, or stock turbo with 16cm housing and 60cm upgrade
tell me what you think
thanks Justin

I like that you want to fix the actual problems before you start doing any engine modding, it shows you have a respect for these trucks, which most Juniors don't. The KDP is one of the most important things you can do on a 12 Valve.
Like Dave said, you don't have to buy a new housing, used ones show up in the classfields all the time. I got my 16cm housing on here for $100 plus shipping, but you will need to get the gaskets. Brian is getting mine, and said they would be about $10-15.
You may be able to get away with a 12cm housing and still be able to tow what you want, but I would leave a little wiggle room in case you need to tow something a lot heavier, and the 12cm would get too hot. All the people that tow heavy, say the 16cm is the way to go. But if you don't see yourself towing realy heavy in the foreseeable future, a 12cm housing would be fine.
Hey if you are a little iffy about which housing get the 14cm2 that way you got in between and still have some room to grow. I got the 16cm2 and it helped a lot but I think if you don't tow a extremely lot go with the 14cm2 and you won't have to worry about EGT's getting toasty when you do tow. But if you pull a lot like me I think the the 16cm2 is well matched for towing and a cranked pump



